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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 41
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Rap anchors on Taipan

Organ Pipe
7:07:40 PM
Just curious about rap anchors along the top of Taipan wall, and distances from them to ground (as in are there any 2 x 50m rope opportunities, or will I need 2 x 60m).

I'm after a nice arvo rap off Seventh Pillar, although I assume that this part of the wall is too high for 2 x 60's.

Appreciate any usefull beta to save me from a big walk off : )

Thanks, Ben.

Edward Sillypants
7:15:13 PM
Ummm, my understanding is that you run out the top half of the last pitch on Typan, so you can leap off and power plummet back to the previous belay zone , there by saving at least one abseil ...

Organ Pipe
7:18:59 PM
Welcome back and goodbye.

Edward Sillypants
7:28:38 PM
>Appreciate any usefull beta to save me from a big walk off : )

OK ... then ...a course in base-jumping might beta what ur looking for , yeah ?

Hope this helps ;-)

7:32:42 PM
G,day Ben, you can walk left (faceing the cliff) to one of three rap anchors, personally I have always
used the ones above Clean Sweep, but only cos It's a single rap, the other closer stations might need to
hit a station midway down the wall, they are above The great Devide and another above father Oblivion.

Edward Sillypants
7:44:01 PM
HA HA !!! :D


Organ Pipe
9:30:14 PM
Awesome, thanks Bomber. I'll head for Clean Sweep. Will I be right with twin 50's?

10:14:41 PM
Yeah, double 50's are fine, but if you are thinking of doing the 7th then take at least 3 # 1 RP's for the aid
out the roof flake after the second belay! crucial gear as everything else is too big, that and plenty of
slings to leave on the bolts for your second and you to aid through on! no other gear essential, maybe
some bigger cams for the horizontal pitch might be nice, but not crucial. have a good one this is a really
fun day out. BP
9:40:58 AM
Don't recall many 1RPs on that section, but the crack swallowed some #2s.

Organ Pipe
10:21:51 AM
I've got 3 x each size from 3 to 10, but only 1 x size 1 and 1 x size 2, so maybe a trip to Little Bourke at lunch is in order (always love an excuse to go and shop for gear).
8:05:39 PM
On 19/09/2007 gfdonc wrote:
>Don't recall many 1RPs on that section, but the crack swallowed some #2s.
It's an expanding flake. Do it when it's cold and it might take the #2 RPs rather than the #1s

Edward Sillypants
8:25:34 PM
interesting ... you sure you got that around the right way ?
8:30:28 PM

Edward Sillypants
8:35:22 PM

Thanks BIG K !!

u no I respect your ... ummm ......................................... anyway ... THANKS !!!

Chuck Norris
11:05:09 PM
On 19/09/2007 kieranl wrote:
>On 19/09/2007 gfdonc wrote:
>>Don't recall many 1RPs on that section, but the crack swallowed some
>It's an expanding flake. Do it when it's cold and it might take the #2
>RPs rather than the #1s

at the risk of disrupting this hijacked thread with a serious that a water thing?
11:44:40 PM
Thermal. Rock expands when hot, contracts when cold. Maybe my conclusion is wrong but my experience is that gear jammed in a flake on a hot afternoon usually pulls out easily in the cool of the morning. And the flakes on Seventh Pillar move. Almost thirty years ago I recovered a hex that had been squashed and then dropped out of Seventh Pillar. So, I'd do prefer to do Seventh Pillar in cool weather.
But I'm quite happy for someone to tell me why I'm wrong with my theory.

11:48:33 PM
Thats right, when I did the 7th it was a hot day and we did the climb in full sun, hence #1 RP's
11:52:33 PM
**Snap** thanks Bomber
12:34:14 AM
it was pretty cold when I did it & I remember using both #1 & #2 RPs. I'd say take a couple #1 regardless, they don't weigh much.

Organ Pipe
9:22:43 AM
I picked up an additional number 1 and number 2 yesterday at lunch.
Hopefully this'll be enough.

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There are 41 messages in this topic.


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