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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 42
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Hollow Mountain & Surrounds (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Cave Cliff & The Sun Deck Development
9:58:03 AM
Good Day to you all,

just a quick note to promote an existing area that's seen a lot of development recently. There are a bunch of good fun steep sports routes (most of which are only about 15m long) in the 18-20 grade range at the Sun Deck (which due to it's steepness stays dry in light rain). The routes are equipped with abseil staions just below the top so you can easily rap off without getting wet.

The main wall at Cave Cliff sports some fantastic routes in the 23-24 department which are also fully bolted and have rap stations below the top. This wall can be climbed in heavy rain.

We really enjoy climbing here and hope that a lot of others will also. This area is not far (10mins) from Stapylton:

The walking time is only 10 mins to Cave Cliff main wall and a further 5mins to the Sun Deck.

Details here:
10:19:39 PM
Love your work Joe.

Had a number of great weekends out in the sunshine at this crag. Still got some unfinished business there...

If anyone would like to check out some more pics of this crag go to the below link:
10:35:55 PM
I would suggest that belayers wear a helmet at The Sun Deck. There are a lot of loose holds.
12:28:09 AM
On 15/09/2007 kieranl wrote:
>I would suggest that belayers wear a helmet at The Sun Deck. There are
>a lot of loose holds.

8:15:44 AM
Hi All,

there is now a new cliff to add to this sport climbing mecca - a short but excellent steep orange cave, which now has enough well bolted sports routes on it to make it worth the 10min walk from the Sun Deck (total 25mins from car).

Details of the new area, called "The Sun Gate" can be found here:

*Please note there are currently 2 closed projects on this cliff.

Also... the project on the far RH side of the Sun Deck is now done, and open for business.

We hope you enjoy these offerings!
10:19:38 PM
A handful of pics of The Sun Gate can be viewed in the below gallery:

Unfortunately none of them taken when the cliff was in sun...
10:59:00 PM
Nice pics Steve!

Hey - how would you describe your freshly sent project at the far right hand side of the Sun Deck?
11:11:46 PM
Sent you a PM

4:09:55 PM
I had a ball climbing at Sun Deck last weekend.

Great work Joe.

Looking forward to checking out the new wall and the easier stuff on cave cliff soon (maybe the weekend after the long weekend).

The climbs are lovely and fun, bolts all look bomber. A few bits of loose rock, so helmets for the belayers are a good idea, but I'm sure it'll clean up pretty fast over the next few months.
7:56:04 PM
Hi Ben,

nice to meet you mate - and thanks very much for the positive comments - much appreciated.

We might see you up at The Sun Gate the weekend after the long weekend to deal with the outstanding projects (20 - Frank) and (25 - Andy, which I think will be done this weekend).

We're in the Vic Range this weekend if you're interested in joining us at any of these cliffs:
The Ruined Castle
The Far Pavilion
Emu Rock
The Flat Iron

which is where we hope to spend most of our time.


john s
1:35:37 PM
Hi Joe

Did you know there was already a route called Inca Trail at El Dorado in the Serra Range - though I think it had a lot of holds blown off in the 1996 fires and it would have had another roasting in 2006

7:27:26 PM
Let's see how many ascents the other (Serra Range) "Inca Trail" gets. I wonder how appropriate it is in it's surrounding area (is there a theme there with the route names like there is at the Sun Gate)?

Having said that, I'm happy to change the name if it's an issue. Could Call it temple full of gold instead?

7:42:33 PM
On 12/11/2007 jgoding wrote:
>Let's see how many ascents the other (Serra Range) "Inca Trail" gets. I
>wonder how appropriate it is in it's surrounding area (is there a theme
>there with the route names like there is at the Sun Gate)?
>Having said that, I'm happy to change the name if it's an issue. Could
>Call it temple full of gold instead?

Hi Joe,
Inca Trail at El Dorado is an utter classic. The best route on a great cliff. I'm sure it gets at least a few ascents.

7:51:24 AM
Thanks James & John,

I'll change the name to "Temple Full of Gold" then - for anyone who does not know the story, it goes like this...

The last of the Incan kings (Atahuallpa) was captured by the Spanish and ransomed for a temple full of gold. The Incans delivered the gold as promised. The Spanish killed the King anyway.

Or perhaps something like "Koricancha" (Sun Temple) or "Tumi" a sharp ceremonial golden knife (the top is like a knife blade flake and is pretty sharp) might be better?
8:02:23 AM
FYI I've had some comments about Conquistador needing an independent rap station (currently it shares
one with the 2 routes to the right) to assist in easier cleaning of the route (we had someone second the
route). I'm happy to add one next time I'm in that way.

There have also been a few comments re some loose rock at the start of Tumi which a bit of glue should
sort out, so I'll do that next time I'm in there too.

It sounds like the new route on the far right hand side of the Sun Deck (Holy Human Fly) could do with
some more cleaning, so if you're in there before this is done take care - you might encounter a little loose

PS I have added a few pics (thanks to Steve Bright!) and a photo-topo for The Sun Gate - you can check
it out here:

If anyone else has any suggestions / comments let me know.

12:01:07 PM
I'm heading up to The Sun Deck for an explore soon and have downloaded the guide - excellent work all round.
I've got one question though, the guide talks about a climb that I haven't been able to place - Dr Woodrue, is this the same as Commisioner Gordon?

9:51:52 PM
Hi Simon,

hope you enjoy your visit. We might see you there on Sunday. Yep correct - Dr Jason Woodrue was commissioner Gordon's first name but dropped when I got a few comments it was a bit obscure. commissioner Gordon was felt to be more recognizable.

I'll fix up the guide...


8:23:11 AM
>I'm happy to change the name if it's an issue
>I'll change the name to "Temple Full of Gold" then


>Dr Woodrue, is this the same as Commisioner Gordon?
>Dr Jason Woodrue was commissioner Gordon's first name but dropped when (snip)

I am glad to see that the naming of a route is able to be a flexible process.
The whole concept of making a route is a bit like art and sometimes the concept is obvious while at other times subtle.
It is the artists concept the whole time though (!); and if their feelings/preference takes a little while to settle on a name then so be it; ... whether they seek feedback from others or not during this evolution.

In this vein as another example from a while ago on this site (*careful: thread hijack warning!*), when I heard that some people were not in favour of changing the temporary name of 'Gummy Bears are Go' to the final name of 'Jens Roof', I was quite disappointed at that attitude; as in my opinion the creator of the route should have the final say in what it is called.

If a change of name is desired by the 1st ascentionist/s this should be respected as they no doubt have a valid reason to do so.
10:44:00 PM
Howdy M9,

glad you're happy with a big of flexibility about route names.

May I add that one of the reasons I think flexibility is required is due to a lack of knowledge of these other routes and areas with the same name, in this case my own I'm happy to acknowledge.

I was kindly reminded by a certain very experienced infamous climber today that if I should happen to have all of the old rock magazines, all of the old Arguses and every single guidebook ever published to the Grampians it should have been very apparent to me that these route names were already taken, and hence the confusion could have been avoided. That would assume that I could be bothered to read all of them and cross reference the lot. I would like to point out that this is simply unreasonable.

Now I would like to pass on the same message that I passed on to this very experienced climber in much the same fashion: Not everyone reads rock. Personally rock is OK, but I prefer CRUX. I certainly don't have every single back copy and think it's ridiculous to start getting peeved that I haven't personally checked every single new route write up before choosing a name for a new route of mine. I would also like to point out that a lot of people submit their new routes to Argus, not Rock. Some people simply keep note of their new routes but don't actually submit them for publication. Some now choose to publish them on the fantastic new on-line guide by the Australian Climbing Association: by the way.

May I humbly suggest that it would be more pragmatic to put effort into making this fantastic resource / opportunity (The Australian Climbing Association website on-line guide) complete and comprehensive rather than bitch about duplication of area or climb names.

If each of us could simply take the time to get a logon/password and put in say 10 routes we could be a lot further down the track of having this guide be complete.

There have been so many instances of new routes being old routes, and things being duplicated.

While I do go to some trouble to verify that a route I think is new I would suggest that you can only do what is "fair and reasonable" (which granted varies from person to person about their interpretation).

Anyway - my point is that it would be great if the general climbing community could assist with contributing to the success of this fantastic on-line guide so that it can be an easily maintained, totally comprehensive on-line guide to every route done in the Grampians, Arapiles, Buffalo and everywhere else in Australia.

What say you climbing community? Willing to lend a hand?

9:38:17 AM
Furthing the Monteith vision of a palm pilot, a wiki and a wireless connection. I'm in.

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There are 42 messages in this topic.


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