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Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles The Organ Pipes (General) Organ Pipes Gully [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Jens Roof 30m 18

12:20:31 PM
Hi, I've just put up a new route with roof climbing at grade 18 on the Organ Pipes, just two meters right
of Dirge, it heads up the right arete of a small buttress directly under the roof on small wires & RP's,
then blasts diagonaly up left through a nice overhang then headwall to the rap station.
The climb is about 30m and was lead ground up onsight on trad, but looking at it more closely after the
fact, I've decided that it was too run out and the gear too small to be a safe lead for those who are
pushing at that grade.
So I will be placing a bolt just at the roof moves to make up for the tiny gear down under you to let
everyone be able to lead this in relative safety and enjoyment.
Also placing a rap station to cut down traffic on the Tannin and Hornpiece stations and stop anyone
throwing a rope down incase of a Tannin leader underneath (difficult to see at the Tannin rap)
I will try to do this work today if I can, I hope every one enjoys this new climb and think it's a good
addition to the pipes as there is not alot of good roof climbing at this grade

1:20:57 PM
Sounds like fun.

So can you access the rap easily from the top of the first pitch of dirge? I can't picture it at the moment. If it does, it might give Dirge another star for removing the second easy pitch through the crap rock and bushes.
9:12:32 PM
We repeated this on the weekend and it was fun. The really interesting thing is that it has less than 10 metres of new climbing and incorporates sections of three other climbs but is better than any of those.
To me the published descriptions don't make much sense because they don't refer to Bass Clef which is essentially what you are on for the first half of the climb. Bass Clef is the chimney 3 metres right of Dirge. Essentially Gummy Bears climbs up into the base of the chimney then onto the face on the left and up the rib on the left edge of the chimney. If you are so inclined you can easily bridge across the chimney at a couple of points - just do what seems obvious, it doesn't affect the grade. If you have double ropes you can use a crack on the right side of the chimney to supplement the wires on the left side. The roof is the business and a real hoot. Crank out left, clip the bolt and motor on. The bolt is where my old route Low Note comes in from the left.
This is a good climb. I thought the Low Note finish was good but it didn't make a good overall climb. This climb does.
The bonus is that the rap anchor serves both this and Dirge and it's not a top-rope anchor for either.
Post-edit : forgot to mention the third climb : Humouresque. GB shares the first few metres with this climb which is one of the worst at Arapiles.

1:15:38 PM
Hi Kieran, Thanks for the great review, I'm changing the name to "Jens roof" as it was jen who pointed
out the roof, asking if there were any climbs going through it, when I said not to my knowledge, jen was
very interested in checking it out, everybody who climbs it says they had a great time, so I think that this
will become popular with those looking for a good roof climb at 18.

Cool Hand Lock
9:59:37 PM
Nice one man.

10:36:56 PM
Cheers cool hand, I have been told more than once it's fantastic and should get two stars! jens amazing!
I'll have to take her out to scope more fantastic lines for us to climb on, she really has an eye for climbs.
9:30:51 AM
On 12/08/2007 bomber pro wrote:
>I have been told more than once it's fantastic and should get two stars!

Get your hand off it Bomber. There is no way it is worth two stars. But it does scrape in at one star.

9:36:03 PM
exellent! glad to see it make the new guide book, hows that going by the way ? any projected dates for
printing ?
9:49:25 PM
I believe the Arapiles coffee table book will be out (november 3rd launch) before the Guide.
10:40:40 PM
I've given up on giving estimates on when the guide will be finished. I would say there is a far better chance of Nod's coffee table book to Araps being finished before ours.

11:09:19 PM
Be ready when its ready i guess, no sense rushing things, ppl can wait.

1:32:20 PM
On 13/08/2007 simey wrote:
>I've given up on giving estimates on when the guide will be finished.
IdraM9 wrote a while ago
>and the new edition is due out at end of 2007, 2008, 2009!
Heh, heh, heh.

~ ~ ~
Post edit.
Re the new user ID, this is not a troll post.
I thought I'd tweek my user ID a little to keep a connection to my past one/s ...

~ ~ ~
(pre-emptive retro edit foracertaintroll) ...
iehDehlpewbu!^em <~ **X3H370HSSV-0773H**

1:37:22 PM
before or after Mick Hamptons Vic Range guide? :-)
8:58:50 PM
Or the very select - Best of Victorian Climbing?

Here is the route line FYI

Fish Boy
6:45:44 PM
Dalai's Melbourne Bouldering Guide?

Dan na man
3:01:34 PM
Jens Roof is a terrific climb and an excellent intro to climbing roofs with juggy holds through out the roof.

Definatly worth checking out. And worth a few stars too!

8:43:22 PM
Cheers for the positive review Dan na man, I'm glad you had a good time on it, and think all the extra
traffic on it will help get the moss off the start and make it even better ! BP

There are 17 messages in this topic.


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