Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Edelrid: "Ultralight Helmet" (Turquoise) Mid blue .Fits 54 - 60cm Great heavy duty all-rounder. SUPER SPECIAL for a short time only!  $79.00
21% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) The Cathedral [ Cathedral Guide ] 

Author
Bloodknok

climbau
18/04/2004
7:27:28 PM
I jumped on bloodknok (17) the other day and got totally spanked!!!!
Is it just my poor technique or is it just a buffalo sandbag?

oweng
19/04/2004
7:56:10 AM
This sounds like a familiar tale! To me the couple of moves around the rooflet at 3/4 height are the crux and feel a grade or two harder. If I recall correctly I backed of the lead at the rooflet, but got up it ok seconding. It felt harder than 17 to me, but the rest of the route was a bit easier and protection was ok at the crux, so maybe 17 is about right?.
James
19/04/2004
9:41:06 AM
I though it was pretty ok for Buffalo. Perhaps even soft as there is actually really good gear all the way up....Araps-style sinker wires & no enforced runouts anywhere. The crux roof requires solid jamBing techniques, but the rest is fine.

climbau
20/04/2004
12:35:06 PM
I just felt really insecure even after aiding past the roof. Guess I just need to dial in my technique a bit more.
Thanks for your responses
Andrew

Paulie
29/04/2004
1:35:07 AM
It's not too bad and pretty much spot on for the grade, on the plus side, the friction is good...maybe a little too good...

Have you been on Wicked Solitaire? That's another good solid Buffalo 17 ;)

jono
29/04/2004
10:02:45 AM
i agree with you owen and james. the rooflet is definitely the crux but either side of this i felt the climbing was fairly graded at 17. the crack line takes as much gear as you can throw at it so it's really safe. crux involves a good jam to make an awkward side move around a bulge to gain the prominent line. it's an awesome climb. last pitch of wicked solitaire is deinitely a must too!
kieranl
23/05/2004
10:37:57 PM
I think that I plugged a runner up in the roof and then laid away up the arete avoiding the crux jams.

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints