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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Buffalo (General) (General) The Cathedral [ Cathedral Guide ] 


7:27:28 PM
I jumped on bloodknok (17) the other day and got totally spanked!!!!
Is it just my poor technique or is it just a buffalo sandbag?

7:56:10 AM
This sounds like a familiar tale! To me the couple of moves around the rooflet at 3/4 height are the crux and feel a grade or two harder. If I recall correctly I backed of the lead at the rooflet, but got up it ok seconding. It felt harder than 17 to me, but the rest of the route was a bit easier and protection was ok at the crux, so maybe 17 is about right?.
9:41:06 AM
I though it was pretty ok for Buffalo. Perhaps even soft as there is actually really good gear all the way up....Araps-style sinker wires & no enforced runouts anywhere. The crux roof requires solid jamBing techniques, but the rest is fine.

12:35:06 PM
I just felt really insecure even after aiding past the roof. Guess I just need to dial in my technique a bit more.
Thanks for your responses

1:35:07 AM
It's not too bad and pretty much spot on for the grade, on the plus side, the friction is good...maybe a little too good...

Have you been on Wicked Solitaire? That's another good solid Buffalo 17 ;)

10:02:45 AM
i agree with you owen and james. the rooflet is definitely the crux but either side of this i felt the climbing was fairly graded at 17. the crack line takes as much gear as you can throw at it so it's really safe. crux involves a good jam to make an awkward side move around a bulge to gain the prominent line. it's an awesome climb. last pitch of wicked solitaire is deinitely a must too!
10:37:57 PM
I think that I plugged a runner up in the roof and then laid away up the arete avoiding the crux jams.

There are 7 messages in this topic.


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