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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 43
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All TAS (General) (General) (General)  

Federation Peak, Tas

7:19:49 PM
A more sensible (enjoyable) winter Tas mountain trip would be to head to the Overland Track area. There are empty huts to stay in. More snow cover. And more importantly, there are bridges over the creeks. Even so, crossings can be tricky. We waded 100m across Forth River last winter, but the bridge made it possible. In the South West, you could be completele stopped by floods for weeks, and either not get to your objective, or not get home.

James Mc

8:16:05 PM
what's the ice-climbing like at Mt Anne? ...I've heard is pretty good winter climbing, but wondered whether others may have more recent winter experiences there...

master of drung
12:54:14 PM
have been way down south in winter, a longish rope for belaying across rivers almost essential
10:20:02 PM
Mate - I had a look - I emailed Jon Nermut who gave me Grant Dixon's contact email:
I havea number for him, but look up his email, or through jon, and it'll get to you, he was most helpful to me.

3:23:36 PM
i seem to remember that a group went down and did blade ridge and the approach to the cliff was a problem near vertical grass and vegatioin until rock was reached can't remember exactly who the climbers were maybe ed neave, hugh foxcroft,peter megens , peter martin, peter treby chris baxter was with them but didn't climb . see if i can find the article if i still have it late 70 early 80
10:50:00 PM
The team of Reg Marron , Keith Egerton & John Croker went in to Fed Pk in Feb 1977. They climbed Blade ridge (about 6 pitches of 17 + up the front of the first blade, then easier up & over the blades) followed by the NW face direct route (straight up the crack), with Keith leading the overhang pitch (18). This was the second ascent of Blade Ridge (1st by Dave Nielsen's team in 1968) & FA of the direct NW face (we thought the 'easier' original route looked a bit too hard!)
Lyle Closs
8:45:21 AM
The original route is great fun, including the chimney through the overhang which gives fantastic exposure between your legs. The bit where your feet are on what amounts to polished marble is the most memorable bit, though it isn't hard. No-one has ever been able to repeat the guy on the first ascent who struggled up the inside of the chimney, thus avoiding the worst of the exposure.
G'day John. :-)

10:04:54 AM
I am really impressed how the camaraderie of the rope extends beyond the time of establishment (of experience/climb); across years, different countries, different generations etc.

The names and dates on this thread is testament to a very special place indeed, that has engendered (through endeavour), a kinship that is equally special.

Indeed; as someone once said,
>"Adventure has no destination."

... for it appears to me that the journey still continues in the vehicle of camaraderie.
Little did any of us realise the gift that climbing is to us when we first took it up!
Trent Williams
4:05:08 PM
When was the last time someone climbed Blade Ridge and the NW face?

1:56:03 PM
On 29/07/2004 oweng wrote:
>Here is a link to the old Federation Peak guide book:
>I've never been there, but have heard the walk in is pretty hard work
>(and would be more so with a pack full of climbing gear).....
>Also Climberman, May would be far from ideal for climbing in that part
>of Tassie. Short days, and a high likelyhood of snow. Could be very 'charactor

Apologies for accessing a very old thread, however the link in this post is no longer operative.
Does anyone else have a link to the 'old Federation Peak guide book', or know where I can find a detailed walking / climbing map of the peak and its surrounds?


2:01:44 PM
Have you looked at thesarvo?

2:57:44 PM
Gerry's Best of Tassie print guide also has a section on Federation Peak.

3:01:56 PM
Friends climbed the Golden Diedre on the Bechervaise Face a couple of years ago and said it was well worth doing ... but like many of the posters above, I'd have to say that May isn't the time of year to be going in there to climb.
It was 33 in Hobart today (fantastic on the Organ Pipes this morning!) and the high at Scott's Peak was 24.5. The time is now!
9:58:34 PM
FYI, the only current guide for Federation is on thesarvo site: (
Blade Ridge/ NW Ridge was repeated a couple of years ago by Phil Robinson and Stu Scott (photos on thesarvo), and the last new route was Tolerance and Compromise on the Bechervaise Plateau Face (Anders Bown, Kate Snowball, Garn Cooper, 220m, 18) on 14 March 2009

“Winter” conditions can vary wildly, from torrential rain, gale force winds, snow, ice and freezing cold to relative warmth and sunshine – and all on the same day, even in summer.
Some additional info on general access and winter ascents is in FEDERATION: AUSTRALIA'S ADVENTURE PEAK by Kevin Doran, published in 2004, ISBN 0-9586935-1-X.
10:23:46 PM
I have a few photos if you are keen. also an article in Joe Friend's classic climb book. The tourist route to the top which climbs above Lake Geeves is quite exposed. we roped up for a short section. Didn't bother tho when we downclimbed after doing BR / NW face. Tas is like that.
10:28:01 PM
Karlyle is worth doing too. nice route. Dont' forget to take a cracker along with you (nice one Lyle)!
Mullet Man
12:26:23 PM
See the Climb Tasmania selected best guide which has a chapter and some photo topos on Federation
1:32:02 PM
Bump. Not much info out there on even the bushwalking routes.
2:19:17 PM
On 24/03/2016 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Bump. Not much info out there on even the bushwalking routes.

You serious? There is ample information on Federation including walking routes. Thesarvo is a wealth of knowledge...

A bit more googling and you'll find trip reports of walking and climbing. Walking routes are described in numerous guides.
2:54:20 PM
A bushwalker fell off it - looks like a pretty hazardous "scramble" is involved.

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