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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Northern Group (General) Kachoong Cliffs [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Protection on Kachoong

Organ Pipe
29/12/2006
11:37:22 AM
If you type "Kachoong" into Google Images you get a whole bunch of various climbers dangling from the roof flake.

I did this yesterday and I noticed something interesting about almost all of these images:
Climbers ropework seems to follow the following pattern in almost all of the photos. Rope travels up from belayer through a peice of pro 4ish meters from the roof, then travels diagonally up to another peice about half way out along the roof, then to the climber. I imagine that as they climbed to the beginning of the roof, where the wall meets it, they'd take a rest, gather their thoughts and place a nice juicy cam before heading out along the flake. Then once the mid roof placement was done, they'd undo the gear at the top of the wall to minimise rope drag. Or this is what it looks like based purely on the photos.

This puzzles me. There is absolutely no way that I'd head out along that flake with only one peice placed (the one in the centre of the roof) since half way up the wall. Why dont these climbers have a couple of cams stuck in the crack at the top of the wall extended by some long slings so that the path of the rope is unobstructed???

Is the peice in the centre of the roof a bolt?

muki
29/12/2006
12:21:49 PM
On 29/12/2006 Organ Pipe wrote:
>I did this yesterday>
>Is the peice in the centre of the roof a bolt?
If you did this route yesterday then why cant you remember that there are no bolts in the roof.
Why would you place a long runner at the top of the wall, that when loaded would come tight at the
placement that has already been made on the wall?.The placement in the roof is a piton, that can be
backed up by a #2 cam, both on long runners or just ignore the piton completely as I do, it just serves
as a rough guide for placing the gear so that if you come of at the lip of the roof then you swing past
the arete without hiting it. nobody I know has ever placed gear and then uncliped it before moving on.
the gear on the wall is great and the rest at the top is fine for reaching out to place gear for the roof
section.
the one photo I can think of that has an exesive run out is the shot of paul by simon .paul has done
this route many times and I'm sure that simon wanted the out there feel to the shot.

Organ Pipe
29/12/2006
12:42:09 PM
On 29/12/2006 bomber pro wrote:
>On 29/12/2006 Organ Pipe wrote:
>>I did this yesterday>
>>Is the peice in the centre of the roof a bolt?
>If you did this route yesterday then why cant you remember that there
>are no bolts in the roof.

Ha! Obviously I didn't do the climb yesterday.
What I did yesterday was type Kachoong into Google Images.
How on earth did you misinterpret that sentence?

gordoste
29/12/2006
1:17:40 PM
>On 29/12/2006 bomber pro wrote:
>How on earth did you misinterpret that sentence?

cue flamewar

BigMike
29/12/2006
1:36:05 PM
Cue friendly apologies for the misunderstanding?
Onsight
29/12/2006
1:37:56 PM
On 29/12/2006 bomber pro wrote:
>the one photo I can think of that has an exesive run out is the shot of
>paul by simon .paul has done
>this route many times and I'm sure that simon wanted the out there feel
>to the shot.

Actually the shot of Paul on Kachoong was taken by Glenn Tempest. I've just photographed Moss, Venus and Monique on it (I think). In all these shots they have more runners clipped. Just the one runner in the roof might give it a more "out there" feel - which was possibly OK for Paul given etc etc. Great photo anyway but I wouldn’t try to take too much beta from it. Incidentally it's possible to clip both the pin and a cam and make them look like the one runner. Personally I'd be sewing it up to the hilt...
simey
29/12/2006
3:11:04 PM
On 29/12/2006 Onsight wrote:
>Personally I'd be sewing it up to the hilt...

I agree. The photo on the back of our guide has always shitted me purely because Paul is cruising out along the roof with only the pin for protection. It gives people a misleading impression of how to approach Kachoong. I would rather he was soloing it if we wanted an 'out there' feel to the photo.

I'm not being critical of Paul. He was in total control and simply enjoying himself. We should have used a different photo.





WM
29/12/2006
3:32:10 PM
>Why would you place a long runner at the top of the wall, that when loaded would come tight at the placement that has already been made on the wall?

Your distances are way off bomb - as shown in the last photo on this page:
http://www.geocities.com/willmonks/northern_group.htm

The extended piece is what you place when you're at the rest at the top of the wall.

muki
29/12/2006
4:08:49 PM
On 29/12/2006 WM wrote:
Your distances are way of
well maybe if I led it the way you did! . But I get in more gear at the top of the initial wall than you
seemed to, judging by the photo you supplied Willy, the extended runner I mention is the one that Organ
was suggesting that he put in then unclip again, if you read my response you will no doubt find that I
have mentioned the long runners at the roof placed from the rest in the corner!

muki
29/12/2006
4:16:20 PM
On 29/12/2006 Organ Pipe wrote:Ha! Obviously I didn't do the climb yesterday.
well go and do the climb and stop all the googling about, you might find out all about the right gear and
where it goes!

muki
29/12/2006
4:17:39 PM
On 29/12/2006 BigMike wrote:
Cue friendly apologies for the misunderstanding?
Or what?.. get deleted!

muki
29/12/2006
4:29:19 PM
On 29/12/2006 gordoste wrote:cue flamewar
I did not write "How on earth did you misinterpret that sentence?"
are you infact trying to insight an argument, that would not be possible because Organ Pipe does not
know what he is talking about, as the closest he has ever come to doing the route is typing a google
search for it. therefore I will not be getting exited about anything he or you have to say on the subject.
as I sujested to him if he values the onsight then go for it and stop googling off.

BigMike
29/12/2006
4:33:37 PM
On 29/12/2006 bomber pro wrote:
>On 29/12/2006 BigMike wrote:
>Cue friendly apologies for the misunderstanding?
>Or what?.. get deleted!

Not by me. A previous poster had suggested that a flamefest might follow.

I was expressing hope that the misunderstanding would be easily and amicably cleared up.

Seems my hopes were misplaced, eh?
armyiain
29/12/2006
5:43:32 PM
BigMike, you are presuming that reasonable, rational people are involved. And that egos/pride aren't involved.....

muki
29/12/2006
6:32:48 PM
On 29/12/2006 armyiain wrote:
>BigMike, you are presuming that reasonable, rational people are involved.
> And that egos/pride aren't involved.....
I am both reasonable and rational AJ,but dont let that stop you from dissing me under the guise of having
somthing constructive to add

Eduardo Slabofvic
29/12/2006
6:49:46 PM
Kill the pig. Kill the pig. Kill the pig.
Dave C
29/12/2006
7:44:45 PM
On 29/12/2006 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>Kill the pig. Kill the pig. Kill the pig.

A brilliant late entry for "Chockstone Post of the Year", forum comedy of the highest calibre!

adski
29/12/2006
7:50:35 PM
Cams make you weak... of mind.

Personally I use and recommend a couple of opposed nuts in the roof flake(s) from the no hands head jam stance and then..

KACHOOOOONG!

(Apologies for thinking the discussion was somewhat about climbing. Much better flaming on Thorpedo's fan forums anyway)

BigMike
29/12/2006
8:00:18 PM
On 29/12/2006 StuckinLara wrote:
>On 29/12/2006 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>>Kill the pig. Kill the pig. Kill the pig.
>
>A brilliant late entry for "Chockstone Post of the Year", forum comedy
>of the highest calibre!

And a classical literary allusion to boot ....
gfdonc
29/12/2006
10:32:27 PM
Well I damn well placed a couple of cams to back up that pin.
http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=15&MessageID=221&Replies=16&PagePos=20&Sort=LastMessage


 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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