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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians (General) (General) (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Recommend me a long grampians adventure route
bones
5-Feb-2018
12:25:19 PM
Hey all,

I've got a weekend trip to the Grampians coming up and it'll be the first time away climbing without the kids for a while so I want to do a long adventure route. Ideally a nice (maybe remote?) setting but easy grade (sub 18). Thinking maybe a route near the Fortress (Quincas Borba, Henghist?), Chimney Pots (Catwalk or Ziggurat?) or maybe even Power Dive at Mt Abrupt. I can handle poor pro or dodgy rock but some decent climbing would be nice too.
I've done most of what I can climb at Mt Rosea and I guess it might be a bit hot for Assess Ears...

Thanks for any ideas..

shortman
5-Feb-2018
12:45:38 PM
Sword in the Stone, Mt Difficult. Pack balls.

JamesMc
5-Feb-2018
1:45:36 PM
Can't get longer than Red Tide at Pacific Ocean Wall

Rupert
5-Feb-2018
1:59:38 PM
Anything on the Asses Ears - you'll have it all to yourselves.
Or Queen Bee at Mount Difficult is also good.
gfdonc
5-Feb-2018
2:36:37 PM
Yeah James beat me to it. Hehe.

JamesMc
5-Feb-2018
4:47:44 PM
Actually there's a few good long routes at Mt Abrupt - The Fuchsia comes to mind. And have you done any of the routes around the left side of the track at Mt Rosea? Just asking because not a lot of people get around there. Stapylton Amphitheatre has a abundance of good routes. Simpleton is shady. Soma Crack at Chimney Pots is awesome but only 2 pitch. Probably 80m gr 14. The big stuff there is not so nice.



JamesMc
kieranl
5-Feb-2018
6:42:37 PM
Quincas Borba is a solid day out. I thought it was really good though it's nudging your grade upper limit. The really runout stuff isn't hard but it's no place to make a mistake - there was a serious accident there a few years ago.

It's in the shade until some time in the afternoon - can't remember the time. I have no idea what the approach to The Fortress from the west is like since the fires. Start as early as you can anyway.
bones
6-Feb-2018
2:13:18 PM
Thanks for the suggestions; I've done Simpleton, Sword in the stone and Queen bee, which were all great. Good call on the left side of Rosea, but I feel like a change of scenery.

If I can get my Forrester up the Victoria Range Road I guess I could cut some time off the walk in to the Fortress? Would love to scope it out and aid passport sometime soon. Thanks for the info on Quincas Borba; it's still tempting but my second might not be up for it if it looks too intimidating. Kieran what about Henghist? Is it worth a look too?

Hairy1
6-Feb-2018
6:09:32 PM
Green gap pinnacle? There's a nice route that's fairly long and grade 17ish called sweet sixteen

JamesMc
6-Feb-2018
6:46:04 PM
Have you actually done it Hairy1?
kieranl
6-Feb-2018
7:35:16 PM
I haven't done Henghist but I have my doubts about it. I have a vague memory of someone commenting adversely on it.

You could have a good day at the Chimney Pots by doing Soma Crack, then do John The Baptist to the first terrace. Rather than continue up the rather nasty top pitches, abseil down the hole to the descent downTwin Chimneys (or just descend Twin Chimneys from the gallery window without doing the short pitch to the first Terrace). That would be a good plan for a warm day as you'll be in the shade for the whole time.
Hairy1
6-Feb-2018
8:30:39 PM
Yes, hence the suggestion.
bones
7-Feb-2018
4:45:28 AM
Sounds good, thanks Kieran might give that a shot. Hairy1 hadn't heard of green gap pinnacle but looks interesting
gfdonc
7-Feb-2018
5:38:05 AM
Yes, Green Gap Pinnacle is another option. Contact me offline re: access beta and latest route descriptions.

There are 14 messages in this topic.

 

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