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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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Author
Which rope to bring?
Justanotherdirtbag
8/08/2017
4:15:40 PM
I'm planning to come to Oceania from Lake Tahoe in mid November and climb in Arapiles, Tasmania, New Zealand and the Blue Mountains. My current repertoire includes trad (single & multi pitch) up to 19/20 and sport up to 22. I was wondering which rope and what gear would be the most appropriate to bring for this trip. I'm not exactly pressed for time, and will probably want to climb all the classics within my ability range (which I will hopefully increase while I'm here).

1 - I'm debating between bringing a single 70m, a single 60m or a pair of doubles. In the Tahoe/Eastern Sierra/Yosemite region, it's always nice to have a 70m single, but I don't want to bring that if you never need those extra 10 meters of weight in the areas I listed above.

2 - Will I need to bother bringing any cams larger than a #3 BD Camalot?

3 - Any tips/beta for being in any of those areas and climbing partners are also appreciated!

Thanks!
gfdonc
8/08/2017
5:39:12 PM
1. I've never owned a 70m rope. For me, I'd bring the single 60m and a light second rope for long raps. If you prefer climbing on doubles, bring them.

2. That's the blue one? I would, but they weigh a bit. Mostly at Arapiles a blue is enough. You can always try to borrow a larger one when you need it (Watchtower crack).

3. Arapiles.
dan_b
9/08/2017
12:44:39 PM
1. 60m
2. I'd bring doubles of 0.4-1 over larger than 3
3. Araps. The gym in Hobart or thesarvo for Tasmania.
mikllaw
9/08/2017
1:28:24 PM
2. Climb with someone with a rack also, or borrow some off me.
3. There are a few hundred classics, how long are you coming for?
Trad- Arapiles and Gramps. Tassie is better after February. Pt Perp, Booroomba, Moonarie
Sport - Blue Mountains, Pt Perp, Nowra
Wendy
9/08/2017
2:21:11 PM
On 8/08/2017 Justanotherdirtbag wrote:
>I'm planning to come to Oceania from Lake Tahoe in mid November and climb
>in Arapiles, Tasmania, New Zealand and the Blue Mountains. My current
>repertoire includes trad (single & multi pitch) up to 19/20 and sport up
>to 22. I was wondering which rope and what gear would be the most appropriate
>to bring for this trip. I'm not exactly pressed for time, and will probably
>want to climb all the classics within my ability range (which I will hopefully
>increase while I'm here).

I hope you are really not pressed for time as that would include a few thousand routes ...

>
>1 - I'm debating between bringing a single 70m, a single 60m or a pair
>of doubles. In the Tahoe/Eastern Sierra/Yosemite region, it's always nice
>to have a 70m single, but I don't want to bring that if you never need
>those extra 10 meters of weight in the areas I listed above.

Araps and the gramps have lots of stuff you can do on a single 60, however the doubles are pretty nice for a few raps and long trad pitches. I almost never need the extra 10m. Double 50s would be long enough. Bring 2 single rated 9mms and have the best of both worlds.

I would imagine there are a few rap ins in the Blueys that the doubles would be needed for as well? Someone else could clarify if you need more than a single 60 to get into Pierces Pass and the like.

>
>2 - Will I need to bother bringing any cams larger than a #3 BD Camalot?

If you pick your climbs you won't, but if you want to do ALL the classics, then yes. I'd def bring double fingers-hands size cams and double set wires.
>
>3 - Any tips/beta for being in any of those areas and climbing partners
>are also appreciated!

If you don't have a car or climbing partners, start at araps. It's really the only place you can get to easily, camp at the base of and be assured of other climbers in the country. You might find it difficult to leave though.

ajfclark
9/08/2017
3:43:33 PM
On 9/08/2017 Wendy wrote:
>I'd def bring double fingers-hands size cams and double set wires.

Is that normal fingers-hands (eg #0.5 - #2) or your fingers-hands (eg #0.3-#0.75)? :-P

I got by for years and years on a single set of cams (#0.3 - #4, though the #3 and #4 did not get much work) and a double set of wires.
Wendy
9/08/2017
4:51:47 PM
On 9/08/2017 ajfclark wrote:
>On 9/08/2017 Wendy wrote:
>>I'd def bring double fingers-hands size cams and double set wires.
>
>Is that normal fingers-hands (eg #0.5 - #2) or your fingers-hands (eg
>#0.3-#0.75)? :-P

When you are me, all of the above!
>
>I got by for years and years on a single set of cams (#0.3 - #4, though
>the #3 and #4 did not get much work) and a double set of wires.

Long pitches and places that don't take wires as fabulously as araps do benefit from more cams - Frog, Blueys trad, Buffalo, point perp, Ben lomond, even moonarie. I somehow survived on a single set of cams once too. It involved a lot of down climbing to retrieve gear. I'm happy I have a lot more gear now.
johnpitcairn
10/08/2017
3:10:57 PM
A single 60m for NZ is totally sufficient unless perhaps you intend to grovel up to a lot of alpine rock, in which case I'd bring half 60s or a single/half combo rather than a 70. PM me if/when you are in the central north island and want to climb some trad. I can supply doubles of big cams, god help me.
justanotherdirtbag
11/08/2017
3:44:52 PM
Thanks so much for all the beta guys! I'm planning to arrive in Arapiles mid November (hopefully with a camper van) and climb until it is too hot (which is when I plan to escape to Tasmania + NZ). I was not planning to climb in the Grampians because I heard all of the classics are pretty hard, but after doing some research, I will most likely go climb there too.

I'm getting the feeling most people at the climbing areas will have a single rope, so maybe I should just bring my set of 8.5mm x 60m doubles and rely on a partner's single rope if the route calls for one, and supply the rack. I will have doubles of .3 to 3 and my friend in Tasmania tells me I should bring the #4.
johnpitcairn
11/08/2017
4:54:38 PM
Message me when you hit NZ, I'll have moved from Auckland to the Waikato and probably up for some trad at Waipapa, Kawakawa Bay, maybe Ruapehu.

There are 10 messages in this topic.

 

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