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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 46
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC All (General) (General) (General) [ Victoria Guide | Images ] 

Author
What are most common grip types at Gramps/Araps?
jacksonclimbs
2-Jul-2017
12:12:55 PM
So relatively new to Victoria and currently doing a bit of hangboard and bouldering training. Typically in the past I've prioritized grip type in training depending on the location I'm climbing at. Just wondering what locals think are the grip types most commonly encountered.

So far I've come across a lot more slopers at the Gramps than what I've seen at limestone style crags I've climbed at before. Conversely, I've not seen a whole lot of two finger pockets at the Gramps.

If I had to hazard a guess at the most common grips, based on my limited experience, I'd think, in order of most common to least common;

Edges
Crimps
Slopers
Pinches
Pockets

Keen to hear others thoughts on most commonly encountered grip types at these locations.
mitch46and2
2-Jul-2017
1:00:14 PM
the shaft grip is pretty popular in the pines these days
Olbert
2-Jul-2017
1:14:52 PM
I prefer jugs, myself.

JimmyS
3-Jul-2017
5:46:35 PM
I don't think training to a particular hold type is really worthwhile, as the Grampians alone is completely varied in geological formations; alas "grip types" - depending on what side of the range you are climbing on. Then throwing Arapiles into the mix - it would be a hard thing to specify. If you had a specific route/project you were aiming to do, then I could see the benefit of simulation - otherwise it would probably be not worthwhile.
widewetandslippery
3-Jul-2017
5:51:03 PM
On 2/07/2017 Olbert wrote:
>I prefer jugs, myself.

The ones you get your fingers in deep or like a large sloper?

Doug
3-Jul-2017
6:10:13 PM
On 2/07/2017 Olbert wrote:
>I prefer jugs, myself.

The ones you drink from or the ones you *fondle*?

gnaguts
3-Jul-2017
6:46:52 PM
On 2/07/2017 jacksonclimbs wrote:
>So relatively new to Victoria and currently doing a bit of hangboard and
>bouldering training. Typically in the past I've prioritized grip type in
>training depending on the location I'm climbing at. Just wondering what
>locals think are the grip types most commonly encountered.
>
>So far I've come across a lot more slopers at the Gramps than what I've
>seen at limestone style crags I've climbed at before. Conversely, I've
>not seen a whole lot of two finger pockets at the Gramps.
>
>If I had to hazard a guess at the most common grips, based on my limited
>experience, I'd think, in order of most common to least common;
>
>Edges
>Crimps
>Slopers
>Pinches
>Pockets
>
>Keen to hear others thoughts on most commonly encountered grip types at
>these locations.

JacksN , how long havya bin climbN?
itz not grip type , itz tha scarcity of them.
Tha harda tha climb tha less of them an or tha smalla they R , then reach an footwerk R all impotent, unless U climb like my fiend simz , where they impotent all tha time.

An 4 those with mind in tha gutta, grip strenth on tha jugz is all impotent, specialy wen they are tha silva kind.
jacksonclimbs
3-Jul-2017
7:48:15 PM
Thanks Jimmy - yeah, I guess I haven't seen a lot of pockets around in my limited travels. So wondering if it's worthwhile training them on the hangboard, or should just focus on crimps, edges and slopers. Am curious as to what other climbers familiar with the areas would see as characteristic of the areas - but as you say, it's pretty varied.


As for the rest of you, we'll I believe these are the holds you're looking for - https://www.tensionclimbing.com/hold-sets/6-diameter-sloper
jacksonclimbs
3-Jul-2017
7:51:08 PM
Thanks Gnaguts.

Almost 3 years now.

Yeah, getting owned by the technical footwork at the Arapiles, so focussing in on that weakness. I'm a bit of a thug. Also getting my head in the game for the bolder climbing down here.

JimmyS
3-Jul-2017
9:41:33 PM
If you wanna climb Angular Perspective, that's the only pocket based climb I can really think off that you need to really crank on steep pockets. But hangboarding on pockets is always good for finger strength I guess.
simey
4-Jul-2017
10:07:28 AM
On 3/07/2017 gnaguts wrote:
>Tha harda tha climb tha less of them an or tha smalla they R , then reach
>an footwerk R all impotent, unless U climb like my fiend simz , where they
>impotent all tha time.

Sounds like you have been working on your shaft grip a bit too much lately gnaguts. When are we going to see you putting it into action at Araps again?

gnaguts
4-Jul-2017
10:24:09 AM
On 4/07/2017 simey wrote:
>Sounds like you have been working on your shaft grip a bit too much lately
>gnaguts. When are we going to see you putting it into action at Araps again?
>

Funny U should menchun that my fiend.
Woz thunkN of cumin to tha Piles an getn lessonz on RP usage from Wendi 4 my nex holydaze.

Ay JaksN , about bean a thug an Also getting Ur hed an in tha game 4 tha bolda climbz ; U should get lessonz from my fiend simz on that coz he tha bolderestes thug i kno , an has conkad kerchoo.
An now itz time 4 anotha koffee 4 tha road.

phillipivan
4-Jul-2017
12:05:12 PM
The routes that take a good fisting have always been popular with a certain set. Where do your proclivities lay Jack?
jacksonclimbs
4-Jul-2017
7:18:29 PM
I'm going to climb that Kachoong, just waiting for my camera to come back from the shop.

As for my proclivities, I'm better at steep stuff, but I enjoy technical climbing more.
Wendy
7-Jul-2017
4:41:52 PM
Hand jams, fist jams, finger locks, arm bars and knee bars ...

Seriously, most climbers have no need to go finger board training. It's a bit of a give away that you are better at steep stuff. The weakness is in the technique, not the strength. Go climbing. Climb some more. Climb a variety of stuff. Have a cushy toprope on stuff out of your comfort zone and practice different techniques until they are no longer out of your comfortzone. Take a technique class. observe good climbers, how they move, how they place their feet, use their shoulders, milk rests, use body tension (there are a lot of bad climbers out there you might want to try not to observe too much). Build a repertoire of engrams that you can then recall under stress.

If you really want to build strength, do some core workouts. It's the bit most climbers are weakest in. When you are onsighting 25, I might concede some use in finger boards to advance further, but I'll mostly concede to them boredom and injury.
One Day Hero
7-Jul-2017
4:57:45 PM
On 7/07/2017 Wendy wrote:
>If you really want to build strength, do some core workouts. It's the
>bit most climbers are weakest in.

I know that this is the current popular notion, probably coming from yoga nuts and their obsession with all things ab. Do you really buy it though? Sure, for desperate slopey bouldering, or silly upside-down Wendy trenches....but normal climbing? Fingers and toes.
jacksonclimbs
7-Jul-2017
6:42:23 PM
Thanks Wendy, I get where you're coming from, which is why I have done in the past and also do now, pretty much everything you mention. In my case, I can only get outdoors on the weekends, with work and other commitments, so a periodized training program that includes a hangboarding phase alongside core and other strength building exercises works best for me.

From what I've read, finger strength is accretive over time, and will eventually be the most limiting factor in your climbing, ergo. better to start building it early, for when eventually it becomes the most limiting factor in climbing. I've also read that strength gains occur in roughly 15 degrees of the joint angle trained, which is why some climbers specifically focus on hangboard training certain grip types they will need for their local crag - hence the original question.
Kp
7-Jul-2017
10:34:14 PM
If you cant pull on the holds then how the hell is body tension going to help you?! Crimps, flattops and open handed pocket drags are the key to most gramp routes.

Stugang
8-Jul-2017
12:30:17 AM
Odh is full of shit. I reckon learning (badly) how to use body tension or head to toe core strength - is the single biggest thing that made me improve my climbing. Finger strength is second but not even close.

Point being with good body tension you can get away with holding on half as hard on a small hold.
Wendy
8-Jul-2017
8:05:09 AM
I'm a bit of an anti yoga nut Damo. I don't reckon they use anywhere near enough core and they stretch a whole bunch of things that aren't that useful to climbing and I would never recommend it as a climbing workout. Variations on planks are the way forward. And you use them heaps. they hold you solid in almost every position you in, any time you feel remotely barndoory, it's your core holding you on, when your feet are about to come off, it's your core holding them on. In fact, it's your core connecting you to your legs which you might have noticed are rather useful for pushing ... I really notice it's when my core has gone that I can't pull moves that were not a problem earlier in the day and I can't crank as far.

Some of the best climbers I know have never looked twice at a fingerboard. Many of the not so good climbers I know use them obsessively. They might have a place for the Adam's and Gareth's who were already onsighting 25 and trying to get better (and I am amazed that neither of them have injured themselves on their training regime) but most climbers are not Adam and Gareth. Most climbers climb 18 or less. Fingerboards are not what they need to get better. You can build sufficient finger strength just by climbing easily into the early 20s. What 22s do you need fingerboard training for?

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There are 46 messages in this topic.

 

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