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Switzerland Recommended Crags
12:09:29 PM
Which are the 'must visit' crags in Switzerland..I'll be there for a month next August. Mainly interested in mult-pitch rock routes..I've heard Motorhead is good at Eldorado..Any idea which guidebook this route is in, plus other guidebooks I should get for a month in Switzerland. Thanks

Eduardo Slabofvic
1:23:21 PM
check out the Engelhorner/Rosenlaui area. There's a few different areas there, but generally the limestone is very good quality for rock in the freeze/thaw zone. It's not that far from Eldorado. Bag loads of other really good stuff in that valley also. I've climbed in that valley many times over the various trips I've done, and I'll always go back there. It's great.

There is a series of guide books called Schweiz Extrem and Schweiz Plaisir. There are several of each for all of Switzerland.

Go to the camp ground/pizza bar at Gadman and talk to the guy (Tall, solid looking guy) who runs it, he knows a lot about the climbing there. There's climbing across the road which is very spectacular (Telistock (not sure of the spelling of that one) and Wendenstock), but not as good rock as Englehorner. Also the routes tend to be run out, steep and loose, more so towards the right hand end near the glacier. Very exciting. The guy in the pizza shop will know if they've been re-equipped. You'll need trad gear on all of these routes.

1:26:11 PM
I bought a "classic climbs" guidebook by the Remy brothers called Dreams of Switzerland - it is multi-language, inc English. It lists about 40 - 50 climbs in the alpine areas of central switzerland, like the Grimsel, Furka, Susten and Neufenen passes. All mulitpitch, semi-sport/trad. A pretty nice book, available to buy from Book Depository.
In August, all these areas are accessible in Summer conditions, mostly without glacier gear. Routes are all easier (Plaisir) and vary from 5 - 27 pitches! I've great things about the Goshenen Alp and Salbitschijen.
Unfortunately my October trip was too snowy for the above areas so I went south to Ticino, which the Plaisir Sud book is great for. There are heaps of MP sports, mostly slabby on Gneiss, up to 800m long, take a spare pair of calf muscles. There is some granite up higher, like Pic del Prevat, if it's too hot in the valley areas.
There's a chance I'll over that way next summer too...
2:35:14 PM
Tasgeez, my friend Eduardo haz Swiss dialed almost az good as Tiptoe Ridge, along with China an Thai 2.
Sorry Keenas, but as Uv noted, a book iznt necc respectd by tha weatha, so Ed wins the stipend increase this shred.

Oh, an Tasgeez, U mite wanna bone up on tha Swiss termz of donky boltz, an wots acceptabl 2 their famus 1st ascentionists etc.
8:23:01 PM
Might not be the right time of year but you'll never forget climbing the Eiger. There's a ~1000m 7a (6b+ mandatory). Drink in the history and listen to the sound of the rocks as they pelt down around you - they shouldn't actually hit you because you're on a ridge.
10:47:32 PM
We only climbed at Riffelhorn in Zermatt, climbing was ok but damn what a view - you climb above a glacier, a lake and top out to a view of the Matterhorn. You can also catch a train to within about 500m of the mountain. Most climbs go around 250m, old rings for pro, one or two per pitch so helps to have a bit of gear.
here's a topo

not my photo

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