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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Author

Arapiles newbe

Sunburntfeet

25-Apr-2016
10:44:02 PM

Heading to Araps next month, what climbs should I get on? Have only be climbing Trad for 6months or so, have lead a few 17's (they are 20-30m over here). Any suggestions would be appreciate, cheers.

dan_b

25-Apr-2016
11:01:03 PM

Mari


phillipivan

25-Apr-2016
11:14:42 PM

Have you had a look in the guide? Pick any of the multi star low to mid teen routes for a start. If you want any suggestions more specific than that perhaps it would be useful to know where you have climbed before, and what sorts of climbs you enjoy and or feel you are stronger at. Arapilies does a good trade in classic easy multipitch routes if they appeal.

johnpitcairn

26-Apr-2016
3:27:44 PM

Sunburnfeet: where is "over here"?

gfdonc

26-Apr-2016
3:39:12 PM

Check his profile.

johnpitcairn

26-Apr-2016
4:25:57 PM

Ah, duh yes.

Start on anything with 2 or 3 stars that is at least 3 grades below what you think you currently onsight. Don't ignore the easy classics in the 9-13 range either.

Be a bit wary of 16s and (especially) 17s put up around 1966-67. Mari as suggested above is one of those 17s. It's terrific but maybe don't get on that unless you can hand-jam a bit without tiring or freaking yourself out.

Andy P

26-Apr-2016
4:32:29 PM

Tiptoe Ridge by moonlight is (was) THE Araps classic.
Best thing I ever did there by far. Easy so you go back down the same way.
It's not about grades or high numbers ...
Enjoy yourself, be safe.
Cheers,
Andy.

widewetandslippery

26-Apr-2016
5:19:21 PM

Central gully and organ pipes starred easy routes. Then at your grade kaiser, resignation, blockbuster link is a must. From the abseil, if you don, t see coming back soon toperope missing link and preservative added. Otherwise save them for another day.

Jayford4321

26-Apr-2016
7:50:49 PM

Y R U all leading sunburntfeet astray?
The only routes worth doing are the New non-select megacrags at Arapiles as championed by our very own Wendy.


shortman

27-Apr-2016
11:17:42 AM

Sunburnt feet is just another Stugang account....

widewetandslippery

27-Apr-2016
11:48:56 AM

If so let there be rock

johnpitcairn

27-Apr-2016
3:32:44 PM

Assuming it isn't Stugang or he isn't trolling ... Tiptoe Ridge (solo it), Agamemnon, Trapeze, Pedro, Piccolo, Panzer, Watchtower Chimney, Kestrel, Hornpiece, Muldoon, Lamplighter, Hot Flap, Toccata, (Kaiser-)Resignation, Beautiful Possibilities.

Then take stock and consider: Watchtower Crack, Brolga, Absolutely Fabulous, Yo-yo, Dirge, Swinging, Spellbinder, Mari, Skink, Golden Fleece, Euridyce ... Tannin?

PeterW

27-Apr-2016
6:21:13 PM

I'm surprised nobody has mentioned Bard! It might be "only" 12 but the positions are pretty spectacular!

widewetandslippery

27-Apr-2016
10:01:24 PM

Bard holds a great line but is an ordinary route, 1 good pitch. With limited time so many good routes to do.


Eduardo Slabofvic

27-Apr-2016
10:55:45 PM

On 27/04/2016 johnpitcairn wrote:
>Assuming it isn't Stugang or he isn't trolling ... Tiptoe Ridge (solo it),
>Agamemnon, Trapeze, Pedro, Piccolo, Panzer, Watchtower Chimney, Kestrel,
>Hornpiece, Muldoon, Lamplighter, Hot Flap, Toccata, (Kaiser-)Resignation,
>Beautiful Possibilities.
>
>Then take stock and consider: Watchtower Crack, Brolga, Absolutely Fabulous,
>Yo-yo, Dirge, Swinging, Spellbinder, Mari, Skink, Golden Fleece, Euridyce
>... Tannin?

Spewgang would be doing well to get up all those routes


shortman

28-Apr-2016
9:28:09 AM

johnpitcairn

28-Apr-2016
10:20:00 AM

Just things that I remember as good, varied and maybe a little challenging from 5 visits to Araps over the last few years, a couple each from grades 11-18.

I agree that Bard is in a great position, but only pitch 3 seems worth the 3 stars. Panzer and Watchtower Chimney are both better at grade 12 in my opinion.

stugang

28-Apr-2016
7:22:48 PM

No flies on you shorty.

Sunburntfeet

29-Apr-2016
10:36:26 PM

Thanks for all the suggestions, looking at the guide, so many 2 and3 star routes, will look into them more. Will be climbing The Bard first, mates recommend route. So keen to climb some bad g multi pitches!!!!

Sunburntfeet

29-Apr-2016
10:38:25 PM

*big multi pitches

There are 44 messages in this topic.