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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All WA (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Climbing recommendations for WA?

phillipivan
5-Jan-2016
3:59:21 PM
Who has climbed over there; what's good; what's a waste of time?

Potentially have a week in March, starting from Perth, but anticipating hiring a car.

Best,

Pi.
peteclimbs
5-Jan-2016
4:31:26 PM
I'm from over that way. Lots of climbing if you're prepared to drive a bit. At that time of year you want to be south of Perth, which really only rules out Kalbarri.

In and around Perth itself there are a few quarries which a mix of sport and trad. Mountain Quarry is probably the pick of the bunch and only around 40 minutes from the city. The rock quality at all the quarries is a bit suss and you'll want to get there early or late to avoid the heat. People bitch and moan about the quarries but actually, if you're stuck in Perth, they provide pretty reasonable and convenient climbing.

South of Perth you've got a couple of different options in the Margaret River area. Wilyabrup for sport and trad on granite in amazing ocean side location with easy access. There are a few pics in Simon Carter's recent book. This is a must do based on the location if nothing else.

Then you've got Bobs Hollow also in Margs. Bobs is lots of quite steep limestone, all bolts. Bit more of a walk in although it's very picturesque as you walk along the Cape to Cape trail. There's also a bit of bouldering being developed around the Margs area but I haven't done any of it. Obviously you also have access to world class surf and great food and wine, making Margs a pretty good all-round performer.

Further South there is cool sea cliff climbing at spots like West Cape Howe and The Gap (Albany). A 4WD is handy for some of these spots, especially WCH. Mix of sport and trad but you'd definitely be missing out if you didn't have a rack. Much of the climbing here involves rapping in.

There are other spots in the Porongurups (Castle Rock is supposed to be good) and Stirling Ranges, but I haven't been to those.

If you haven't got one try and pick up a copy of West Australian Rock. It's probably the best guide book, albeit a bit out of date now. Also worth posting on the WA equivalent of Chocky http://www.climberswa.asn.au/forum/

phillipivan
5-Jan-2016
5:21:52 PM
Cheers mate.

I already had a bit of a poke round the guide on the website you linked to. It was a little light on info for some areas, so I figured someone like yourself could cut to the chase somewhat.

Whats a reasonable trad rack to take over there? Double cams? Big stuff, small stuff? Guess I want two ropes for the rap in routes?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
5-Jan-2016
5:30:27 PM
Knowing PI somewhat, and having been to those areas myself, I'd say West Cape Howe is likely to satisfy him most, followed by Margaret Rv (that I found to be a touch on the short side, with the surfing far exceeding the climbing, when conditions for it were good) ...
peteclimbs
5-Jan-2016
7:11:15 PM
Just focussing on WCH then:

Definitely a couple of ropes assuming you want to leave your rap rope in place.

Full rack up to #4. I remember placing a 4 (and then bumping it up with me) on The Climb (*** 18). Cool route. I always take doubles just in case but that's just me :) Several routes are multis with trad belays so that always eats a bit of extra gear. You may well also use a bit of gear on the rap anchors - there are bolts at the top in a number of places but not all. Bolts are often set back a fair way from the edge. Take bolt plates from memory.

Probably the biggest thing to be aware of with WCH is the approach. It's a ~1.5 hour walk-in from the main campground in sometimes soft sand or a moderate 4WD adventure (low range, tyres down to 20 PSI in spots, fold your mirrors in). Don't try it in a soft roader as clearance is a problem. We always drive in and camp on the cape near the climbing in which case take all your own camping gear including water. There are a couple of little streams to top up water if you look hard.

It's also worth checking the weather forecast as it can get very very breezy down there and, depending on swell conditions, the bottoms of some pitches will be inaccessible. Not to say you can't climb them, just that you might have to start from a little higher up or else risk getting a soaking.

Neil
6-Jan-2016
9:26:10 PM
Wilyabrup is very nice. Especially combined with the other distractions of the Margaret River region.
You will find Bob's Hollow limestone incredibly disappointing if you have climbed overseas. But it is a nice walk and if you try hard you will be pumped out by lunch time.

WCH is excellent. But problematic without a 4wd and you probably don't want to take a rental in there as it is proper 4wd-ing. You will need 1.5 racks worth of gear. Up to #3 camlot will be ok. If you can only fit 1 rack in your bag and 1 rope, there are still some good things to do that you can walk to the bottom of. e.g Vulture Street.

Driving to WCH from Margaret River, Mt Frankland is worth a 1day or 1/2 stop at.

Spend 1 day at Peak Head, near Albany and near WCH, and that will be your week and time to head home....
bones
11-Jan-2016
12:23:20 PM
I can lend you the WA rock guide. We spent a couple of weeks at wilyabrup, it was great. West cape howe looks amazing

There are 7 messages in this topic.

 

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