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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Organ Pipes (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Yossarian Start
kieranl
29-Dec-2015
9:03:16 AM
I'm in a conversation with Wendy on The Crag regarding the new route she has written up to replace Yossarian. Unfortunately I can't find a way to add a photo to the conversation on TheCrag so putting it here instead.

This is where I have always thought the start of Yossarian goes. I've started it this way twice. I once scrambled up the gully and did the much easier, shorter and worthless approach from there.
The description in the 1969 guidebook described the start as climb the buttress a couple of feet right of Toccata - that's no more than a metre right of Toccata. There's no mention of scrambling up the gully which is what you'd have to do to start any further right.


Timfreddo
29-Dec-2015
10:15:22 PM
Why don't y'all just climb toccata??? Looks much better than the filler route youse are squabbling over... zzz...zzz...
kieranl
30-Dec-2015
9:22:00 PM
On 29/12/2015 Timfreddo wrote:
>Why don't y'all just climb toccata??? Looks much better than the filler
>route youse are squabbling over... zzz...zzz...

Because I actually like doing this stuff.
Wendy
31-Dec-2015
9:52:52 AM
Have you done toccata 50 times yet tim? The world wouldn't have rediscovered tremolo or discord direct if it wasn't for Kieran and others doing the off the beaten track routes. People tend to think of them as classics now. I like exploration and araps is the crag that just keeps giving. But you stick to the routes with queues and think you've climbed arapiles out if you like.

Kieran, what I did was directly up the crack from the ledge with the bushes to the ledge on top of the pillar. I have crack blinkers. What douglas thought the first pitch would be was the start around right you thought was worthless. I thought it also looked worthless hence starting up the crack. New route, miniscule variation, pedantic sticking to the line of jams .... Whichever, we should clarify the description not to be the bit we both think is worthless!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31-Dec-2015
2:06:17 PM
On 31/12/2015 Wendy wrote:
>I like exploration
(Snip)
>Kieran, what I did was directly up the crack from the ledge with the bushes
>to the ledge on top of the pillar. I have crack blinkers. What douglas
>thought the first pitch would be was the start around right you thought
>was worthless. I thought it also looked worthless hence starting up the
>crack. New route, miniscule variation, pedantic sticking to the line of
>jams .... Whichever, we should clarify the description not to be the bit
>we both think is worthless!

Adventure is never worthless.
I reckon at least half the new routes I've put up are unrecorded for that very reason.
Others might argue (perhaps validly) that they're worthless and not worthy of repeating. They are entitled to their opinion, however I'm not about to change my modus operandi any time soon...
;-)

Goodonya (all) for your efforts both in doing the routes and recording them.

Oh, & happy new year to all Chockstoners, & many safe climbing returns to you for the upcoming year.

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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