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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Arapiles Tiger Wall (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Flinders Lane Rap Route
11:37:11 AM
I know this has been around for a few years now but went down it for the first time yesterday.
It's not too bad to get down to the top anchor but a cam and a long sling could prevent you from taking the big dive if you stumble getting down.
We used 2x60m ropes and did 1x30m rap to the anchors level with the Skylark anchors.

In future I would do this first rap using just one rope and carry the other as the extra rope got caught all over the place on the way down. Then pulling 30m of rope through the anchor before the end left the ledge was a pain. So would be better for first person down to carry the second rope and add it while the second person comes down.

Second rap was 60m to the ground. Need to be careful that no-one's starting up below you though.

If you've got a single 60 you can get down in 3 x 30m raps but be careful that your rope-ends are even and tie knots in your rope-ends (but see below). There are also a couple of extra bolt stations apparently set up to allow descent with a single 50 (4x50) but that seems a bit excessive. You may as well cater for 120' No 4 too.

Interestingly I tied knots (figure8 on bight) in the end of each rope and set them. Both knots were no longer tied when I got to the ground (and no, no-one had come by and un-tied them). Both ropes are newish 8.5. I'll have to do some experimenting as it's not something I've noticed before and I do want my insurance against going off the rope-ends to actually work if/when I need it.
1:37:00 PM
f8s and even overhands often untie, I use a barrel knot pulled tight. A double overhand knot is pretty good too, and give you a loop to clip to, or to clip to the anchors.

I don't understand why 60 and 70m ropes are popular in Australia; we have few trad pitches over 50m and few sport pitches over 25m. I think raps should be planned for 50m ropes (25 or 50m) unless there's a really good reason to go bigger.
stuart h
2:03:19 PM
re end of rope knots for rappels - I have found & seen lots of fig 8s, both in the single strand & on a bight (& overhands on bight), coming undone on long rappels over the years. I stopped using them a long time ago because of this and switched to tying triple fisherman's style stopper knots in each end & have found these to be much more reliable (at least in terms of still being there when I started organising the next rappel- thankfully I still haven't slammed into them).

I reckon that, as a recreational crag climber, putting knots in the ends of abseil ropes (unless you can see both strands lying on the ground) & loading your abseil system before detaching from the anchor are the two actions/tests/checks/habits most likely to save your life.

I also reckon that the pitch under the bottom station, Antiques Road Show, is excellent.
9:48:36 PM
Yep re: fig 8's, I've had the same thing happen and switched to stopper knots a few years back.

11:14:23 PM
Ditto the F8 untying (first time just recently). Gone to double fisherman's now with no issue yet.
11:19:44 AM
I noticed when down in April there is also a Rap Anchor (double rings) on the high ledge above and opposite Missing Link that can be used to get down to this anchor on Flinders Lane (1 x 60m, is very handy if on The Syrinx etc as it saves having to down climb to the base of Missing Link and then go through the Key way or Ali's to get back to the base of Tiger Wall)

Figure of 9 (re extra twist) seems to solve that and is less likely to fit through a bigger descent device such as an 8.

There are 6 messages in this topic.


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