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8-Nov-2006 12:36:09 PM
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Wasn't Take Five soloed by Robin Miller for the first ascent?
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8-Nov-2006 2:02:59 PM
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On 8/11/2006 M9iswhereitsat wrote:
>It probably gets the higher grade due to the protection element being
>considered by the FA?
Well, it's certainly supposed to under the Ewbank grading system.
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8-Nov-2006 2:11:05 PM
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Yes, but if it was soloed on the FA then the pro was academic.
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8-Nov-2006 5:20:41 PM
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Robin Miller graded Take Five with the leader in mind. From memory, back in the days before aliens etc, there was a v. poorly protected move about 15/16 at 6-7metres. Above that move there was a shallow horizontal with a pebble and you could get a dodgy #2 hex behind the pebble, then a move or two of 17/18 then some good gear. When I last led that pitch (in the late 80s) the pebble had gone and I think there was a good small cam placement - there was a cam placement anyhow.
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9-Nov-2006 9:08:12 AM
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Yeah the guide book comment makes sense pre-friend/cams. And sure some of the cams are not 'ideal', but I thought they were ok (but sure I wasn't going to back-jump the route!)
I remember stacking a couple of nuts in a pocket down low somewhere - thought it was pretty cool, even if maybe not the most bomber.
I just don't like the idea that the guide puts people of doing a route when they'd otherwise enjoy it.
James
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10-Nov-2006 11:59:42 AM
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I might go and jump on it again then....itwas pretty dark....finished first pitch with a head light on. But I can usually see gear....;)
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