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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles Declaration Crag (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
New Wave Winos
duglash
30-Sep-2014
11:38:00 AM
Hi Mike Law, do you know anything about this route? I tr'd it years ago and just added it to thecrag

New Wave Winos 26 Dec Crag

Start as for Saggitarian, head left under bulge and dyno up left through it past a carrot bolt hammered into a break like a piton. Yes, you read that correctly, and that's why I've attributed the route to Mike Law as surely noone else would have thought this was a great idea. I just TR'd it.


https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/australia/arapiles/declaration-crag/route/575435502
mikllaw
30-Sep-2014
2:00:24 PM
I'm honoured that a mere piece of shonky gear could give me a tick, however I didn't have anything to do with this masterpiece.
I vaguely recall repeating Steps Ahead in MD Scorpions (Scrap-Irons), I led the FA of The Ferrets are Coming (Peter was short). I think I was gypped on the FA of hit the Deck, fell off the cruxy bit (which I hear now has some drilled bits to the hold, repairing hold breakage or enhancing?) and swung down to the easy ground 1.5m off the deck, as was the ethic of the time, and went straight back up. I think I fell foul of the locals as i'd cleared part of a swallow's nest from the break.

ChuckNorris
30-Sep-2014
6:36:27 PM
Cleaning a few swallows nests would be fine as long as they were harvested in a sustainable fashion, eaten and not gone to waste. The shame and scorn comes from not eating them afterwards.

http://chinesefood.about.com/od/chinesesouprecipes/r/swallowsnest.htm

Also tend to agree you were gypped if that was how you did the FA. I was a generation (or two?) after you and was taught yo yo was the style. Simey banged on for years about the virtues of a yo yo ascent long after most of us had accepted times had changed.
kieranl
30-Sep-2014
9:02:14 PM
Maybe the swallows' nests could have been reinforced with glue :)
kieranl
30-Sep-2014
9:28:54 PM
I always thought that weird bolt was from the New Wave Wanks team. Don't know why I thought this other than the quality seemed to fit.
duglash
1-Oct-2014
10:28:43 AM
Well I think we should give the ascent to Michael, as an honorary thing to Services to Astounding Fixed Gear in Australia. I'll leave thecrag description as it is unless someone lets me know otherwise/edits it.
Dave J
1-Oct-2014
11:00:47 AM
Hey Doug,

I always thought it would have gone straight up to and past the bolt rather than coming in from sagitarian.

When will you be going for the lead?
duglash
1-Oct-2014
11:27:15 AM
You step in from the start of Saggitarian - you don't really touch Saggitarian, you trav out on the holds past the bolt. There didn't seem the holds to go straight up, it took me a dozen shots to nail the dyno up left, but maybe someone could do it straight up.

I'm waiting for a bashie to arrive in the mail to fix in a seam after the crux. You'd be crazy to lead it without that.

(Anyone done Live Bait at Kaputar? It has a fixed bashie on the 22 pitch...)
kieranl
1-Oct-2014
12:55:55 PM
On 1/10/2014 duglash wrote:
>I'm waiting for a bashie to arrive in the mail to fix in a seam after
>the crux. You'd be crazy to lead it without that.
>
>(Anyone done Live Bait at Kaputar? It has a fixed bashie on the 22 pitch...)

You probably never climbed at Ben Cairn back in the old days. Mikl's copperhead "protection" was special.
kieranl
2-Oct-2014
10:15:58 PM
On 30/09/2014 mikllaw wrote:

>I led the FA of The Ferrets are Coming (Peter was short).

I went back to Noddy's guide and he's got Peter as leader that far back (1978). That's too close to the event to be a stuff-up, got to be a conspiracy. When you look at Nod's dodgy family history (involvement in Petrov affair, skipping school to go yabbying etc) it all fits together.
The wonders of online guides mean that we can actually fix this great injustice.
mikllaw
3-Oct-2014
8:54:13 AM
I'll ask Peter, he's sure to have a better memory than me.

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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