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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
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Author
Old chipped/chopped bolt ladder at Dec Crag
kieranl
18-Sep-2014
9:01:23 AM
I noticed the other day that the old chopped bolt ladder line with the chipped holds up the middle of the wall right of Steps Ahead is getting some top-rope attention.
Nothing wrong with that, it looks really good climbing, but hope no-one has thoughts of reinstating some bolts for leading it.
It's such a pity that this lovely bit of rock was chipped as it would have gone without that. It's best left as a top-rope exercise.
Dave J
18-Sep-2014
4:39:51 PM
I believe it was Hoss who was having a play and I believe he was thinking it could be done without bolts...this is all second hand info so take it with a grain of salt.

Its kind of like the Hiroshima of Araps...bad things happened there in the past and now nobody goes there anymore.

This was a bit before my time but was there a reason why Steps Ahead and Hit The Deck weren't also cemented up and chopped at the same time?
kieranl
18-Sep-2014
4:59:56 PM
No single reason why only that one. I don't think that I was as aware of the chipping on those other routes at the time.
The chopped route was very new at the time and was quite an eyesore, especially as a good-sized flake had broken off and been concreted back onto the wall - you can still see the vestiges of the concrete. The flake came off again with a light tap of the hammer. There's a fragment of it in my garden.
Anyway there's only so much righteous indignation to be drawn on.
Oh, and the big scar down the bottom of the route pre-dates all this nonsense - probably from the original uncompleted aid bolt ladder back in the early seventies.
dalai
18-Sep-2014
5:17:53 PM
On 18/09/2014 Dave J wrote:
>This was a bit before my time but was there a reason why Steps Ahead and
>Hit The Deck weren't also cemented up and chopped at the same time?

Hit the Deck only had the one chip from memory and is a great little route. Would it be doable without the chip?
kieranl
18-Sep-2014
6:29:47 PM
On 18/09/2014 Dave J wrote:
>I believe it was Hoss who was having a play and I believe he was thinking
>it could be done without bolts...this is all second hand info so take it
>with a grain of salt.
>
Interesting idea. Turn a chopped route into a chop route.
mikllaw
18-Sep-2014
7:10:59 PM

>Hit the Deck only had the one chip from memory and is a great little route.
>Would it be doable without the chip?

Should do, it was put up without a chip
Dave J
18-Sep-2014
7:50:55 PM
On 18/09/2014 kieranl wrote:
>Interesting idea. Turn a chopped route into a chop route.

So if your problem with rebolting the line is that it would be legitimising past indiscretions...Would doing it as an extremely necky lead or a long way above a couple of pads be any better?

I remember having a pay on the line years ago and it definitely would go without the chipped holds but it was hard to get too inspired about it.

Dave J
18-Sep-2014
7:56:49 PM
On 18/09/2014 mikllaw wrote:
>
>>Hit the Deck only had the one chip from memory and is a great little
>route.
>>Would it be doable without the chip?
>
>Should do, it was put up without a chip

Really? When I did it there was a very blatant line of 3 or 4 16mm holes making up the crux edge.

Long move to it...maybe a long move off it? May or may not be possible with out but it would turn a nice little route into a bouldery one mover.
mikllaw
18-Sep-2014
8:05:04 PM
Put up back in the hand drilling days so no chips like that were possible. Perhaps a hold came off?

ChuckNorris
18-Sep-2014
8:05:20 PM
Not sure if it's true but I'm sure I read somewhere ages ago that there were sharp/crystally edges in the same spot as the drilled edges . Implying the route was improved to be more comfortable and not harder.

Is there any truth in that mikl?.

On 18/09/2014 Dave J wrote:
>On 18/09/2014 mikllaw wrote:
>>
>>>Hit the Deck only had the one chip from memory and is a great little
>>route.
>>>Would it be doable without the chip?
>>
>>Should do, it was put up without a chip
>
>Really? When I did it there was a very blatant line of 3 or 4 16mm holes
>making up the crux edge.
>
> Long move to it...maybe a long move off it? May or may not be possible
>with out but it would turn a nice little route into a bouldery one mover.
>
>

ChuckNorris
18-Sep-2014
8:12:44 PM
Maybe I was told that rather than read it.
kieranl
18-Sep-2014
8:40:06 PM
On 18/09/2014 Dave J wrote:
>On 18/09/2014 kieranl wrote:
>>Interesting idea. Turn a chopped route into a chop route.
>
>So if your problem with rebolting the line is that it would be legitimising
>past indiscretions...Would doing it as an extremely necky lead or a long
>way above a couple of pads be any better?
>
>I remember having a pay on the line years ago and it definitely would
>go without the chipped holds but it was hard to get too inspired about
>it.
>
Yes, the idea of sticking your neck out on a chipped route isn't all that inspiring. It would hardly be overwhelmed with ascents. Neither do I have much of a problem with someone wanting to do that, let alone that what I think about it wouldn't matter diddly-squat to whoever wanted to do it.
Dave J
18-Sep-2014
8:56:36 PM
On 18/09/2014 mikllaw wrote:
>Put up back in the hand drilling days so no chips like that were possible.
>Perhaps a hold came off?

Maybe ...Its been a long time since Ive been on it...and probably twice that long since you've been on it.

Kieran Id be curious to hear more about the line to the left. What was done and undone.

were chips filled in or just bolts removed? i had assumed that the cement was an ugly attempt to fill in chipped holds rather than cement that was used to reattach a flake. were there pockets drilled as well on that one?
kieranl
18-Sep-2014
9:53:46 PM
On 18/09/2014 Dave J wrote:

>Kieran Id be curious to hear more about the line to the left. What was
>done and undone.
>
>were chips filled in or just bolts removed? i had assumed that the cement
>was an ugly attempt to fill in chipped holds rather than cement that was
>used to reattach a flake. were there pockets drilled as well on that one?
>
>
The chopped line just had the bolts chopped and concreted flake removed. Would have been better if I'd pulled the bolts rather than chopping them.
The route had a chequered past (hesitate to call it history).
Started in the early 70s as a bolt-ladder part-way up the wall. I think this was by the same guy who put up the Cassandra bolt-ladder. But that was just before my time. I must ask Noddy about it.
I think this was also the scene of the "powder-puff" hoax in the late 70s or early 80s. If memory serves me correctly a bolt-head and hanger were glued to the wall past the top of the old bolt ladder and the rumour was put about that it was climbed and called Powder Puff. Then again I may have that wrong. Hero might remember.
Then in the mid-eighties it began to be worked (post-edit old bolt-ladder was removed and rebolted). The guy who was working it was apparently getting the moves but couldn't string it together and his time in Australia was running out. Then the dodgy flake he was using for a good handhold shake-out departed company from the wall. This was no surprise, the wonder was that it hadn't pulled off the first time it was touched. Suddenly the route was done, he was gone, there was the flake attached with a big lump of concrete and a row of chipped holds.
I rapped it and inspected it then chopped the bolts. I didn't fill in any holds so how it is is how it was, apart from the concreted flake. I think Hero took a photo of the event but I've never seen one.
kieranl
18-Sep-2014
9:59:24 PM
Hadn't occurred to me before but the chopping happened in the months after Keith Egerton died and before I went overseas. Looking back on it, that's probably relevant to how I acted.

edit : I remember Keith like it was yesterday. The night before he left for Jannu I came back from a skiiing trip and dropped in to see him at Bangla's place in Highett St about midnight. He was still packing and as happy as I had seen him. That is one of my life's great un-missed opportunities.
widewetandslippery
19-Sep-2014
8:54:13 AM
that high underclingy thing in my demented memory always looked a bit "slotty".

Was it the Plant Man in the rock photo?

I love how the bastion of purity is chipped to shit.

ChuckNorris
19-Sep-2014
5:17:35 PM
I don't think the under cling is chipped but it is Mr Plant in the pic that adorned my bedroom wall for many a year.

Great pic but I reckon posed - I tried the move that way and it was nails. Once I ignored the photo beta and used the under cling with my thumb it was a walk in the park. Over 26 years ago - scary how time flies.

In any case I now realise that claw didn't do the FA so apologies for alluding to the possibility that you knew anything about chipping routes.
Nottobetaken
19-Sep-2014
8:28:55 PM
Stugang - I'm pretty sure the 'high reach for the upside down gaston' move (on HTD) was a shot of Steve Mayers attempting it, not CP - however clearly you guys are talking about two different routes. Don't think HTD would go easily without the chipped (badly) hold, and nice in-house joke about it being a one-mover if it did DJ!
dalai
19-Sep-2014
8:33:11 PM
On 19/09/2014 Stugang wrote:
>Great pic but I reckon posed - I tried the move that way and it was nails.
>Once I ignored the photo beta and used the under cling with my thumb it
>was a walk in the park. Over 26 years ago - scary how time flies.

I followed the photo beta (going to have to flick through the my old Rock magazines to see if I can find it) and did find it a tough little move. Climbed it with Kevin Lindorff - not going to even try and guess how long ago!

ChuckNorris
19-Sep-2014
10:54:19 PM
NBT - I'm prepared to be made a fool of (it goes with my day job...so why not the night one) but Im pretty sure there was a CP photo published. There may have been a steve mayors photo as well that I seem to recall...doing it more like a chicken wing undercling whereas CP was two fingers yearning to get deeper in the slot.

either way bogus beta. the route is way easier if you shove a thumb in the slot to set yourself for the pop to the pocket above.

On 19/09/2014 Nottobetaken wrote:
>Stugang - I'm pretty sure the 'high reach for the upside down gaston' move
>(on HTD) was a shot of Steve Mayers attempting it, not CP - however clearly
>you guys are talking about two different routes. Don't think HTD would
>go easily without the chipped (badly) hold, and nice in-house joke about
>it being a one-mover if it did DJ!

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
There are 26 messages in this topic.

 

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