Rock Master Publications:
Sublime Climbs - A Guide to the best rock climbing venues in Victoria, Australia.By Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding & Jarrod Hodgson. Over 700 climbs, 158 phototopos, 36 maps, and 380 pages covering the best of Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo and the Grampians $45.00
It's in the Northern Wonderland section of the Halls Gap area in TheCrag.com. and seems to have a selection of easy routes for beginners. Can anyone tell me where it is and how to get there?
If you know where all the other little walls are in this area (Blockbuster Buttress, Dawn Wall, Wildflower, Wild Geese and the Upper and Lower Goons) you could do everyone a big service and add the location descriptions into TheCrag. Or you can post here and I can put them in.
From my files of 12 years ago. We've had the fires and the floods (not sure about the pestilence) but it should still be findable.
UPDATED WITH ANOTHER ROUTE ADDED: Deshparate and Diverse
150m past the turn off to the summit of Mackey's Peak there is a wire net fence. Turn left (east) into the bush and then right (south). Follow the small broken wall (which provides for some bouldering) for 100-150m until it grows up to be a proper little cliff.
Time from car: 30-35 minutes
Descent: at the left hand end of the cliff.
Climbs are described from R to L.
Ponsonby's Crack 27m 7
Starts about 2m R of two conifers (IF they are still there). Up over the boulder into the chimney that takes a direct line to the top. John Fisher, Jonathan Bloomfield 12.11.83
Yin 27m 6
Starts directly behind two conifers. Move up the crack past the gum tree and over the overhang. Then move up the L chimney on good holds. John Fisher, Jonathan Bloomfield 12.11.83
Yang 27m 6
As for Yin but take the chimney on the R. John Fisher, Jonathan Bloomfield 12.11.83
Gelati Crumble 27m 7
The thin crack L of the conifers. Continue up veering R to move up the crack between Dodgem Delight and Yang and follow R side of buttress to top. John Fisher solo 12.11.83
Dodgem Delight 28m 9
Just L of Gelati Crumble. Follow the corner through the bottomless chimney to the top. Ceri Law, Bill Andrews 26.4.81
*Ringtail 28m 10
Up Dodgem Delight, step L above the bushes and follow the corner. Bill Andrews, Ceri Law 25.4.81
*Barabajagal 30m 15
5m L of Ringtail, the first main line on the R hand of the orange rock. Up past a small tree, layback off the creaking hold, past another tree then the line to the top. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling 22.3.81 Originally broken into 2 pitches at 13m.
Shuper Street 28m 16
Climb the buttress L of Barabajagal with sparse protection. Peter Martin, Ed Steenbergen 21.3.91
Frank Nugans Hand 39m 8
4m L of Barabajagal. Up the block onto the front of the buttress and into the chimney. Bridge wide then climb the L wall for a few metres stepping L to finish at the top. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews 22.3.81
Major Mitchellís Minor Chimney 29m 9
2m L of Frank Nugans Hand. Up the crack into the chimney , at the choss move L and up over some blocks. Bill Andrews, Ceri Law 25.4.81
Shuper 25m 17
Climb the crack between Major Mitchellís Minor Chimney and Deshperado. Move R from the bollard then climb the buttress direct. Peter Martin, Ed Steenbergen 21.3.91
Shuper Duper 22m 20
Starts as for Deshperado. Move L from the bollard and up the wall. Steve Jones, Peter Martin 21.3.91
Deshperado 25m 14
2m L of Major Mitchellís Minor Chimney. Up the wall on the L of the crack step R below the bollard and up the R hand crack into the chimney. Up past the tree and easily onwards. Allan Hope, Bill Andrews 12.1.83
Deshparate and Diverse 25m 16
Start up Deshperado to bollard. Step right to bottomless corner on arete between Deshperado and Major Mitchellís Minor Chimney. Up crack, moving left at top of crack to avoid gully bashing. Glen Donohue, Graeme Smith. 1.11.97
*Precerious 20m 18
2m L of Deshperado. Up to the roof, over it and then the crack. Allan Hope, Bill Andrews 12.1.83 Originally done with a weighted rope. F.F.A. Allan Hope 11.3.84
*Dynomotive 23m 14'ish
The black streak 3m L of Precerious. Up the streak to a ledge at 6m then the corner on the R hand end of the ledge. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling 22.3.81
The Nose and Tina 20m 15
As for Dynomotive but at the ledge step R onto the arete and follow flakes up steep face, being wary of loose blocks. Kieran Loughran, Paul Horne, Heather Phillips 12.11.83
*Portrait of Dorian Gray 27m 18
"I aged a bit on this one." Starts 2m L of Dynomotive. Up to gain a jug in the middle of the face and on to the ledge. Up just R of Crocks Alley (it's a struggle to stay out of that climb). Bill Andrews, Allan Hope 7.5.83
Crocks Alley 23m 8
1m L of Portrait Of Dorian Gray. Up the crack and wall, bypass the bush on the R and regain the crack. Ceri Law, Bill Andrews 25.4.81
Another file from 2002. I noticed some typos in this lot, caveat emptor.
About 150m past the turn off to Crock Wall there is a good view down into the valley. Crock Wall is below this lookout. Ten metres further on head right (west) into the bush and try and follow the cairns up to the cliff.
Time from car: 30-35 minutes.
Climbs are described from L to R.
*Ghost Rope Arete 20m 6
Poor protection. From the top of a boulder follow the third arete L of Ayesha. Allan Hope, Bill Andrews - Both Solo - 27.11.82
Red Herring 30m 16
Nice. The L most of a pair of corner cracks about 30m L of Ayesha. Scramble up to the base of the attractive corner and climb it until some loose blocks are met. Step L and climb the crack in the wall. Chris Baxter, David Gairns 29.2.88
Echidna 40m 13
Scramble up to the corner between Sundance Kid and Red Herring and climb it to the flake. Start 2m L of Sundance Kid and climb the corner to the flake on the R wall. Step R below the flake, then straight up the wall to the terrace. Step R and finish up the headwall. Bruce Somerfield, Vicki Benson, Tony Wilson 27.1.91
*Sundance Kid 40m 8
Worth two stars with the direct start. Start 3m R of the yellow square, up for a couple of metres then move L to the arete and motor on up. David Witham. Lachlan Witham October 1983
Direct Start: grade 12. At the yellow square, directly below the arete. FA Unknown.
Spend a Penny 45m 19
Looks harder than it is. Start just L of The Noonday Sun on the slab below three stepped roofs leading L. Up and under roofs, then the L arete. Stephen Hamilton, David Karla. 4.9.93
The Noonday Sun 33m 12
Easier than it looks. The scrub filled chimney midway between Red Herring and Ayesha. 1. 10m Climb the chimney until level with the traverse line. 2. 23m (crux) Traverse L and climb the main flake-crack to a prominent crack in the face. Climb this and straight up the final wall. David Gairns, Chris Baxter 1.3.88
Morning Glory 40m 24
Climbs the attractive L wall of Ayesha. Quite scary, there are just enough runners (two drilled peg runners and a poor bolt) and fewer solid holds. Glenn Tempest 15.2.91
**Ayesha 45m 16
Subtle, worth searching for! The line to the 2m roof, traverse L and up the corner. Iain Sedgman, Matt Taylor 1977
1921 45m 21
Brilliant, clean and sustained. Corner just R of Ayesha. Hard stemming up corner, L around roof, arete. Step L then steep hand crck to slab. Stephen hamilton, David Karla. 4.9.93
Locust Wing 32m 11
About 10m R of Ayesha are two corners, this is the L one. Up into the crack to a ledge. Up behind the chockstones to the top. Julie Tulloch, Bill Andrews Feb. 1978
Harsh Reality 40m 17
Varied and filthy climbing, desperately needs avoiding. Start about 10m R of Ayesha, below the R most of two corners. Bridge delicately up to the dirty section which is followed by a V-chimney. Continue up the crack which curves L to a cave. 2. 15m As for the top of Locust Wing. Chimney up the back of the cave and exit up to the L. Chris Baxter, David Gairns 1.3.88
Cicada 33m 13
Starts R of Locust Wing. Up and traverse R to gain the ledge beneath the corner. Pass a dirty overhang and then follow the corner. Bill Andrews, Julie Tulloch February 1978
This series of buttresses is adjacent to the walking track that leads to The Pinnacle. They start past the top of Crock Wall. If you get this far, you have missed the turning off point for Dawn Wall and the Upper Cliff of The Goon.
Time from car: 30-35 minutes.
The climbs are described from R to L.
The first wall encountered has two tenuous lines on its L and a shallow corner on its R.
Hedgehog 25m 12
Awkward. The corner, stepping R at the roof. Ceri Law, Bill Andrews, Peter Watling 4.8.79
**Modern Dancing 15m 19
"Stop that sinful modern dancing Min." Elegant and clean, the line L of Hedgehog, when it peters out traverse L to the arete. Neil Barr, Peter Watling, Ceri Law 30.9.79
Direct Finish 18: Well protected. Chris Cope, Carol Robinson 19.5.89
Jumping Jack Flash 15m 21
Mind the ants. Starts 3m L of Modern Dancing. The shallow orange comer and straight up. Wayne Maher, James McIntosh, Glen Donohue, John. Pawson. 13.11.92
The Voyage Of The Beagle 25m 16
A fairly ordinary route that starts 5m L of Modern Dancing. Pull over the bulge and continue up the L hand groove. James and Melanie McIntosh January 1991
*The Transit Of Venus 30m 20
Very sustained climbing on good rock. Double ropes are required. Start on the front of the buttress down R of In Other Words and 10m R of a huge fallen tree. Up over weird bulges, passing the last one on the L, step R then leftwards up the wall to another bulge. Step R and go up using a diagonal line of good holds. James McIntosh, Melanie McIntosh 20.1.91
The Ascent Of Everest 30m 18
Surprisingly contrived. Start below the front of the buttress which In Other Words starts up. Up the slab, then the L edge of the steep buttress, with one move on the arete allowed. James and Melanie McIntosh 2.5.92
Wayne Gardener 26 m 19
Starts at a crack line 2 m L of a corner and In Other Words. Up the crack and step I onto the face between the two lines. Wayne Maher, Glen Donohue, James McIntosh 9.4.96
The One Bangla Missed 25 m 17
1 m L of In Other Words with the same start. Up the corner and through an overlap and up the wall above. Glen Donohue, Melanie McIntosh, Wayne Maher, James McIntosh 9.4.96
In Other Words 27m 15
Starts at the crack in the R wall of the corner. 1. 11m Up to belay amongst the bushes. 2. 16m Step L and follow the sickle, then up the crack. Move L then up just R of Sic Transit Gloria. Bill Andrews, Ceri Law Alt.Leads 8.12.79
*Sic Transit Gloria 26m 16
Interesting and varied. Starts on the ledge behind a large tree L of the corner. Up the wall, the flake and then the crack to the top. Peter Watling, Ceri Law, Bill Andrews 25.8.79
Thine Eyes 30m 18
Starts 5m L of Sic Transit Gloria. Up short corner to bulge, step L and up nice wall, tending R at the top. James and Melanie McIntosh 11.2.90
The Voyage Of Dum Tweedle 25m 8 (approx.)
The pleasant sharp arete 5m R of An Attack Of The Thunders, starting up the rib on the L. Melanie and James McIntosh 2.5.92
An Attack of the Thunders 25m 13
"You want to avoid it if you can." Move into the corner behind the large flake and follow the corner to the top. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews, Peter Jacob 10.3.79
The Harry Secombe Memorial Buttress 40m 15
Pleasant. The fat buttress left of An Attack Of The Thunders, starting down low. James and Melanie McIntosh 2.5.92
This small outcrop is clearly visible from the Mt.Victory Road (opposite the Elephants Hide) as the square cut buttress on the hillside west of the Elephants Hide. Potential is limited to the point of being non-existent. This area is reached by following either the walking track that starts near the tennis courts on the north side of the creek or initially following the Mackeys Peak walking track. When this track forks, follow the lower one which leads to Venus Baths which the Socropophiliac Buttress looks out over, continue past Venus Bath and along Stony Creek for a further 300m to the steep smooth R hand toe of The Elephants Hide. Just past the Elephant Hides climbs angle R up the hill to the crag which is 5 - 10 minutes walk above the creek.
Time from car: †25 minutes
Casting Couch †16m †20
Character building. Take big Friends for the roof. The climb takes the corner in the middle of the cliff and exits L around the final roof. †Chris Baxter, Kieran Loughran †28.6.92
Approach is as for Dawn Wall, but once you have left the track diverge up and left to arrive at the right hand end of the cliff.
Time from car: 35-40 minutes.
Descent: This is at the left hand end of the cliff and involves dropping down behind a large boulder and then a bit of down climbing to reach the ground.
The climbs are described from R to L.
Moriarty 25m 13
"A greasy French Count (une, deux, trois...?)". Starts on the wall at the far R hand end of the cliff, below, and L of a small sickle roof. Up the short groove to a ledge, R and up to another ledge just below the sickle. Up just R of this, back L a bit and as you will to the top. Bill Andrews, Neil Barr 29.9.79
The Invisible Acrobat 30m 13
Starts 10m R of First Men On The Moon at two small lines about 20cm apart. The lines, to a crack which leads to a shelf at 6m. Climb the wall going to the L of the bulge, then straight up. Allan Hope, Bill Andrews 27.11.82
Smileys Rumoured To Have Done It 20 m 1 8
Up to the bottom of the First Men On The Goon corner, through the steepening, then up the shallow orange corner line to the roof. Move R, then up easily. Wayne Maher, James McIntosh, Glen Donohue 9.4.96
First Men On The Goon 39m 9
First ascent on the cliff surprisingly enough. Starts below the big corner which is gained via the flake and L via the wall. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews, Peter Jacob 10.3.79
First Men Variant: grade 11. Follow First Men On The Moon and take the corner on the R which is difficult to protect, rejoin the original route in 10m or so. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling 5.11.79
Goon With The Wind 46m 12
Starts at the crack to the L of First Men. Up crack and pull through overlap to ledge. Follow arete until wall steepens. Move R and climb centre of wall via thin crack to top. Peter Watling, Peter Miles, November 1993
Pull Up A Bollard 41m 8
To the L of First Men On The Moon at a large leaning L facing corner, then the steep crack (past the bollard of the same name) to the top. Peter Jacob, Peter Watling, Bill Andrews 10.3.79
Sensual Caucasian Knee Dancing 43m 14
Starts as for Pull Up A Bollard. Up for 4m, then steeply through the weakness in the R wall to a small ledge. Traverse R to a corner and follow the easy angled L wall until it steepens, rejoin the corner. Up a thin crack to a ledge with a bush and some loose blocks, then the top. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling, Ceri Law 4.8.79
Bluebottle Blues 40m 14
Starts below a system of corners L of Sensual Caucasian Knee Dancing beneath a yellow roof. Climb to the roof which is overcome by carefully using the bush, up the grassy crack for 5 - 6m then take the corner on the R to the top. Bill Andrews, Ceri Law 8.12.79
A Quarter Of Jelly Babies 40m 16
"Every man has his price". Starts 2m L of Bluebottle Blues. Follow the widish crack and traverse R into Bluebottle Blues. Continue up the grassy crack past the jammed flake and up the corner. (Bluebottle Blues moves R after the grassy crack.) Bill Andrews, Ceri Law 1979
There Must Be A Cure 42m 11
Starts below a short yellow leaning corner L of Jelly Babies. Up through the yellow corner and where the wall steepens, through the weakness, R a bit and steeply onwards. Peter Jacob, Peter Watling, Bill Andrews 10.3.79
*Mrs. Fitzsimmons 20m 16
"Saturday 29th September, didst sport with Mrs. Fitzsimmons". One of Bangla's better efforts. The jagged crack on the steep wall 10m around L of There Must Be A Cure. Peter Watling, Ceri Law, Neil Barr, Bill Andrews 29.9.79
The Flea 14m 8
The chimney a few metres L of Mrs. Fitzsimmons, on the ledge. Ceri Law, Peter Watling, Bill Andrews 3.11.79
Herne 13m 11
The thin line next to The Flea. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews 5.11.79
Lurgi 11m 12
Climb the corner/crack just L of Herne. Simon Todman, Bill Andrews, Anna Niticiuk 23.4.89
Little Jim 23m 15
"He's fallen in da water". From next to the descent gully scramble up to the first belay of Insurance: ... Up the corner to the roof and follow the line to the top. Peter Watling, Ceri Law, Bill Andrews 3.11.79
Insurance: The White Mans Burden 35m 17
Approximately 30m L of the descent gully, below the only obvious line in the upper level of this section of the cliff. 1. 10m Climb the short crack, then R across the wall below the small orange headwall. Belay on the commodious ledge. 2. 25m Climb the arete and corner to the small roof. Hand traverse L and swing up. Continue in the line. Neil Barr, Bill Andrews 29.9.79
*John Snagg 31m 16
Starts as for Insurance: The White Mans Burden. 1. 21m Up the corner then to the roof via the R arete or the crack on the L. Continue up the corner to the next roof, traverse L underneath this and up to the next overhang. Step R and gain the wall. Belay at the base of the chimney. 2. 10m The chimney. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews - Alt. Leads - Ceri Law & Peter Treby 3.11.79
Thyne 39m 14
Starts approximately 90m L of John Snagg, past the overhangs, on a wall with a series of stepped roofs, at a series of flakes just L of centre. 1. 27m Up the flakes tending L to gain a ledge with a conifer. Step up, R, and continue around the bulge to gain the main wall. Move R to gain a thin groove, up this until level with a conifer in the gully, step R to this and belay. 2. 12m Rejoin the groove and follow it to the top. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling, Ceri Law 27.1.80 Could be done in one run-out if ropes are organised properly.
Thanks heaps Bill, excellent information. We made good use of it to have a good day on Crock Wall before the rain came. The twin conifers used as the markers for the first climbs have been burnt and have fallen over, but are still recognisable.
On 6/06/2014 JamesMc wrote:
>I was going to say RTFG but BA has uploaded most of it.
I figured there had to be a guide somewhere, but I hadn't seen one before this weekend. One of the only Grampians guides I don't have.
A good view of the cliff is to be had from the walking track on the way in; the track reaches the cliff between Dedication and The Grand Cappuccino.
Time from car: 20-30 minutes. It depends on which climb you are going to do.
Descent: Is easiest via the walking track that leads to the summit.
Climbs are described from right to left.
Transmutation 30m 20
The rock is very loose in places. Toward the right hand end of the cliff, some very large boulders lie near the face at an imposing diagonal leading up left. 1. 15m Up easily to belay beneath the diagonal roof. 2. 15m Follow the line up left (crux) to a ledge, then easily up for a few metres to belay on a ledge in the large scoop. Phillip Armstrong, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) & Tony Dignan 20.1.78 NB The first ascent party abseiled from a fixed nut at this belay. Future parties still havenít liked the look of the rightward leading traverse of seemingly modest protection.
Karen Alexander 87m 17
A corner topped by a big roof about 45-50m right of where the track meets the cliff. 1. 31m Climb the small shallow corner for 3m Bridge across to a small overhung ledge and layback into the overhanging corner above on rounded holds. Awkward moves lead to rounded holds. Up for 22m to belay at the base of the corner. 2. 31m (crux) Climb the right wall to belay at the base of the roof. 3. 25m Climb the juggy wall to the top. Chris Dewhirst, Phillip Stranger. (var) 9.7.67
Bernadette Grace 87m 17
A bit loose and rattles like a Melbourne tram. 1. 31m As for Karen Alexander. 2. 31m Take the corner that was cunningly avoided by the old foxes to the roof. Out along the roof, round the lip and up to an obvious belay. 3. 25m Scramble up as for Karen Alexander. John Smart, Norm Booth. (alt) 19.1.77
Dedication 93m 15,M4
They haven't found a cure for this climb, which is still afflicted by AIDS for many years now Twenty-five metres right of the track, where a crack splits a black bulge. 1. 34m (crux) scramble up and bridge around the bulge. Continue on rotten mossy rock to a bolt belay on the large ledge to the left. 2. 25m Climb the corner above to the roof and nail out along the wall until the crack runs out. Aid out under the roof and up an overhanging crack to a minute stance under an overhang. 3. 34m Around the bulge and up the crack on mossy rock to a large ledge and then easily to the top. Chris Dewhirst, Chris Baxter. (var) 13.4.68
The Grand Cappuccino 68m 26
This climb originally offered sensational climbing around enormous roofs on good aids. It has now been "freed", here is the original description (16,M4). Starts about 13m Left of the track. (1) 38m Climb the thin crack to a rotten ramp, which is climbed until the wall steepens. Continue up the crack to a horizontal weakness. Move 10m right to belay on a sloping ledge. (2) 16m Move left then up the crack to the roof and a hanging belay. The first part of this pitch is mainly free. (3) 14m The roof to the top. Geoff Gledhill, Mike Stone. (alt) 7.6.70 Some aid was eliminated by Glen Tempest in 1976.
Here is the description of The Grand Cappuccino in its free state, as it appeared in ARGUS. "This free version of the old aid route...is about the closest thing to a sea cliff classic that the Grampians have to offer. 1. 35m (25) Follow the crack fairly easily to a small alcove with a bolt. Traverse rightwards on friable choss to a good ledge up right. Friends from #1 - #4 are useful. 2. 35m (26) Move back left and up the guano-filled corner to a bomber nut 2m below the main roof. Traverse left along a horizontal break around the nose to a hard mantle onto the wall above. Move back right to a small seat below the final roof, which should prove amusing!" Kim Carrigan, Steve Monks. 31.1.86
Mocca 60m(?) 17
Starts 3m right of Nemesis at a corner. 1. 30m The line through two overhangs to a dead tree. Move left to belay at the bolt on the second belay of Nemesis. 2. 30m As for Nemesis pitch three, which is 21m! Peter Treby, M. Woods 4.11.84
Mocca Alternative Finish 30m 16
Very frightening, loose rock. Climb the arÍte, starting from the belay bolt on Nemesis/Mocca. Stephen Hamilton, Graeme Owers. 4.6.95
Nemesis 46m 19
A climb of deceptive steepness. Starts 3m left of Mocca. 1. 12m Up the corner on delicate rock and spring(!) right to a sloping ledge. Continue up the crack and surmount the arete. Climb the corner to a sentry box, then out right to a small ledge and a bolt belay. 2. 13m Climb the twin cracks to a chimney that is followed to a bolt belay. Move left into the main chimney. 3. 21m Move up the chimney to a blockage. Move out right on ledges to a large ledge. Climb the overhang by a crack to the top. Roger Caffin, Clive Parker, Bruno Zielke. 15.12.68
The Force Jeremy, Use The Force! 65m 24
1. 35m (22) An undercut start leads up and a little right. Back up left around a bulge into the corner. Follow this to 2 FHB beneath the roof. 2. 30m (23/24) The diagonal crack out left under the roof to awkward exit. Jeremy Boreham, Kevin Lindorff. (alt) January 1994
Peccadillos 35m 22
Start as for The Force, Jeremy Use The Force! then continue up the wall on the right past 2 FHs to the 2 FHB of The Force, Jeremy Use The Force! Kevin Lindorff, Jeremy Boreham, January 1994
Manolete 46m 8
Start 50m left of Nemesis. Climb the 5m slab to the base of a deep chimney. Continue towards the back of the chimney then climb directly upward. At about 30m traverse right under the chockstone and scramble to the top. Phillip Stranger. Solo. 16.4.67
Psychotic Reaction 46m 8
Starts behind a rock 6m left of Manolete. Follow the steepening rock to a large ledge at 10m Traverse 2m right and follow the obvious line until the overhang is passed. Move into the main line, which is followed to the top. Phillip Stranger. Solo. 16.4.67
The Aphrodisiac 60m 14
Starts 8m left of Psychotic Reaction. 1. 22m (crux) Climb the crack or miniature buttress to a ledge at 6m Climb the prominent overhang to belay on a ledge on the right wall of the chimney. 2. 38m Follow the chimney to the top. Phillip Stranger, Daryl Carr. (alt) June 1967
The Trog 68m 10
Starts 12m left of The Aphrodisiac. 1. 31m Climb the rounded crack to the base of the chimney. Up this for 10m to a ledge and a tree. Continue up to where the crack narrows and steepens to belay in the back of the crack. 2. 37m Climb the corner crack for 15m to a ledge and follow the wider line to the top. FRA Derek Lord, Chris Baxter. (alt) 9.7.67
*The Fiddler 62m 20
Starts 5m left of The Trog at a flake crack. Scramble up to the roof to belay. 1. 37m Climb the roof and continue up the crack to a shallow scoop. Move right and up the chimney. 2. 25m Either finish as for The Trog or continue up and make it an independent climb. Chris Dewhurst, Bruno Zielke (alt) 20.12.69 FFA John Smart, Norm Booth 19.1.77 Independent finish: Peter Treby, S. Webb. 14.10.84
*Righteous 43m 16
Starts 50m left of The Fiddler. 1. 18m (crux) Jamming and laybacking take you past a roof, an overhanging corner and an overhang to deposit you on a good belay ledge. 2. 25m As for Rimbaud. Phillip Stranger, Chris Dewhirst. (alt) 9.7.67
*Rimbaud 53m 9
Supposedly an enjoyable climb and incorrectly known as Rimband for many years. Starts 3m left of The Righteous in the middle crack that merges into a chimney at 19m Climb past the two chockstones to a ledge. Move right into the bottomless v-chimney crack and up this until an easy scramble leads to the top. Phillip Stranger. Solo. 16.4.67
Jagger 74m 9
Starts 10m left of Rimbaud beneath the wide crack. 1. 37m Climb up to and up the wide crack, pass a large chockstone and up to belay. 2. 37m Continue up the line past a steep section to a big bush on a ledge and straight up to the top. Derek Lord, Chris Baxter. (alt) 9.7.67
*Second Choice 30m 16
Climb Jagger until the start of the overhang at 18m. Move right along the finger crack for 5m until you can reach up to a large jug under the lip of the overhang. Move slightly right and pull awkwardly over the lip on rounded mossy holds. Continue, belaying as for Jagger and finishing up that climb. Carl Karancsay, Gerald Gierer, Trevor Fiske. 25.4.86
St Elmo's Fur 15m 26
A sports climb that stays dry in all weather. Deceptively steep and easy for the grade (?). Climb the overhung groove/scoop-line 20m right from the left hand end of the cliff. Seven BRs lead to a rap station. Mike Law, Stephen Hamilton, Peter Woolford. 20.4.92
Lacking only the height, the position and the grandeur of the original this little pinnacle is found by following The Pinnacle walking track to the south end of Mackey's Peak and then taking the summit track towards a small col. The tower is on the L just before the col, or on the R just after the col as you descend from Mackeys.
Time from car: 25 - 30 minutes
Descent: Down the south side of the pinnacle, just below the summit rock.
Climbs are described from R to L.
Hats Off to Egger 22m 9
Blown away? Start up crack in south face 5m left of southeast arete. Step right from crack at 4m and climb middle of face. David Gairns, Michael Stone 24.10.98
My Friend Flicker 15m 19/20
The arete 12m R of Inklings Of Glory . Peter Woolford, Stephen Hamilton 20.4.92
Cerro Torre 15m 14
Climb My Friend Flickerís arete, keeping to R side. My Friend Flicker presumably (given the grade) keeps L. James McIntosh, Mick Jennings 7.6.97
Night Shift Blues 20m 15
Starts at the ]easing corner lm R of Inklings Of Glory. Up the corner to step L to climb the orange bulge and up. Jeremy Borham, Mike Wust, Hillary Lloyd 26.7.93
*Inklings Of Glory 21m. 14
Starts on the front of the pinnacle (eastern side) at a corner which is obvious from the track. Scramble up to belay on the large ledge. The corner, moving onto the R wall just below the top. Bill Andrews, Barry Edwards, Ian Kerton, Tony Jowitt 23.1.77
Ages Ago 20m 7
Up First Blood to the roof, move L onto the main face and up over some bulges near the top. Gerald Giere, Carl Karacsay October 1986
**First Blood 24m. 10
Starts 4m L of Inklings Of Glory. The corner to the roof, step R, up then back L after the roof and follow the arete over the bulge to the top. Ian Kerton, Barry Edwards, Desley Edwards, Tony Jowitt, Bill Andrews 23.1.77
Spirit Of The Anzacs 22m 15
Start as for First Blood, at the roof move R onto the easy angled face. Follow the steepening wall up to the L of the dead tree. Move strenuously up the middle of the overhanging face on wide holds, avoiding the flaky rock. Gerald Gorier, Carl Karacsay, Trevor Fiske 25.4.87
Wallflower 24m 12
Starts as for First Blood but lacks that climb's class. Up for a few metres then veer slightly L, then R to a break in the bulge, through this to the top. Bill Andrews, Allan Hope 27.11.82
I've found some B&W photos but they were early (unsuccessful) experiments with variable contrast paper. First up shows the relationship with Dawn Wall and Crock Wall with the whereabouts of Ayesha shown.
Ayesha is a quite prominent corner with a 2m roof near its base. The photo shows Julie Tulloch leading the second ascent back in 1977.
Continue along The Pinnacle walking track past the Goon Lower Cliffs. At either the native cherry at the first bit of zigzag encountered, find a cairn in the gully and continue straight up following more cairns, or continue on to the next zigzag section. At a large eucalypt with a massive main trunk and three smaller ones, head north 30m to a cairn. This is one of the cairns mentioned earlier, turn left and up to the cliff.
Time from car: 45-50 minutes.
Descent: Way, way, way to the left (south) until its possible to scramble back onto the track.
Climbs are described from left to right.
Green Light 25m 15
A relatively impenetrable cliff runs right from below Frenchmanís Beret for some hundreds of metres below Signal Peakís assorted chossy walls. Left end of this is a continuous overhang. Immediately right of this overhang, about 70m right of Frenchmanís Beret, is a major slab leaning against cliff (landmark). From top of this slab climb crack for 4m, then traverse right to corner. Up this to ledge with large gum. Finish up tricky wall above. Geoff Gledhill, Chris Baxter, Kieran Loughran. 9.6.97
Dot Dot Desh 50m 13
The bottom of the climb wanders around a fair bit with the intention of climbing the corner up high. This corner is visible from the walking track from the vicinity of the southern end of Mackeys Peak. and also, more closely, from near the big tree mentioned above. It starts about 10m right of where you reach the cliff, cairned. 1. 25m Up with a lot of meandering to reach the base of the corner. A light coloured bush growing almost horizontally gives you some idea where to aim. 2. 25m Gain the corner, then the top. Bill Andrews, Peter Watling Alt.Leads Autumn 1979
Heliograph 45m 16
About 200m left of Dot Dot Desh, at a cairn just left of a slightly vegetated chimney line up high. Up the crack to the obvious horizontal, move right and up (crux) to join the chimney. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews, Ceri Law October 1979
Deshpatch 50m 12
Starts about 30-40m left of Heliograph, at a cairn with a stick stuck in it. 1. 45m Up the left hand line to the lower diagonal, then follow it up left to belay a short corner. 2. 5m The corner. Peter Watling, Bill Andrews Alt.Leads November 1979
Signal Failure 50m 17
Donít be derailed. This cliff has vast amounts of lichen and juggy friable rock. Signal Failure certainly has its share, but tackles some of the more impressive architecture here. 1. 25m (crux) Line 4m right of Deshpatch, At 15m go up right on yellow wall to turn overhang by crack on its right side. Continue up crack to ceiling. 2. 25m Traverse left under roof, then follow arching sickle up left eventually to join last part of Deshpatch. Chris Baxter, Kieran Loughran (alt), Geoff Gledhill. 9.6.97