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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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VIC Grampians Northern Hollow Mountain & Surrounds (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Tyrants Grasp

4:23:40 PM
I'm keen to have a crack at this in the next couple of weeks, but am assuming that at this time of year it might be quite damp.
Has had a look at this route recently? If so, was it in climable condition?

4:36:55 PM
If you had asked yesterday i woudl have said it was fine - however with todays rain i imagine it woudl be
fairly wet. The bottom 4m section is the only bit that really suffers from the waterfall - the holds are pretty
giant so you can still climb it when its wet. Best to do something else (Terminal Insomnia, Midnight
Soiled and All the Way to Eleven are also good grade 22 sport routes in the area)
4:37:25 PM
Probably not worth the effort as the pockets at the start will be wet. The 23/24 next door "Sting like a bee" is definently a goodie at this time of year though...
11:29:46 AM
It would mostly be quite climbable throughout winter...too bad that Horsham's just had more rain in the last 24 hours than in the preceding month!

But with fine weather forecast it might be back in condition by saturday afternoon or sunday morning. And there's others to do nearby if you're out of luck.

Not that there's much competition (!), but it's close to the best 22 sport route in the state, despite the inexplicable bolting at the end.
11:42:03 AM
On 25/08/2006 WM wrote:

>despite the inexplicable bolting at the end.

Care to elaborate?

12:06:16 PM
Anchor placed mid moves (cruxy!) with an additional 4m of worthwhile climbing above it (?)
1:35:33 PM
the last bolt is 1-2m left of where it should be, if you follow that line its about 6-8 extra moves and quite a hard last match. The far better line is 2 moves direct over the bulge at consistent difficulty to the rest of the route, but this line is not very obvious because of the bolt being well to your left! This is doubly annoying considering that the buttress up there has 'room' for another route/variant but this one bolt crowds the potential new line.

And yes the anchor is too low also.
1:45:16 PM
Thanks Neil and Will for the explanation.

There are 8 messages in this topic.


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