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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Southwest You Yangs Drysdale Road Environs (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ] 

Author
3 bolts on Lust buttress?

stephan
6/08/2006
10:57:06 AM
does anyone know what the 3 bolts in between "lust we forget" and "lust or bust" are??
any grades?
it's quite thin, but nice!?

cheers stephan
dalai
6/08/2006
11:04:59 AM
Hi Stephan

Route is -

Lust For Life 12m 21
Starts at the faint vertical seam immediately Left of
Lust We Forget. Direct up the seam and the steepening,
featured wall. 3FH.

Martin Lama 19/02/2006

Also did a variant finish to Lust or Bust.

Lust or Bust RHV 12m 18

Offers a more sustained conclusion to Lust or Bust. From the FH on
Lust or Bust. Take the thin right leading diagonal
seam to Lust For Life's last FH. Step right again then up.

Martin Lama 19/02/2006

It's been a very long time since I've been on a rope, so I would be interested in your take on the grade.

stephan
6/08/2006
11:59:42 AM
i found it a very nice route, maybe a bit hard for a 21. it is certainly harder then the 22 on the other side (a labour of lust).
did you went straight up the face, or did you moved slightly left @ the 2. bolt? straight up is very thin for a 21.
but nice work martin, it's hard to find good routes in the youies! or let's say it this way, routes worth bringing a rope along!

see ya
stephan
dalai
6/08/2006
8:09:43 PM
Immediately left of the 2nd bolt is a 'dish' with side pull on it's right edge. I sidepulled and highstepped my left foot into the dish and reached the diagonal seam directly above.

I have been spending a bit of time bouldering out around Drysdale rd after John the Pom posted photos and emailed me details a while back of the area. During these bouldering trips I was surprised to see this unclimbed line on Lust Buttress, so dusted the cobwebs off my harness and drill!

I went out this afternoon for a boulder - saw a bit of chalk on the climbs - guessing you were out there yesterday?

Actually have an eye on a fair number of low to high 20's worthwhile looking lines I've noticed over the years still to go throughout the park...

stephan
7/08/2006
11:12:49 AM
what is with that big buttress in the gully? i think it is next to the mushroom thing! it is a big square-like thing, it's got a nice face on one or two sides! and have you been up on the hill, past lust buttress? we didn't went up there, but it looks awesome!
dalai
7/08/2006
12:13:14 PM
On 7/08/2006 stephan wrote:
>what is with that big buttress in the gully?

Bit inbetween sizes... Too short really for routes but to high and poor landing for bouldering (for me anyway). John did a boulder problem on the back left arete of the biggest block of the three. It's the only thing done so far on these blocks as far as I'm aware.

>and have you been up on the hill, past lust buttress?

Scattered boulders continue up the steep slope above, with the biggest concentration over the top at the Brevity boulders - facing the quarry. Easiest to get to by continuing up the gully above the big blocks. With nice views and grassy landings, it offers some nice easier boulder problems.

Of a side note, it appears the quarry area is seeing more activity recently as a landfill site and that the access road is freshly graded. So best continue with a low profile on this hill.

There are 6 messages in this topic.

 

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