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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
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VIC Grampians Northern Hollow Mountain & Surrounds (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Tribute Wall Lower
11:07:35 AM
On 8/10/2013 nmonteith wrote:

>>With regards to Maiden China, we thought it's a bit dangerous, especially
>>for gym climbers between 2 and 3, not between 1 and 2. This is just an
>>opinion, a feedback.
>I think if you fell off you would fall down the 'pit' anyway. No ground
>to hit!

You could be cushioned by the pile of poo ...

My short person clipping tip is to carry a draw that is reinforced with a stick or PVC pipe and the top biner held fast by tape. You can push the biner against the bolt from the end of the draw and clip any bolts that would otherwise be another sketchy move to reach.
11:15:15 AM
On 8/10/2013 pecheur wrote:
>On 7/10/2013 kieranl wrote:
>>Do gyms teach people any tricks for clipping when close to ledges? A
>>technique is to have a sling clipped to the draw and clip the sling before
>>clipping the draw to minimise how much rope is out at any time. That
>>is much more portable than an extra bolt on one climb.
>I'd never learnt, heard, seen or read about this trick until I watched
>Superstu do this on some grade 20 at the Ravine the Christmas break before
Obviously Superstu is a man after my own heart, morbidly fearful of hurting himself.

11:22:32 AM
Here is some quality stick clippin a carrot on the weekend -

11:36:12 AM
On 8/10/2013 Wendy wrote:
>On 7/10/2013 kp wrote:
>>On 7/10/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>>>There is however, a large pile of (I assume human) feces to the right of the start of route #7. :-/
>>Man, this is so disappointing. I really do have mixed feelings about the increased numbers (of idiots) that sport climbing brings.....
>I'm glad that wasn't there when I was.

It probably was. It's been there quite a while, since at least the 20th of September. It doesn't have a nice white flag on it so unless you know it's there (or were there when it was still ripe) you'd hopefully/probably miss it. If people want to check on its slow decaying progress, it's against the base of the cliff just right of where you walk down to the lower 3 routes.

Quite amazing how long this stuff takes to break down, even with all the rain we've had of late.
One Day Hero
12:33:29 PM
On 7/10/2013 kp wrote:
>Man, this is so disappointing. I really do have mixed feelings about
>the increased numbers (of idiots) that sport climbing brings.....

I don't understand the mixed feelings, kp. Good rock is a limited resource and packing extra people in degrades the experience for everyone. Introduce climbing to your good mates, cool and enthusiastic strangers who make an effort to get involved, and pretty girls........everyone else can g.f.t. Climbers who prostitute the rock in order to make a quick buck, or to get "famous", should be treated with the disdain they deserve.
1:30:12 PM
On 8/10/2013 nmonteith wrote:
>Is there anything in the guide that confused you? It seems reasonably
>clear on the topo and descriptions. The guide does show incorrect number
>of lower-off anchors though. Jet, By Jovi and Midnight Soiled all share
>the same anchor.

Now I understand what happened. We were moving left to right, routes 6-5 were taken, then we saw 2 lines of bolts going straight up, the left of them did not have a top anchor. So we thought it can't be Midnight Soiled. The next one to the right was clearly going straight up not veering so it could not have been Midnight Soiled either. So we weren't sure and asked a few passers by, none of them could identify the route, but somebody suggested it's a 19 and they climbed it before. So gave it a try climbing pretty much straight up running out of strength and resting on bolts 2,3,4. It did indeed went to the right at the top. Obviously, this was not a guidebook fault, we should have had a better look at the wall... but it was fun climbing a 19 and discovering that Tribute Wall grading must have been different from what I'm used to.

>I think if you fell off you would fall down the 'pit' anyway. No ground
>to hit!


2:26:12 PM
The bolts on Midnight Soiled are in a straight line - but the climbing weaves around to the left and to the right of the bolts. If you try and 'force' the line direct it is much harder.

2:44:08 PM
Indeed. While In Halen has a distinct leftwards trend to the bolting.
10:58:45 PM
Wow, I didn't know I could make money prostituting rock. I'm going to give that a go.

Thanks odh!
One Day Hero
11:07:59 PM
Sure can Doug, check out Simon and Neil charging fifty bucks for a book full of misprints....chaching ;)
12:10:17 PM
I was thinking more of winching young men into place to 'relieve themselves' in the suggestively shaped pocket on The Honeymoon Is Over for $500/hr (sorry Malcolm I know it's a good route but it doesn't get done very often. So to speak.).

Seriously you odh you need to write a guidebook (could I suggest The ACT: Selected Runout Slabs? Licence to print money.) They are a heap of work, very hard to get everything right, and everyone seems to assume they are an absolute goldmine. They aren't. With all the research, layout and distribution your hourly rate ends up around McDonalds wages. Given that Neil would earn ten times as much in his job it's basically a community service from him. I'm happy and excited to have a new Gramps guide. It's fun, and it seems pretty accurate to me.

Moreover, it scuttles the evil Mentz/Tempest media empire that has had us in it's clutches for decades now. I live next to Simey and sometimes I can't get out of the driveway for all the Lamborghinis, superyachts, empty Dom Perignon bottles and botoxed blondes littering the street. He doesn't even leave his spa these days, just sends a runner to get him a pack of sausages from the milk bar each evening. Now that is living.

4:28:01 PM
On 7/10/2013 kp wrote:
>On 7/10/2013 ajfclark wrote:
>>There is however, a large pile of (I assume human) feces to the right
>>the start of route #7. :-/
>Man, this is so disappointing. I really do have mixed feelings about
>the increased numbers (of idiots) that sport climbing brings.....

Perhaps it was just someone's way of expressing their opinion of the route. :-)

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
There are 32 messages in this topic.


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