Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Black Diamond: 120cm Nylon Runner. (Open sewn sling) 18mm wide nylon. Assorted colours. Awesome value IMO.   $8.00
20% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Best 10-15s at Araps
armyiain
23/06/2006
6:34:45 PM
In a similiar vein to the 'Best 17 at Araps' thread, I am keen to consolidate at these grades as I haven't been climbing in a while. I can't wait for my 5 day trip to Araps (pity its in July though!) I have previously done Muldoon, Trapeze, Bard, Xena, Syrinx, Arachnus, Decibel, D Minor, Piccolo, Agamemmnon umm..some others too, but forget the names right now. So they're all out. I am reasonably comfortable on 14s. What else should I be aiming at? What 15s around are the good ones? Also, is Watchtower Crack a particularly hard 16? What is the pro like at the crux?


sticky
23/06/2006
6:44:47 PM
To answer one of your questions -

Bulger - Bluffs. Good exposure, well protected.
Resignation - Tiger Wall. Outrageous fun.






Super Saiyan
23/06/2006
7:17:01 PM
I'll second the recommendation for Resignation- so much fun! Brilliant!
gfdonc
23/06/2006
8:28:42 PM
Lamplighter? 14, back of the Pharos, it's quite a classic, have done it twice and enjoyed it both times, but converrsely last time I wondered what the fuss was about. Nice climbing with an odd third pitch, then the best free rap at Araps to get off (take 2 ropes).
P1 is easy (10?), p2 is the action, p2 involves chimneying out through a 5m roof!

Also CS Concerto on Organ Pipes, 2 pitches, great climbing and pro on p1, p2 is super, super fun with the crux early then easy but exposed climbing. Very enjoyable, uunnderrated IMHO.

For another long route, Kaiser (12) on Tiger Wall.

pharmamatt
24/06/2006
12:30:43 AM
i don't think lamplighter would be that much fun in the middle of winter (read shade all day). though hot flap (14) on left watchtower face is nice

Eduardo Slabofvic
24/06/2006
12:47:46 PM
Stife on the Gravey Train (14), Central Gulley Left, on a sunny winters day.

sliamese
24/06/2006
7:51:55 PM
i thought Watchtower Crack was reasonable for the grade. not hard not soft. unless you have large cams (size 4+) the last pitch is interesting off the belay. you step off the belay and climb to a bolt about 4m up with little gear in between.

an awesome climb, great exposure and awesome fun!
spicelab
24/06/2006
9:44:18 PM
dare i say it, pedro is tops, it just has a wee bit of a chequerd (recent) history, but you'll be fine if it's not at your limit and you're not over-zealous

DaCrux
24/06/2006
10:51:38 PM
On 23/06/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>For another long route, Kaiser (12) on Tiger Wall.
I think Kaiser is a 15, good climb though. Kestrel is a really interesting 3 dimensional climb and you can rap down. Beautiful Possibilities (15), next to Pedro, is wicked. Gecko (14) is great if you like slabs but a bit run out. Panzer (12) is a nice multi-pitch route with a bit of everything (slab, corner crack, overhang, and jugs). Eskimo Nell (10) is a really easy 5 pitch route.
armyiain
25/06/2006
12:29:16 AM
Haven't I read that Beautiful Possiblities is a bit fiddly with the gear?

tmarsh
25/06/2006
3:26:06 PM
Don't believe everything you read. It takes bomber small wires and cams all the way up. Very well protected.
patto
25/06/2006
4:13:30 PM
On 25/06/2006 armyiain wrote:
>Haven't I read that Beautiful Possiblities is a bit fiddly with the gear?

On 25/06/2006 tmarsh wrote:
>Don't believe everything you read. It takes bomber small wires and cams
>all the way up. Very well protected.

I believe you are both right. As the guidebook says it has "good but intricate pro".

Having climbed it myself I would agree. The pro is there but I had to work at it a bit so I was happy with it. More experienced climbers might not have any problems but I don't think it is the best climb to recommend to people of lesser skill/experience.

My max lead is a 17 but Beutiful Possibilities is the scariest lead I have done, even the second time I did it I was pretty nervous. The bit that has got me nervous is only about 4-5m off the ground, but scary nonetheless.

Great climb tho! :-)


Oh and my recomendations:
Lamplighter, 14: Probably one of my favourites, great climbing, great exposure
Long Hair and Great Coats, 14: A novelty that involves a squeeze behind a big chockstone
Mr Hyde, 15: Quite a tough looking climb and a bit steep too. If you have a bunch of big hexes then the protection is absolutely bomber.


:-( All this talk makes with want to go climbing... I was supposed to head down this week, but something came up.

gfdonc
25/06/2006
5:49:35 PM
On 24/06/2006 DaCrux wrote:
>On 23/06/2006 gfdonc wrote:
>>For another long route, Kaiser (12) on Tiger Wall.
>I think Kaiser is a 15, good climb though. Kestrel is a really interesting
>3 dimensional climb and you can rap down.

Yeah, sorry, I was referring to Kestrel (12).
prb
25/06/2006
10:56:00 PM
Ckinell, Charybdis and Toccata are each a good test at 14, although I admit the first two aren't exactly winter climbs. Sundance is perfect for a sunny winter morning.

One step L of Charybdis is Scylla. If you can get up that, you'll get up most 15s at the Mount (and most 16s too!) It can be stitched up.
Fool in the Rain
26/06/2006
9:43:15 AM
Just follow the stars in theMentz/Tempest guide and you should enjoy yourself.
I try and plan days to get the most stars, longest climbs with the least walking inbetween. Even the low grade routes can be fantasticly enjoyable and sometimes make you think.
I good day on the Right Watchtower Face is Panzer, followed by Mantle and then Brolga. That way the climbs progressively harder and hopefully you'll get dialled in.
I found Watchtower Crack a bit scary but a fantastic experience. Even with big cams the first few metres of pitch 4 are unprotected.
I thought Agent Orange was a little over rated at two stars.
A good combo is Kaiser pitch 1 followed by Resignation.

I always have great memories of Araps as having great, solid jugs and loads of pro but when I get back there it dissolves into polished bulgy rock with small slippy edges and fiddly pro...

Just be a little cautious of grade 15s at Araps. They seem to result in the most number of deaths.
JDB
26/06/2006
10:26:42 AM
For a nice single pitcher, I'd highly recommend Hell for Leather.
Great stances, great pro, jug city and a rap off !! (as for Muldoon station n.b 2 X 50m )
Ideal for building confidence at the grade.

I would also suggest the first pitch of Libretto combined with the second pitch of C.S Concerto for a classic 15/14 combo.
Fool in the Rain
26/06/2006
12:01:17 PM
I climbed the Libretto/C.S. Concerto combo last year during one of the inevitable Araps thunderstorms. I think I got lured off route on the second pitch by booty (a nut in a horizontal break which I couldn't get out) and finished the arete moves on soaking rock with water in all the jugs. That felt a bit exciting, a bit of rope drag, cold hands and I don't recall the pro being brilliant.
Nottobetaken
26/06/2006
12:32:44 PM
Toccata is great at 14, though I don't know what the gears like. Loyalty out on Charity Buttress is really good at the same grade - highly recommended. The Bishop (11) over on Mitre is worth the trip - varied face climbing and quite exposed, especially on the final section. Sundance (14) on Watchtower Left is brilliant is you like slabs, and if you haven't done it and your in the area - go for Siren Direct Finish (12) on the Pinnacle Face - technical and totally out there - especillay at the crux layback. If you want to climb a grade 10 that has you pulling a roof whilst being 80m off the deck - then have a go at Aphrodite - pretty exciting - just left of Tiptoe Ridge.

tnd
26/06/2006
2:47:37 PM
On 24/06/2006 sliamese wrote:
>i thought Watchtower Crack was reasonable for the grade. not hard not soft.
>unless you have large cams (size 4+) the last pitch is interesting off
>the belay. you step off the belay and climb to a bolt about 4m up with
>little gear in between.
It's better if the P3 leader climbs past the belay to clip that bolt, then downclimbs to the belay. That will prevent any chance of a Factor 2 fall when the P4 leader sets off (assuming you are switching leads), and also means that the bolt can be used as part of the anchor, which is pretty marginal (in my opinion at any rate).

If doing the above, the P3 leader should put the rope though the bolt's quick draw the "wrong" way for leading, so that it will be the "right" way for the new leader.
Ronny
26/06/2006
5:45:38 PM
On 26/06/2006 tnd wrote:
>It's better if the P3 leader climbs past the belay to clip that bolt,
>then downclimbs to the belay. That will prevent any chance of a Factor
>2 fall when the P4 leader sets off (assuming you are switching leads),
>and also means that the bolt can be used as part of the anchor, which is
>pretty marginal (in my opinion at any rate).

Don't let the belay put you off - it was 'beefed up' last year with the addition of a couple of pegs and is now bomber.
Climbing past it to the bolt is still a good idea though.

J

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 32
There are 32 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints