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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

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First 17 lead at araps

Nick Kaz
11:51:10 AM
How about I'm a little asteroid? Graded 18 it would only be 16 in the mountains so you can call it 17? Stacks of gear, good fun and away from the crowds. The 15 below it is stacks harder...

1:10:34 PM
On 21/06/2006 shiltz wrote:
>Is Prelate the one with the peanut shaped jug?

Thats the one! I recall wrapping a sling around the penut whilst I hung from it.

1:25:16 PM
On 20/06/2006 Matt78 wrote:
>as for surface to air, is has a difficult start that is hard to protect
>and if you fall you're likely to do your ankle on a crappy landing.

Yeah, i would not reccommend it as a first 17..

Two good 17s I have found would be Dirge and Swinging. Dirge has very good pro, and great stances to place it from, it just repeats being a couple of hard moves, than a good stance to place gear, etc etc. The crux is at the top, not much harder than what you have done, just looks a bit more difficult.

Swinging, classic 17 face climb, bolt protected, short and sweet


8:32:07 PM
swinging is an awousme first 17 lead, bomber gear for first couple of m, then bolts, also bolts at top to rap off, was my first 17!

1:07:52 AM
i think you mean Aardvark, its graded 18 and is awesome! it was my second route at araps, when we rapped off after D minor i had to do it!!
3:53:16 AM
nah, swinging is on castle crag and has rap chains at the top to get off (derr!) which also make setting up belay an absolute cinch!!
9:03:26 PM
thanks for all your suggestions.. many climbs have been suggested

but i think i have narrowed the list down to...
swinging, spellbinder and dirge...

for starters!

10:16:33 PM
Yea i say Swinging, for a walk in the park, still a fantastic morning climb before it's time to scurry into the shade!! I loved it.

My first 17 was at Black Ians Rocks, so if ur looking for an awesome day out head over there. I did Supeona, a sweet corner hand crack. the gear is also very good. although u have to like cracks a little...

other than that i can't suggest much more as that was my limit when i ran out of time at Araps :( sigh counting the days till i can run free over there at the end of the year!!

10:45:52 PM
I always thought Spellbinder was 16, guess i really should upgrade my Kimbo guide one day!!

11:09:16 PM
Give 17 a miss and head on to Cassandra, Aardvark or Golden Echo.....

Ok.. maybe not Golden echo....but even #'s are the only way to go.
12:03:35 PM
Aardvark, is sweet, with a nice technical crux at the top on good gear.

Dr Box
5:25:39 PM
yeah stentor was the one.
short but sweet

6:41:43 PM
Preludes is pretty cruisy for a first lead at the grade from memory. Also...
Swinging 17 Castle Crag
Surface To Air 17 The Atridae..
all get my votes. I had a friend do Swinging as his first 17 lead yesterday and he loved it!
11:08:42 AM
anyone done crescendo (next to d minor) doesnt seem to have mentioned thus far..
12:59:26 PM
On 27/06/2006 darkxst wrote:
>anyone done crescendo (next to d minor) doesnt seem to have mentioned thus

Some nice climbing with an exciting finish, but not sustained at the grade.
ie. a little discontinuous
5:34:25 PM
Golliwog's cakewalk (17) Central Gully Left, near The Stoat Steps Out (18).

Nice slab climbing with lots of gear and good stances. I very rarely onsight at this grade but found this
climb straightforward and fun. (I'm sure it should be downgraded for the next edition!)

7:21:01 PM
My first 17 at araps was around at Cheops Buttress, The only way to fly... From memory it was short, sweet and cruisy... But I am with the majority on Swinging and Dirge for straight forward ticks.. But, Surface to air and Moby dick are classics, maybe not straight up??? But are must do's...
3:55:54 PM
On 27/06/2006 darkxst wrote:
>anyone done crescendo (next to d minor) doesnt seem to have mentioned thus

Not bad only one tricky, greasy move at the start of the second pitch.

9:41:57 AM
On 20/06/2006 Boardlord wrote:
>I would thoroughly recommend Oceanoid (both pitches) - very rewarding,
>quite technical with a bit of everything, with some intricate (but good)
>gear and a lot of atmosphere.
>If you want something a bit more butch but with straightforward gear -
>(and depending on your love of cracks) you might like to try Mari.
>Lastly, you should go and try Vandal in Intrepid Gully - 2 pitches of
>13/14 on brilliant rock to a nice ledge, then a great 'open book' corner
>(the start being the crux). Stemming 70m off the deck right at the top
>should bring a smile to your face. The gear is great as well.

Just dredging up this old thread. I realise that Boardlord is a strong climber, climbing well beyond 17, but I thought for the record (just in case anyone ever uses the search function looking for suggestions) that I would disagree with him on a couple of his suggestions. I agree that Oceanoid might be agood one and is pretty well protected if you don't rush through at the crux on P1, but I suggest that if you get this clean then you wouldn't struggle with any of the other 17s.

Mari has an awkward start, with very slick rock and genuine fall potential onto that gully/ledgey thing added to by the position of the belay which generally means outwards forces on your first pieces and a little more rope out than you would generally welcome. If you place good gear and, again, don't rush the crux then Mari is OK.

I generally feel extremely comfortable on 17s at Araps but yesterday my partner and I backed off the crux of Vandal. I would not recommend this climb to anyone as a first 17. I realise the grade has gone up over time but the moves off the second belay are awkward and very quickly become on ledge fall. A fall off those moves would conceivably result in sprained or broken ankles in a poorly accessible location.

I would opt for Maximus or Dirge (can belay from gully - just make sure noone is kicking down stones from red wall) as a first 17.

Then again I am a bit of a safety freak.

9:56:04 AM
Speaking of 17s, I really enjoyed Garden Gnome...

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There are 90 messages in this topic.


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