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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All TAS (General) (General) (General)  

Author
Looking to borrow Tassie guidebook

shortman
31/10/2012
11:08:44 AM
And thanks for your awesome guidebook.

rodw
31/10/2012
11:40:53 AM
Public verbal slanging aside.......Gotta say putting up new routes isn't a good measure of the size of someone climbing importance....TBH ppl who put up new routes are doing it for themselves and is hardly a feather in ones bow for credibility...getting a thanks from someone is nice, expecting kudos for it is pretty lame however IMHO
Will_P
31/10/2012
11:46:21 AM
I don't know, I appreciate the effort people put into putting up new routes, particularly if I can climb them. I like clever route names too. Like the super-hard crack some of the young Tassie guns put up and (I believe) named in honour of Tastrad's favourite insult -
'Co_khead Crack'.
Chockstone Moderator
31/10/2012
12:04:58 PM
Regarding;
>Public verbal slanging aside.......

A friendly reminder of Chockstone Policy.

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Help&Topic=SPAM

Posts containing extremely offensive language, blatant racism, sexual harassment, or out right personal attacks on other forum members are unacceptable. On the other hand, light hearted banter, general cursing & expletives, and heated, confrontational debate is fine.

The Chockstone Moderator account represents a collection of hardworking souls who devote their own time, without remuneration, in an effort to protect the forum from spam, personal abuse, and degradation. They can, and will, edit or delete posts, lock topics, and ban users, if necessary.

paz
31/10/2012
12:27:31 PM
Miguel, if you've got access to a car ditch Hillwood and head somewhere decent. Climbing's crappy but more importantly the surroundings are shitehouse by Tassie standards....

rodw
31/10/2012
1:04:08 PM
On 31/10/2012 Will_P wrote:
>I don't know, I appreciate the effort people put into putting up new routes,
>particularly if I can climb them. I like clever route names too. Like the
>super-hard crack some of the young Tassie guns put up and (I believe) named
>in honour of Tastrad's favourite insult -
>'Co_khead Crack'.

I appreciate it too Will, I'm not saying that...I'm just saying the person who does put up new routes, be 1 or 1000, shouldn't think it gives them any special standing etc
Tastrad
31/10/2012
1:25:32 PM
Yes thats exactly right - new route developers do it totally for themselves. Why else would you go to remote cliffs on Ben Lomond and put your arse on the line knowing that no-one will probably ever repeat it. Or other Tassie guys putting many days effort into bolting at the Tyndalls knowing it will rarely get repeated, or sea kayaking out to crags on the west coast or Flinders to put up routes. Or bolting obscure bits of rock in gullies at Hillwood that are overgrown now. I thoroughly enjoyed establishing all those routes. New routers have to be totally self motivated and don't expect kudos from anybody. If you put up new routes with the added aim of pleasing the masses, you set yourself up for crticism and disappointment. Yes it is nice to have people repeat your routes, but to stay motivated you should not be beholden to the opinion of others re the quality of your new routes. To bolt a route at Fingal for instance, takes many days of effort to clean and over $100 in bolts - and I don't give a shit if anybody repeats them. If your aim is to be a crowd pleaser, then the end result is idiotic practices like bolting gym holds to cliffs (which happened at Duck Reach) to create a route that is enjoyable and accessible to everybody. The ultimate C-head opinion I've heard came from a local who suggested putting bolts in the middle of a 12m runout on Mt Blackwood. My climbing partner and I went ground up on a 90m face and with sustained grade 22 climbing, trundling as we went and faced with the challenge of a 12m section with no gear. I led it onsight and it was one of the most exhiliarating climbs I've ever done. C-head said no-one will ever likely repeat it so its not a route, because a route by definition is a path well travelled. The climb was therefore pointless and selfish because it was just a testimony to my boldness which not many others will get to enjoy. Stiff shit. If I bolt a route you will usually find it safely equipped and with lower-offs in case people do want to repeat, but if no-one does, then I'm happy to let it fade into obscurity and remain a good memory for me.

Miguel75
31/10/2012
9:15:11 PM
On 31/10/2012 paz wrote:
>Miguel, if you've got access to a car ditch Hillwood and head somewhere
>decent. Climbing's crappy but more importantly the surroundings are shitehouse
>by Tassie standards....

You've got me thinking now...

My brother is new to climbing and lives in George Town, close to Hillwood... Was also thinking Ben Lomond though may just stick to Cataract Gorge (Nth & Sth Esk too) for this trip. We're planning a Frenchmans Cap trip in Feb so may save the groovy wilderness experiences for then...
Cam McKenzie
1/11/2012
7:39:27 AM
On 31/10/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>You've got me thinking now...
>
>My brother is new to climbing and lives in George Town, close to Hillwood...
>Was also thinking Ben Lomond though may just stick to Cataract Gorge (Nth
>& Sth Esk too) for this trip. We're planning a Frenchmans Cap trip in Feb
>so may save the groovy wilderness experiences for then...

I'd agree with the assessment to ditch Hillwood if you've got options to go other places. If the weather's good definitely hit up the Ben. Amazing place. Barbe di Vendetta is about as consumer friendly as routes at Ben Lomond get, and is a pretty amazing adventure.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 29
There are 29 messages in this topic.

 

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