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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Melbourne (General) (General) (General) [ Melbourne Guide ] 

Topic Date User
Burnley - Route Guide Monday, 8 May 2006 At 9:30:24 AM climbingjac
Message
Dear all,

This page is reserved for sharing descriptions of routes and made up problems at Burnley. I have listed the set routes below (I will add to this as routes are added to the wall). Please share your creativity with others by posting descriptions of problems you make up!

* Please report any issues (eg spinning holds) via email to burnleybouldering@vicclimb.org.au

Jacqui Middleton
Burnley Project


30 degree wall

Main Routes:

** All main routes on the 30 degree wall are designed such that they can be climbed in either direction. In general, left to right is easier and nicer climbing.

Black. Grade 18. Holds from Infinite Holds, Mingy Goat Climbing Equipment and Woodie Worx. Sensational route with massive holds. Perfect if you're trying to learn how to climb on the overhangs or perfect if you're trying to warm up for the other routes! Routesetter - Louisa Iacono.

Green. Grade 22. Holds (donated) from Tasty Holds. Learn how to move through an iron cross move, from the comfort of juggy handholds that aren't too far apart. Routesetter - Jacqui Middleton.

Pink. Top row of holds is grade 23. Bottom row is grade 24. Pink can be done as a circular or figure 8 shaped circuit. Holds from Mingy Goat Climbing Equipment. Routesetters - Martin Lama and Tim Marsh.

Yellow. Grade 25/26. Holds are Uncarved Block holds, acquired from a Melbourne woodie. Get those shoulders ready for some quality press moves! Routesetters Tim Marsh, Martin Lama and Jacqui Middleton.

"Up" Problems

Purple & yellow swirlies. Hangboard configuration. Left hand end of wall. Holds donated by John Stone. Routesetter - Tim Le.

Purple & yellow swirlies. Moderate problem. Just beside the hangboard configuration. Holds donated by Gerard Healey. Routesetter - Tim Le.

Light orange. Hard. One third of the way in from the left end of wall. Holds from Woodie Worx. Routesetter - Tim Le.

Dark orange. Super hard. Centre of wall. Holds donated from many climbers. Routesetter - Tim Le.

Red and Blue swirlies. Right hand end of wall. Holds from Infinite Holds. Routesetter Joe O'Connell.

45 degree wall

Main Routes:

** Routes are designed to go from right to left.

White. Grade 20. Keep an eye out for the fancy rotational twist move at the end! Holds from Tasty Holds. Routesetters - Jacqui Middleton, Clarke Vincent.

Purple. Grade 24. Holds collected from woodies around the country and are from varying manufacturers, though most are Uncarved Block. A bit of snatching to pinches, a bit of delicate stuff through pockets, a powerful move off an undercling and a high heelhook. Routesetter Jacqui Middleton.

Yellow. Grade 25. Holds are Uncarved Block holds. Routesetter - Andy Ellemor.

Stone. Grade 25. Holds are Entreprise Holds. Something for the tall folk. Routesetter Joe O'Connell.

Red. Grade 26/27. Holds from Infinite Holds. Prepare your ego for a battering near the end - on the heartbreaking semicircle hold! Routesetter Phil Neville.

Blue. Grade 29?? Holds are from Mingy Goat Climbing Equipment. See if you can tell the difference between the handholds from the footholds on this toughie! Routesetter Andy Ellemor.

"Up" Problems

Black. Left hand end of wall. Holds from Woodie Worx. Routesetter Phil Neville.

Brown. Centre of wall. Holds purchased from a woodie in Queensland. Routesetter - Tim Le.

Turquoise. Right hand end of wall. Holds from Woodie Worx. Routesetter Tim Marsh.

Pink. Right hand end of wall. Monster jugs. Do-able even if your short (ie a little kid). Holds are from Mingy Goat Climbing Equipment. Routesetter - Alister Robertson.

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