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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Northwest Mt Alexander Dog Rocks (General) [ Mt Alexander Guide | Images ] 

Loose bolts on Waiting for Sam (15)
10:07:25 AM
This route says to clip the last 2 staples on My Black Sheep (15). There are now two lovely stainless Fixe hangers on the face instead. However, when I went to clip them on Saturday they were really loose, at least 2 turns loose, and I didn't have a spanner with me.

I have finger-tightened them but someone needs to take a spanner next time.
(To preempt comments, yes this could go on Safer Cliffs but ought to be public knowledge.)

Loose bolts aside, the second of these is way to the right and most climbers will probably still clip one of the staples on MBS.
rock climber
4:40:04 PM
The first ascent used the arete. I have re-aligned the route to take in the centre of the face which is the way I would have prefered it to have been. "Waiting for Sam" is now a face climb with better protection. I will tighten the hangers next time I am there if someone does not beat me to it...

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