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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Taipan Wall [ Taipan Images ] 

Author
Taipan Wall Gear Tips
One Day Hero
12/04/2006
4:39:52 PM
Just a quick query. In the Mentzy guide, and for taipan in particular, what brand of cams are the sizes given in? I always thought that Friend sizes were the guidebook standard but a few desriptions include #.75?? Also, #3 friend seems a bit small as the biggest piece for Mr. Joshua.
See you all for easter
Lee
12/04/2006
5:39:28 PM
Wild Country make a .75 friend, this would probably be what is reffered to. #3 friend is certainly the bigest size 'needed' on Mr J. Although since the rebolt the first pitch is a pretty safe sport route.(due only to the improved quality of the bolts)

nmonteith
12/04/2006
5:49:39 PM
On 12/04/2006 Lee wrote:
> Although since
>the rebolt the first pitch is a pretty safe sport route.

NOT! - Most mere mortals would need at large cam (WC #5) for the start before the first bolt (8m runout
off the belay to this point). The rest of the pitch certainly has many good trad placments - including solid
medium wires and cams in the horizontal after the crux moves. You 'could' go without these bits of gear -
but expect 6m+ runouts.
Lee
12/04/2006
5:53:00 PM
yeah, that was misleading. I probably would have edited that if you didn't already reply.
The big cam at the start is definetly a good idea, I have seen lots of people go home not even getting to experience the wonders that lie beyond that runout start.

phil_nev
13/04/2006
9:06:09 AM
Man doing that as a sport route would be scary as hell. Imagine clipping the bolt on the arete, doing the crux to the break then punching the next 5m to the huge flake, you would be a good 8m above the last bolt.... You would probably end up near your belayer if you feelll.
One Day Hero
13/04/2006
3:25:04 PM
About as useful as tits on a bull! Never mind, I'll work it out for myself.
One Day Hero
13/04/2006
3:29:41 PM
Sorry, I should have qualified things a bit. I meant "needed, for people who aren't climbing seven grades below their limit". Cause you don't actually "need' a rope either, as long as you don't fall off.
dalai
13/04/2006
3:33:50 PM
First reply from Lee provided your answer. Sizes described are 'Wild Country'...

Have a good trip.
Nottobetaken
13/04/2006
4:46:16 PM
I would guess that it varies dependant upon the route - for instance - if you are going to try Mirage, make sure you take some Aliens (specifically the yellow one) and a Black Diamond #2 cam. Those are the only two pieces that will hold a fall on the slab (though the Black Diamond is in a flared placement - so that may not hold a big fall anyway!) The three-quarter and half cams mentioned in the guide are bollocks - for they fall out if moved sideways (and it's a right-trending traverse - so you better believe they will).
One Day Hero
14/04/2006
8:41:20 AM
Thanks crossdresser, that's the tip I was looking for.
One Day Hero
28/04/2006
12:16:00 PM
Hello from horsham library. Any chance of some beta on Father O? Great route, but I'm getting rammed at the first bolt. Is there a way to go up the orange rock without being 2m tall? Or does everyone shorter than Simey use the desperate pockets on the black streak?
Nottobetaken
28/04/2006
12:20:19 PM
Guess it's raining there then...
If it's still pouring tomorrow, how about discussing beer beta at the Nati pub?
one day hero
28/04/2006
12:27:03 PM
No rain, but no tips either. Beer sounds good but it's my last day tomorrow. If it's wet, we will see how it feels to get spanked at muline instead.

There are 13 messages in this topic.

 

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