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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

Lobster cave NSW send


vwills

30-May-2012
1:19:17 PM

Congratulations to Jason Piper who sent the Redheaded Dragon (? grade 30) ,after 2 years of effort, today. This long route is in Lobster cave on the north banks of the Hawkesbury river. He doesnt usually visit this site but some of his long suffering belayers do :)
Great effort Jase!


deadbudgy

30-May-2012
2:54:26 PM

Any pics?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

30-May-2012
3:04:18 PM

On 30/05/2012 vwills wrote:
>Congratulations to Jason Piper who sent the Redheaded Dragon (? grade 30)
>,after 2 years of effort, today. This long route is in Lobster cave on
>the north banks of the Hawkesbury river.

It is good to hear of another success story.

>He doesnt usually visit this site but some of his long suffering belayers do :)

... and they belay, or look for lobsters?

>Great effort Jase!

+1


benjenga

30-May-2012
4:22:49 PM

Sounds like Jason has been sending a few good hard routes lately, keep up the good work jas.


Sonic

30-May-2012
5:33:31 PM

Good job! I was there while he was trying it a while back and it looks like a pumper and a half. That crag needed another great route to go with Mornae!


arniearms

30-May-2012
6:56:28 PM

Well done on 'the rad' project Pipertron. That is one sexy redhead! Victory lap/jump/beer?

Pommy

30-May-2012
7:53:13 PM

Maybe he should start work on the hardest project of all - the CC guidebook!


pezz

30-May-2012
7:56:01 PM

Well done jp


Loz and Tim

30-May-2012
8:51:01 PM

Nice work Jase! Lots of training gone into this one!!
Here are a few pics of the line, Jase said it probably goes around 29.

This one is at the start taken a few weeks ago.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/loz82j/7260692028/in/photostream

And another from a year or so ago, this is about 1/3 of the way up, the line continues out of shot up to the left.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/loz82j/5774335976/in/set-72057594070522877


Pat

30-May-2012
9:02:06 PM

Don't know much about sport climbing - were the draws pre-placed? If so how? Great looking route.


arniearms

31-May-2012
3:42:11 PM

^ draws are preplaced on lead (warmup), and cleaned by down climbing (or back jumping).

Another good pic - The Readheaded Dragon

Shows the halway anchors just off screen to right, piper mid crux, the wicked dyno at the end of the ceiling, and the pumpy 45 topout.

Well done again jase, nothing like ticking off a good proj!!!


benjenga

31-May-2012
3:54:28 PM

It's good to flickr still alive and kicking on the central coast. Keep up the rad shots.


pmonks

1-Jun-2012
1:02:24 PM

Let's hope NPWS don't ban climbing in the entire park due to the development at the Lobster Beach Cave - they're well aware of what's going on and (last I heard) not very happy about it. There was a reason the SSS guide clearly marked all of the Bouddi crags as "no bolting"...


rodw

1-Jun-2012
2:15:45 PM

Your right Mr Monks...climbers might get in the way of the shooters.


pmonks

2-Jun-2012
2:18:53 AM

On 1/06/2012 rodw wrote:
>Your right Mr Monks...climbers might get in the way of the shooters.

Not much feral left to shoot in Bouddi - NPWS shot the last of the goats from choppers in the late 80s. Remember it fondly. ;-)

That said there's still heaps of Lantana and Bitou Bush - not sure the bogans will find that as much fun to shoot though.

Dr Nick

2-Jun-2012
10:39:50 AM

Don't give them ideas pmonks. They'll start carrying miniguns and recreating the deforestation scene in Predator. "If it oozes sap, we can kill it".


vwills

2-Jun-2012
2:23:54 PM

On 1/06/2012 pmonks wrote:
>Let's hope NPWS don't ban climbing in the entire park due to the development
>at the Lobster Beach Cave - they're well aware of what's going on and (last
>I heard) not very happy about it. There was a reason the SSS guide clearly
>marked all of the Bouddi crags as "no bolting"...

Just cos you lived on top of the crag and dismissed it as a pile of choss..... the rock is actually immaculate on a low humidity day and the routes have been there for about 4 years now.... why should bolting be banned? Apart from metal in the rock and some chalk marks there appears to have been little impact from climbers. (I am actually serious on that point, the place has been really clean the times I have visited)
PS: There are bolted crags throughout Bouddi NP.
Queue Rodw for an anti NP tirade here:

Duncan

2-Jun-2012
4:53:51 PM

I'm not convinced that Rodw is actualy a real person. I think he may just be a bot programmed to rant about NSW NPWS every time it's mentioned on Chockstone.


rodw

2-Jun-2012
5:18:21 PM

I think TonyB has taken over that job lately TBH :)

widewetandslippery

2-Jun-2012
5:50:11 PM

He exists, just don't talk about parramatta or you may be bolted

There are 28 messages in this topic.