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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 45
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Southwest Werribee Gorge (General) (General) [ Werribee Guide | Images ] 

Author
Snatch and Grab Chipped?
gtempest
3/04/2012
11:02:43 AM
Has anyone done Snatch and Grab (20) at Werribee Gorge in the last week or so? I was told that the fingery crux start has suddenly gained a new hold.

Miguel75
3/04/2012
4:27:52 PM
I was there today and didn't notice anything out of the ordinary. I'll be there Thurs, maybe, have a better look and report back.
Doro
3/04/2012
7:08:11 PM
I was there last Sunday and yes it certainly has been chipped.

shortman
Online Now
4/04/2012
12:20:47 AM
On 3/04/2012 Doro wrote:
>I was there last Sunday and yes it certainly has been chipped.

I aint the biggest Werribee fan. But if this has happened it pisses me right off. A great delicate fingery tricky start where grabbin at something bigger would be hard to avoid. This is heaps worse than blocked dunnies and smashed doors at the gums.
Doro
4/04/2012
10:24:12 AM
Well it's problem is that it is the easiest sport climb out there. I have seen some desperate attempts to tick this climb by climbers who didn't seem to have the repertoir of moves and brains to do it. Stay away and practice in the gym!

shortman
Online Now
4/04/2012
10:54:27 AM
On 4/04/2012 Doro wrote:
>Well it's problem is that it is the easiest sport climb out there. I have
>seen some desperate attempts to tick this climb by climbers who didn't
>seem to have the repertoir of moves and brains to do it. Stay away and
>practice in the gym!

When did u see me climb it?

;)

Miguel75
4/04/2012
11:40:13 AM
On 4/04/2012 shortman wrote:
>I aint the biggest Werribee fan. But if this has happened it pisses me
>right off.

I'm ready to round up a lynchmob. I love WG!
JDB
4/04/2012
12:13:55 PM
So what grade is Chip, Snatch & Grab?

nmonteith
4/04/2012
12:34:52 PM
Melbourne has such a tiny amount of quality (non-granite) climbs. It's a real shame that a fun route that has had literally thousands of ascents (possibly every year?!) has been modified for the needs of one. Just fill it in - the rock is not the prettiest around there - the scar will hopefully hardly be noticeable.
bones
4/04/2012
12:40:18 PM
On 4/04/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>Melbourne has such a tiny amount of quality (non-granite) climbs. It's
>a real shame that a fun route that has had literally thousands of ascents
>(possibly every year?!) has been modified for the needs of one. Just fill
>it in - the rock is not the prettiest around there - the scar will hopefully
>hardly be noticeable.

Assuming the person chipped a new hold rather than "enhance" the existing hold...
JDB
4/04/2012
12:45:04 PM
Do we know if it was definetly chipped as opposed to a hold snapping off?

nmonteith
4/04/2012
12:46:59 PM
On 4/04/2012 bones wrote:
>Assuming the person chipped a new hold rather than "enhance" the existing
>hold...

Damn. You're right. That would be a bad outcome and almost impossible to fix.

White Trash
4/04/2012
3:33:44 PM
On 4/04/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 4/04/2012 bones wrote:
>>Assuming the person chipped a new hold rather than "enhance" the existing
>>hold...
>
>Damn. You're right. That would be a bad outcome and almost impossible
>to fix.

take a teaspoomn of cement and send?
MichaelOR
4/04/2012
11:09:28 PM
The rock at the start of S & G is really solid - a hold wouldn't break The holds are way too small for enough torque to break them! Either it's enhancement or a new hold.

What a sad state of affairs. If you can't do it, just aid it like most punters do and come back when you're stronger or more technically able. It's great for most climbers to have a project worth aspiring to close to Melbourne. Even come back in cooler weather as it's much saner without warm sun on it. What a pity.
Can't believe someone could be bothered .......
lfranklin
5/04/2012
12:01:59 PM
I don't post very often. But this one really sucks! I remember going to Werribee on my first climbing trip and my friends were trying to climb S&G. I had a go on the pro they had clipped and I remember not being able to make the first three moves! So what did I do??
I went away and trained hard, climbed a whole bunch of stuff and came back. Didn't make it! Trained hard.......... Next trip Lead it clean. I really hope this is a miss report.
alpinejoy
5/04/2012
6:28:49 PM
I hope this is miss report too. This was one of the first routes I climbed in Australia, and at the time my hardest onsight ever. It was a real confidence boost. I was hoping to see my gf send it next time we're back in oz.

I don't know if it's just me, but the idea of chipping a route never occurred to me until I was into climbing for a few years and became accustomed to european climbing "ethics". How would some numpty get the idea in their head to do this, and manage it without the wg crowds noticing?

shortman
Online Now
5/04/2012
7:46:21 PM
On 4/04/2012 JDB wrote:
>So what grade is Chip, Snatch & Grab?

After the cruxy start, the rest probably goes at 17ish.




Miguel75
5/04/2012
7:47:45 PM
On 5/04/2012 alpinejoy wrote:
>....and manage it without the wg crowds noticing?

Unfortunately I don't reckon it'd be too hard. The largest 'crowd' I've ever encountered was 4 people on Hadrian/Conscientious Pontus. That was a one off too.

I'm not sure why, (loose rock, short interrupted routes, close to Melton etc...) but WG doesn't seem too popular among Melbournians.

Pat
5/04/2012
8:16:08 PM
Things must have changed - last time I was there was before the bollards were installed and it was wall to wall on a Saturday.

Miguel75
5/04/2012
8:23:07 PM
On 5/04/2012 Pat wrote:
>Things must have changed - last time I was there was before the bollards
>were installed and it was wall to wall on a Saturday.

I should clarify, If I'm there on a Saturday it's really early or really late... How long ago did the bollards go in? And the access change?

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 45
There are 45 messages in this topic.

 

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