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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo The Horn Environs (General) Wall Of China [ Horn Guide ] 

Author
Buffalo..Wall of China
brettmason
10/12/2011
10:52:40 AM
Howdy everyone. I was up at Buffalo y.day and tried to find the access to above cliff. Was desperate. 70deg seeping grass was all i could find. Guide access details are very sketchy. Can anybody help??? Thanks Brett

JamesMc
10/12/2011
5:34:41 PM
Walk around the top from high on the Horn track and abseil in.
kieranl
10/12/2011
8:46:07 PM
Another way is to walk past Short Sharp Shocked and go up a gully and slabs to the top and walk around the top from there. Don't try to traverse an obvious ledge system that appears to lead around to the top of the main gully. It does, but it's really nasty.
I have also several times fixed a rope around the big boulder above Miss Otis Regrets, abseiled down that climb to the grassy terrace below it, and then used it as a super-long rap anchor to do a 40 metre abseil into the gully.
If it's dry you can scramble down steep grass just right (facing out) of the Miss Otis Regrets block and do a short (10m) abseil from slings (take your own) to the base of the gully.
brettmason
11/12/2011
3:08:07 PM
Thanks James. I did think abseiling was best option, just couldnt quite work out heights and angles etc to get in there.I always seemed to end up east or west of it. I only took one 60mt rope and a raw beginner : ). So didnt feel too adventurous
brettmason
11/12/2011
3:15:23 PM
Thanks Keiran. I have just moved up to the north east and whilst having climbed for many years have only ventured to Buffalo once since approx 1984. And scared myself stupid on some hellshow on Euorbin slabs. Back then I climbed a bit with Mikl and he sand bagged me good!!!!!
I will have another crack at finding it as my partner is a beginner and the routes (on paper) seem sound.
Thanks again Brett

There are 5 messages in this topic.

 

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