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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 75
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VIC Arapiles (General) (General) (General) [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Good (safe) 24s at Arapiles

stugang
5/11/2011
6:44:36 AM
Below the grade of 20ish I agree its a matter of opinion. Above 20 your suggestion is retarded.

To settle the question - as to whether anything you say has any merit - answer this simple question:

Which chick from Playschool would you most like to nail?

Don't say nobody as we all know you'd be lying.
SteveH
5/11/2011
7:48:06 AM
'It'll never fly'? Bolts to the sporty arete finish (back-clean), or chuck in a few of those funny trad things to cruise to the anchor. Tops!
Wendy
5/11/2011
8:21:26 AM
Why would you come all the way to Araps to climb It'll never Fly?

Strange Tenants is only marginally safe. Nick took a massive whipper off the top of it last Autumn, ended up almost level with the ledge on the right, carreered into the bulge and wrenched himself up a bit in the process. Given that it already has one bolt, and the only gear at the exit (should you decide it's worth bothering with whilst pumped out of your brain) is behind a detached flake, the consequences of coming off there without the gear are nearly 10m and possibly swinging into a ledge or the initial bulge, it'd be worth chucking another bolt in it. But as it's also short and crimpy, it's certainly not what Neil's asking for.

I struggle to believe Terminal Drive is the best route at the Mt after doing Cliffhanger the other day. I was pretty disappointed in Cliffhanger. The line is very wandering, has some crap rock and doesn't really kick in until it hits Curtain Call, by which time there's less than 10m of the cliff left. Sometimes I wonder if that wall looks way better than it actually climbs?

I thought Common Knowledge wasn't that flash either. It's a pretty ugly line, wanders, has some loose rock, seeps, does stupid reachy nonsense in 2 places. I'll give it more credit than Female Friends though - it's pretty consistantly nails, esp if done in one pitch as we did. I did Armed Forces on the same day, and thought it a much better route.

Anyway, these things are all baking. It's going to be 32 today. If you want a thrilling 24 today, Open Season is the way forward. You probably aren't doing to die on Open Season, but you will get very bloody excited. I reckon it's a better route than Second Coming, even if it is also wandery nonsense and shares that gruesome polished start. It's a spectacular position with solid rock.

I thought the Philospher was death on a stick. The gear is spaced and would be desperate to place, the climbing consistantly hard and Duncan nearly decked falling off the moved to the Cadenza traverse.

I enjoyed Spring Offensive, but it's probably more sane if you manage to get the bolt pre clipped. Perhaps rapping down from Frenzy?

Thought Deep Freeze was absolutely nails - the climbing was very cool though, consistanly pumpy, hold facing the wrong way, tensiony funky stuff. I'm not sure why Simey downgraded it. Maybe to keep with the tradition that Araps 24s are harder than the 25s. I suspect it will be seeping at the moment though. And the gear looked pretty fiddly.

No Standing has been quite popular, although the start is desperate and I think clipping a bolt or a piton on route is also desperate.
Dave J
5/11/2011
2:11:53 PM
Deep Freeze is a good call for this time of the year as is Open Season (though climbing that was the most gripped Ive ever been on any route at Arapiles by a long way...think I was just having a wobbly day though)

Trojan is worth doing if you're up that way and havent done it.

Gordy did a little clip up 24 to the right of spasm. stays shady on a hot day and has bolts are the 2 standout features.

I still stand by my original statement that pretty much all the good 24s at Araps are fairly committing

enjoy

phil_nev
5/11/2011
4:03:31 PM
Blue eyed and blonde is fantastic, go do it!!
Horrorscope is safe but all over to quick.
Itl never fly is crap.
Nose job is great, especially the finish, but pretty bold to gnd up IMO.
Intransiece? 23 I think these days, but great fun.
Nottobetaken
5/11/2011
8:20:58 PM
On 5/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>I struggle to believe Terminal Drive is the best route at the Mt after
>doing Cliffhanger the other day. I was pretty disappointed in Cliffhanger.
> The line is very wandering, has some crap rock and doesn't really kick
>in until it hits Curtain Call, by which time there's less than 10m of the
>cliff left. Sometimes I wonder if that wall looks way better than it actually
>climbs?
Agree with Cliffhanger. Somewhat over-rated we thought. Terminal is good but not consistent. 22 to a boulder problem through a roof!

>I thought Common Knowledge wasn't that flash either. I did Armed
>Forces on the same day, and thought it a much better route.
- and about the same grade no doubt!

>Thought Deep Freeze was absolutely nails - the climbing was very cool
>though, consistanly pumpy, hold facing the wrong way, tensiony funky stuff.
> I'm not sure why Simey downgraded it.
I think even Nic Sellars and his better half thought that it was worth 25.


stugang
6/11/2011
3:59:29 PM
I think its been clearly established that the good 24's at Araps are crap.

Best advice: Do the good 23's with a weight belt.
Wendy
6/11/2011
9:37:58 PM
Probably be too late to be of use to Neil, but I threw a rope down Spring Offensive today (after going up Frenzy) and it needs rebolting. The second bolt is pox, and you'd also deck falling off the dicky move above the first bolt (which is actually ok, just useless almost instantly you climb past it).
simey
7/11/2011
8:11:41 AM
On 6/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Probably be too late to be of use to Neil, but I threw a rope down Spring
>Offensive today (after going up Frenzy) and it needs rebolting. The second
>bolt is pox, and you'd also deck falling off the dicky move above the first
>bolt (which is actually ok, just useless almost instantly you climb past
>it).

I recall placing some RPs above the first bolt (although Wendy doesn't think they are worth carrying so it is irrelevant for her). They were fiddly to place to place on lead though.
Wendy
7/11/2011
9:13:23 AM
Aside from whether I had them or not, by the time you can place them, you've done the dodgy move that you'll deck out from! Although for those who are 6 ft 7, this may be different. I didn't look closely at what gear it was this time, but I recollect Doug getting a 1 rock in there when we did it.
simey
7/11/2011
11:45:50 AM
I don't think you need to be 6ft 7 to place them (I'm not), but maybe you need to be taller than 5ft nothing.
crazyjohn
8/11/2011
3:40:46 AM
IM currently on the other side of the planet but Ill be at araps in a couple weeks so I thought Id chime in. Me and grug backed off SO a couple years ago because of that dodgy move off the bolt. I could have just been way hungover that day. But there must have been some scarryness involved. I remember Simey telling me something about RPs back then but I didnt find any gear... Ill try it again as soon as I get back! Cant be any harder than free climbing el cap... :)
kieranl
14/11/2011
9:20:47 AM
So Neil, did you get sandbagged?

nmonteith
14/11/2011
12:23:31 PM
Did Horrorscope and Dreadnaught pitch 1. Horrorscope was pretty worthless - only about 5m of actual climbing. A fun couple of moves - and i even managed to strip a bomber looking linkcam and touched my tippy toes on the ledge below.

Dreadnaught was lovely and shady and quite fun after I dogged all the gear. It really climbed like a sport route - big moves between positive holds.

What did i learn? That when i get scared i fill all the holds with trad gear, then fall off and spend my hanging time moving all the gear out of the holds and putting it somewhere less ideal but not in the way.
One Day Hero
14/11/2011
11:19:11 PM
Yeah, Horrorscope is stupid and pointless, it gets loads of ascents because its close to camp and soft (not soft enough for me to onsight, unfortunately)

I thought the 1st pitch of Dreadnaught was pretty poxy, it has bad rock by Victorian standards. 2nd pitch looks really good but had a shocking seep going when I was there, did you do both?
Wendy
15/11/2011
7:26:19 AM
I think Horrorscope is quite fun, and I actually have to do a bit of work on it. Maybe you guys just miss out on a whole stack of climbing in it because you're too tall - think of all that extra value I get out of these itty bitty routes! That tiny first crack involves 2 finger locks and 2 flared hands with no feet before I get to the slopers at the hole, then I could equally well come off cranking to the jam at the back of the hole, then there's the funky move onto the pinky down jam miles above your head, crossing through the top of the diagonal, then a big lunge over right only to face the sketchy high step up on to layways whilst pumped sillly. Where's the easy and pointless in all that?

Esther and I did Horrorscope and Paladin on Sunday. In the rain. It was very unNatimukian of me. The things you do for visiting friends. At least it was warm rain. I might be strange, but I find Horrorscope harder. And there's certainly no less climbing on it than there is on Paladin. Actually, is there any more climbing on Dreadnought p1? We are discussing a bunch of Araps mini routes. They are indisputably short, but the joy is in being funky.

I've never seen that 2nd pitch dry. It's purportedly desperate, dry or not.

nmonteith
15/11/2011
8:50:03 AM
It does sound like I did half the moves you did on Horrorscope Wendy! Dreadnaught has a lot more climbing, quite sustained from literally the first move all the way up to the final mantle move (where Nick fell off on the flash!). I have been on the 2nd pitch of Dreadnaug about 13 years ago (after doing the alt start first pitch). We backed off it - I can't remember exactly why, the moves felt desperate and I don't think the gear was super.

vwills
15/11/2011
11:03:04 AM
I also found Horrorscope fiendishly tricky due to reach issues getting to the first horizontal break from the ledge and found trying to jam/ layback/ stack fingers etc painful and hard - but then I hated Hyena as well. Dreadnought was quite do-able but likely to trash finger tips and lacing a route up with gear and then dogging the crap out of it is not why I go to arapiles on a 4 day visit. Maybe if there longer i would try harder.
Managed to sandbag self on a 22 anyway on the afternoon we arrived in 34 degree heat- Goodbye- a 2 star 22 I had never really heard of felt rather run out and not the gentle reintroduction to Arapiles I needed.
kieranl
15/11/2011
11:20:06 AM
Goodbye is notorious for handing out whippers from the end of the traverse. I think it was originally graded 19 or 20 or something similarly amusing.
Can't remember much about second pitch of Dreadnought except that it was luckily Ed Neve's lead. Desperate moves past small wires, into the hanging corner. Even Wendy might want to carry RPs on it.
prb
15/11/2011
12:07:45 PM
Col Reece gave Goodbye 19 so he must have thought it was tough - it was one of the higher grades he handed out in those days. It's consistent with some pretty solid Moonarie grading such as that for Flying Buttress, Downwind and Orion.

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There are 75 messages in this topic.

 

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