Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Arapiles	(General)	(General)	(General)	[ Arapiles Guide \| Arapiles Images ]

Author

Good (safe) 24s at Arapiles


nmonteith

3-Nov-2011
8:32:02 PM

On 3/11/2011 Olbert wrote:
>What about Female Friends - I never did it but Dave managed to onsight
>it without whimpering or crying.

Im scarred by a very old pic of Louise on that route making it look desperate. How are the bees?


Neil

3-Nov-2011
8:40:22 PM

Sandpiper. Would be 24 at most other crags.

Olbert

3-Nov-2011
8:56:53 PM

On 3/11/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>On 3/11/2011 Olbert wrote:
>>What about Female Friends - I never did it but Dave managed to onsight
>>it without whimpering or crying.
>
>Im scarred by a very old pic of Louise on that route making it look desperate.
>How are the bees?

We backed off a nearby 22 earlier that trip because Dave is allergic to bees - I think the bees aren't a problem. Maybe somebody could chime in on this point?

As for it being desperate, I'm sorry I dont really know, I'de ask Dave himself but he's an epic sandbagger - "Jugs all the way - you'll be fine" usually means super undergraded crimpy technical powerful pumpy route.

I seem to remember reading somewhere (most likely the current guide) that the bolts have been replaced to be easier to clip - but I'm pretty sure you probably would have already read that.

bl@ke

3-Nov-2011
11:47:13 PM

On 3/11/2011 Wendy wrote:
>
>Dynamic is a piece of mank, Peter! I think it's had some bolts bunged
>in it these days, but that doesn't make nondescript climbing climb any
>better.

A 10m 25? Perfect. Almost as perfect as Cobwebs. Do Cobwebs.


The good Dr

4-Nov-2011
2:39:57 AM

Female Friends, Cruel Brittania, Dreadnought, Blue Eyed and Blonde, Look Sharp. Paladin has good gear but is desperate. To quote HB ... 'mmm could be 25' ... !

Wendy

4-Nov-2011
7:11:03 AM

The reason I didn't suggest female friends is because I think it's a crap route. But if you're into 3 boulder problems, the first of which is almost impossibly reachy, separated by hands free rests on a route that wanders like a drunk around the wall to find climbable territory, then go for it. The bolts are better now though.

mikllaw

4-Nov-2011
9:13:14 AM

gay olympics has dropped 2 grades since the rebolt.


shiltz

4-Nov-2011
10:48:21 AM

Die Loaded is another option if Horrorscope goes easily and you want something longer and pumpy.

crazyjohn

4-Nov-2011
12:19:58 PM

Baz is full of it. Nose job is NOT good (safe) 24 in the same vein as all the other ones mentioned. The proper start has thin gear that is just ok. I noticed the crux wire placement on rappel after finishing coming on chris then flashed it. I dont think I would have found the placement onsight. If you rap inspect the route first, you will have a blast!! Ive climbed most of everything else mentioned so far and agree they are fun and safe. Which is why I climbed them! Last year me friend Niels took the same fall off of Louis Lane as described in the guide book. 24 can be a little scary at araps.

Gay Olympics is easy 25 even without the direct finish, Its as hard as No Exit I reckon. Super fun sporty route if you stick clip the first bolt. A little bit bold if you dont.

You only need one #4 and one #3 camalot for KS. Its not that big.

What about Kryptonite? its 23 going on 24. Good warm up for KS.


MisterGribble

4-Nov-2011
12:27:09 PM

Debutantes is written up as 25 but it would be soft touch, and is very well protected


nmonteith

4-Nov-2011
1:20:35 PM

On 4/11/2011 MisterGribble wrote:
>Debutantes is written up as 25 but it would be soft touch, and is very
>well protected

That's the wierd thing - i've done pretty much all of the good (well protected!) grade 25s at the Mount - i just seemed to have skipped 24?

Dave J

4-Nov-2011
4:09:30 PM

most of the best 24s at Araps are not overly cushy
Breezing, Common Knowledge, Cliffhanger, Terminal Drive

Perhaps having done all the safe 25s at the mount you are well placed to have a go at some of the exciting 24s. All the above routes have good gear, its just spaced.

Wendy

4-Nov-2011
5:33:32 PM

On 4/11/2011 shiltz wrote:
>Die Loaded is another option if Horrorscope goes easily and you want something
>longer and pumpy.

There's nothing particularly safe about Die Loaded either! Fiddly gear, mostly in the bits you want to use, nasty angled fall potential if you come off the move right, more fiddly gear and committing.

Paladin is the only one of that trio I would recommend ground up. Life in the Fast Lane also has fiddly gear, some of which is in desperate positions to place.


ChuckNorris

4-Nov-2011
5:37:02 PM

Can't believe noone has mentioned despatched (I think I read somewhere it is given 24 now?).

Awesome route and don't recall the gear being an issue; unless you're the type to call international rescue with a 3rp at your feet. You certainly aint gonna hit anything if you fall.

What about Finger Prince too? Better than a lot of the crap suggested above.


ChuckNorris

4-Nov-2011
5:45:24 PM

As a croweater Common Knowledge was the route that made me decide to not waste time climbing at arapiles.

I'd looked fwd to it for a long time only to top out and wish I'd driven to moonarie instead.

widewetandslippery

4-Nov-2011
5:46:17 PM

Aren,t they both 23? (NB. After snaping a friend and having another go with serious shrinking ball disease I have not done dispatched).


ChuckNorris

4-Nov-2011
5:51:24 PM

They were when I did them but for some reason (don't have guides on me now) I thought they'd been upgraded.

Could be wrong.

Nottobetaken

4-Nov-2011
8:55:51 PM

On 4/11/2011 Dave J wrote:
>most of the best 24s at Araps are not overly cushy
>Breezing, Common Knowledge, Cliffhanger, Terminal Drive
>
>Perhaps having done all the safe 25s at the mount you are well placed
>to have a go at some of the exciting 24s. All the above routes have good
>gear, its just spaced.

I was once told that Terminal Drive could be the best route - let alone 24 - at the Mount, however I doubt that. The same thing was said about Yesterday (route - not 24 - ha ha). For 'safe' 24's it kind of takes some of the best out of the picture - however Common Knowledge would probably be my top choice - providing the bottom pitch isn't seeping. After that, I'd love to recommend Spring Offensive, but it has a spicy start. The rest of the gear is bombproof. Good on a hot day. Also good: Deeply Techo and Deep Freeze. Great routes, and good on a sunny day.

spicelab

4-Nov-2011
11:49:26 PM

On 4/11/2011 triedbutfailed wrote:
>As a croweater Common Knowledge was the route that made me decide to not
>waste time climbing at arapiles.
>
>I'd looked fwd to it for a long time only to top out and wish I'd driven
>to moonarie instead.
>

Oh Puhlease!

Moonarie has a setting and an atmosphere that shits all over Arapiles (as does 95% of crags) - but the climbing is really *not* *that* *good*.


The good Dr

5-Nov-2011
12:04:25 AM

Deep Freeze is great, but a bit dodge at the bottom, ie not great gear and a tough move. The gear gets better and is bomber once established though maybe a bit fiddly.

Philosopher has good gear, though again fiddly/pumpy to place. There is also a newer 24 on Dec Crag which is left of problematic which is well protected and seems worthwhile. Strange Tennants is worth a look now that it has had the upgrade to 24 in the new guide, though might be a bit run out at the top (on the easy ground though).

Don't listen to Wendy re female friends. The climbing is good and inescapable. Sure, it has rests and the bottom move is reachy for us midgets (PS Wendy, there is a really sneaky midget way to do the bottom move) and it wanders about a bit but the climbing is good.

There are 75 messages in this topic.