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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Hollow Mountain & Surrounds (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Hollow Mountain Online Guide + Updates

MrKyle
15/10/2007
5:28:19 PM
I think this is the link you meant Neil:
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=193
JohnK
16/10/2007
8:29:31 AM
Great job Neilo, thanks heaps mate, just printed a full colour copy of this and all nicely bound. Now just have to go climbing!

nmonteith
17/03/2008
12:04:42 AM
Three new easy sport routes have been done up at the left end of Tribute Wall. They are probably the easiest sport routes in the Grampians. I'm not totally sure of the grades - but they are all around 15-18ish. Feedback about the grades appreciated!
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=212
Routes 7, 8 and 9 on the topo
kp
11/04/2010
12:24:25 PM
Thought i'd write these down. Can someone please put them on the aca site!!

--the dungeon

School of Seven Bells 28* 15m
You will have to be twice as cunning and just as nimble as a south american pick pocketer to solve this bouldery number. Referred to as martys project on existing topo. 5 FH's to chain.


--tribute wall

Noasis 25* 15m
Starts up jet for two bolts then veers right past 3 FH's to lower off. A little run out.

An extra bolt has been added to Jet to make it a sport route.


--bad moon rising wall

Familiar Patterns 20* 20m
Starts as Puddlejugs. Follow bolts right following vague arete. 5FH's to lower off

Rabbit in the Headlights 21* 20m
Starts on low arete 3m left of PJ. Moves left across face following 6FH's. Move left at 5FH where the slab blanks out, then up. A tad engaging.


--amnesty wall

Peacekeeper 26* 20m
Starts as Freedom fighter. Once on ledge move left past numerous FH's. When the holds run out duck into amnesty for a few moves then pop out right again.

--muline cave.

First cave up and right of muline has one route in it, the impressive Bikini Revenge (31) done by sick nutter.

Cave above has 3 routes intertwined. All routes are super steep and need to be backjumped to clean.

Nothing Lasts Forever 22* 8m
Short punchy route on left of cave. Nowra like!

Marlon Brando 25* 10m
Through center of cave to odd crux at end. Finishes on flakes.

Blinded by the Lights 25* 15m
Starts on far right of cave and finishes as for NLF. Nice pumper!
f_abe
11/04/2010
10:12:01 PM
Up at Muline today, and noticed that one of these new routes (not sure which one) was missing a hanger on the 2nd to last bolt. Then found a quickdraw, with a bolt hanger still attached, on the ground. Very strange. And no, we didn't pilfer it...but we did leave plenty of bail biners on desert rose!
We assumed that the wind blew it in an anti clockwise direction until it undid, but there's probably a much better explanation...?

nmonteith
12/04/2010
8:26:03 AM
I'l add them all to the ACA today KP!

nmonteith
12/04/2010
1:38:26 PM
Kent, can you scribble topo lines on the Bad Moon Rising topo photo for your new routes please and email me.
KP
9/08/2010
5:21:27 PM
Couple of new ones from the sunny side.

Bad Moon Rising Wall

Sleep Forever (20)* 20m
Starts just right of Bitten Finger. 7 UB's lead to Revenge of the Chickens anchor.

Koalaquatsy Wall

Numerology (22) 8m
Short pocketed seam below koalaquatsy wall. 3 Bolts lead to anchor. Bouldery.

KP
10/08/2010
10:21:42 AM
monty can you please add these to online guide. i would but it's locked!

nmonteith
10/08/2010
11:42:44 AM
Yep, I will do it tonight KP!
kp
20/12/2010
8:37:39 AM
Hello all, Any chance of adding these Will or Neil??

Upper Tribute.
This area is best accessed by traversing left once reaching Koalaquatsy wall. Then carefully climb the short wall 1.5m wall (cairned). Described from right to left. All routes are around 15m in length.

The Suburbs 17*
Knob ridden terain.5 FH's & anchor

Lost In Translation 19*
Very pleasant right trending wall climbing.7 FH's & anchor

Olympic Airways 23*
Quite a bouldery little number. Start as first bolt of LIT then straight up. 7FH's & anchor.

Back Stabbath 21*
The original route on the wall has been retroed, so is now a sport route. 6 Bolts plus DB lower off.

Definently potential for a few more if anyone else is so inclined.

Oh on tribute wall... Justin Tymberland is now a sport route 4 Fh's. There is also an variant start on the right 1 Fh which drops the route down to a consistant 18. Lower off is the same as Noasis.

nmonteith
20/12/2010
9:46:07 AM
Will do tonight KP!

nmonteith
20/12/2010
12:10:55 PM
p.s. I will make this wall a separate area from Tribute Wall. No reason to have them all bunched together when there is a different access track.
kp
20/12/2010
12:39:15 PM
Yeah good idea monty.

Can you please also put a warning into the guide that your belayer will be standing on chockstones when belaying. A fall into the void could be dangerous.
kieranl
20/12/2010
12:56:08 PM
That's a bit nanny state isn't it? Surely people know about the concept of setting up a belay when standing next to an abyss?

nmonteith
20/12/2010
2:00:30 PM
It is quite dangerous Kieran as you are literally standing on a wedged boulder a metre across with a deep void on both sides. I'll put a warning in - at least to discourage people bringing their kids up there or a large group.
Wendy
20/12/2010
7:20:00 PM
maybe you should just give Kent editing access to the site Neil! Hey, I did your easy routes at the left end of tribute some time ago, and Inxessive is desperate! I'd struggle to give it a grade as it's reachy nonsense, but Anthony came off it too, so it's not just reachy nonsense. Certainly wouldn't class it as one of the easiest sport routes in the gramps!
kp
8/01/2011
12:13:14 AM
Thanx for the update Neilo.

I also forgot that it seems that Crime Wave (20) and Murder Psalm (25) @ VD land have both been rebolted/retroed. Both are now sport routes.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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