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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Hollow Mountain & Surrounds (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Hollow Mountain Online Guide + Updates

nmonteith
24/02/2006
2:45:04 PM
After many months of research I have finalized a new FREE online guide to the Hollow Mountain area
of Mt Stapylton (Grampians). It covers all the new sport crags that have appeared in this area in the
last few years and uses photo topos and diagrams to describe the complexity of this area.
Comprehensive and up-to-date information for Amnesty, Cut Lunch, Sandinista, Tribute and VD Land
are included.

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=33®ion_id=9

Are print friendly version can be viewed here:
http://www.climb.org.au/routes/print_friendly.php?crag_id=79

Please email me any corrections, typos, factual errors etc.

This guide uses the awesome ACA developed route database system. I am currently also revising the
Stapylton Amphitheater guide using this system (Taipan, Clicke etc). Some of the crags are publicly
viewable - some are still hidden and are works in progress. Please enjoy!

Neil Monteith
joemor
24/02/2006
3:19:22 PM
is there a sexy pdf fully super gloss seductive images version????

nmonteith
24/02/2006
3:26:45 PM
Not yet.

Robb
24/02/2006
3:36:05 PM
neil
just checked out the new guide. great work, most impressed.
rob
climbingjac
24/02/2006
3:37:31 PM
On 24/02/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>Not yet.

What???!!!! I can't believe the lack of service!!!!!!

Great job Neil. I suspect you'll make a lot of people very happy.
Nottobetaken
24/02/2006
4:21:02 PM
Brilliant work Neil. Thanks very much. Payment in beer OK?

nmonteith
24/02/2006
4:28:20 PM
On 24/02/2006 Crossdresser wrote:
>Payment in beer OK?

OK by me. Avoids paying income tax as well. Who wants to give Costello 1/3 of their beer?
james
24/02/2006
4:47:13 PM
On 24/02/2006 nmonteith wrote:
>On 24/02/2006 Crossdresser wrote:
>>Payment in beer OK?
>
>OK by me. Avoids paying income tax as well. Who wants to give Costello
>1/3 of their beer?

paying in coffee is cheaper..

mtnbear
24/02/2006
5:22:31 PM
Wow Neil, I am absolutly impressed.

I used to whinge about how some of the guides were to vague to crappy not enough pics etc etc comparred to what I had gotten used to in Canada.

If this is the new norm, I already prefer it to anything I've seen.
Hyper informative and comprehensive!

Great work, man!
pharmamatt
26/02/2006
6:34:56 PM
tried to check it out but climb.org.au website is dead (509 bandwidth limit exceeded) :-(

damon23
26/02/2006
7:55:15 PM
hmm same deal here..

MrKyle
27/02/2006
9:54:07 AM
Back online now. Just teething while we get used to traffic.
kd
28/02/2006
1:54:55 PM
Very good news....

nmonteith
8/05/2006
9:43:51 AM
Some route updates...

Amnesty Wall, Hollow Mountain

The Tyrants Grasp 18m 22 [sport]
Additional bolt added to start so dangerous stick-clip off chossy ledge can be avoided.

Koalsquatsy Wall, Hollow Mountain

Dry Spell 15m 20* [Mixed]
Drought conditions only! The black gritty water streak 2m left of Koalasquasty. Highball up to first BR,
then layaway and stem up the subtle line past another two BRs. #1 SLCD in horizontal for finish move
onto belay ledge. Rap off slings.
FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 08-04-2006

Tribute Wall, Hollow Mountain

* Midnight Soiled 14m 22 [sport[
This route has been entirely retro-bolted (5 UBs) to fit into the theme of other routes on this wall. The
route now finishes direct to the anchors above By Jovi. Permission was gained from first ascent party.
The route is certainly worth at least one star.

Sentinel Cave, Staplyton Campground, Northern Grampians

* Screaming Barfies 11m 22 [sport]
An easier version of the crag classic Steeping On Snakes. Squeezed in between Dwarf Pumper and
the latter – then finish as for SOS through the roof. 4 U-bolts.
FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 7.5.2006

The Guardhouse, Staplyton Campground, Northern Grampians

** Line Of Sight 15m 23 [sport]
Wave to the scout hoards at Staplyton Campground as you pull to glory through the ceiling. Located
on left side of wall. Reachy orange goodness to start to reach prominent roof cave. Over roof and up
right side of subtle arête to final juggy wall (optional large wires to avoid mild runout). 5 UB and double
UB lower-off. FFA Neil Monteith 7.5.2006


nmonteith
15/05/2006
12:41:14 PM
More new routes.

Koalasquatsy Wall, Mt Stapyltyon, Mt Zero Range, Grampians

** Wheels Of Steel 18m 26 [sport]
Stunning prominent orange arête that was strangely ignored by previous climbers. The prow with the
undercut start 5m right of Us Esoterics. Start on ledge as for Us Esoterics. Leap for jug, cut loose out
right to arête. Bouldery moves up this on delightful dishes leads to easier climbing before final pumpy
bulge. 7 bolts and double ring lower-off. Was originally led on two bolts but sense prevailed and now
it’s a very pleasant outing. FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 13.5.2006


Van Diemans Land, Mt Stapylton, Mt Zero Range, Grampians

* The Brian Jonestown Massacre 15m 25
I see yellow, I see orange, I see green and I see blue. Located directly below Janes Addiction. 7 bolts
to lower off. Great. FFA Kent Paterson 13.5.2006

Some photos of these new routes are here:
http://neilshaulbag.smugmug.com/gallery/1459537/1/69606054

nmonteith
19/06/2006
1:41:06 PM
More new routes...

Koalsquatsy Wall, Hollow Mountain, Mt Zero Range, Grampians

Candy Haze 25m 25* [Mixed]
Varied wall climbing with a tough gritty finish. Up Koalaquatsy for 5m (wires). Lean right to clip u-bolt
on rooflet. Out right then up pumpy flake, step left into heucos then over roof to final tricky headwall. 6
UBs and lower-off. FFA Kent Paterson 03-06-2006

Forever Young 15m 23* [Sport]
Expect some big whips! A mystery single rusty bolt has been on this route for many years but
remained un-claimed. It is now a sport route with an exciting finish. Starts about 2m right of Ooh Ooh
Ahh Ahh at slab. Boulder up to first bolt, pump through horizontals then undercling up to shallow
pockets and right facing flake. Now, launch for the top ledge! 4 UBs and lower-off. FFA Neil Monteith
11-06-2006


Van Diemans Land, Hollow Mountain, Mt Zero Range, Grampians

Happiness in Magazines 20m 25* [Sport]
Brilliant pumper. First 6 bolts of The Brian Jonestown Massacre then traverse left on pockets past 2
bolts to join up with the pumpy finish of My Bloody Valentine. 9 bolts.?
FFA Kent Paterson 03-06-2006

Sonic Youth 30m 24 ** [sport]
A mega link-up of the pocketed wall from Terminal Insomnia all the way across to finish up Sisters Of
Mercy. FFA Kent Paterson & Alister Roberston 10.6.2006

(full guide to the area is here http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=26&crag_id=79)

andyR
21/06/2006
7:49:26 AM
Awesome job Neil.

We're very happy!

MrKyle
21/06/2006
9:12:47 AM
Yeah, superb job Neil (and Hatsu and Steve with the bouldering).
BTW You must register to be able to generate the PDFs on the fly.

I'd like to point out that anyone is welcome to contribute routes to a guide, or create their own guide on the ACA site.

We're just going to keep steadily improving it over time.

nmonteith
9/07/2007
12:53:05 PM
A few more new routes for this area (they have been added into the guide)

Gurenica Block Area, Hollow Mountain, Mt Zero Range, Grampians

The following three routes are located on a ‘new’ wall, which is just right of Orange Blossom Special,
and just left of Gurenica Block. The steep corner of Wedge Tail is very obvious, tucked away up high
and just right of the overhung prow that sits above Orange Blossom Special. These routes all have rap
stations in place. An attempt was made on a direct of Decay, but the horrendous loose grey death
blocks thwarted progress. All these routes have been added to the comprehensive online guide at
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=26&crag_id=79

1) Wedge Tail 13m 22 * (Mixed)
Nice shady crack climbing. A very obvious trad corner that just needed a bolt to get started. Starts up
on high ledge (scramble up easy stuff 10m left of Guernica). Bouldery start to gain corner, stem and
lock up this to roof. Swing out right to stance, then swing back left to ledge and rap chain.
FFA Neil Monteith 7.7.2007

2) Slippety Slope 17m 24 * (Sport)
Nigh jugs exist and surprisingly sustained. Starts 6m left of Guernica, and 2m left of offwidth. Up into
cave scoop, up left side (UB) then step onto big ledge. Up tiny orange corner (FH), then trend right up
the steep orange face to end on the grey arête past three more FHs. Easily up airy arête to finish at
rap chain.
FFA Neil Monteith 7.7.2007

3) Decay 18m 24 (Mixed)
Sandy wide crack connects into hard sport route. Starts 2m right of Slippety Slop. Left facing wide
offwidth crack (UB & #5 camalot) then thinner trad crack to sandy ledge. Step off left and swing
across to join into Slippety Slope for its final three bolts. Was supposed to climb direct, but the rock
quality was appalling in the upper section. Not recommended.
FFA Neil Monteith 8.7.2007


nmonteith
15/10/2007
11:17:22 AM
Some new routes have been done at Amnesty Wall in the last month...
The online guide (and topo) has been updated!
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27

The Flying Emu 17m 20 (sport)
Starts on the ground below the overhang 3 metres left of the large chimney chasm to the left of Float
Like A Butterfly. Varied climbing, with good rests, up the orange bulges past 6 FHs. Climb to the top of
the wall. Natural gear required for the belay. Scramble easily off the back. Or step across right and rap
from the single RB on Float Like A Butterfly/Sting Like A Bee.
Rob Booth, Michael O’Reilly and Steve Chapman 5/10/07


The Flying Emu Bar and Grill 25m 22 (sport)
A good linkup route. Climb The Flying Emu until you are on the ledge above the 6th FH. (Use a longer
draw on this FH). Step across right to join Float Like A Butterfly using the jugs at the bottom of the
small cave. Clip the RB (longer draw) next to you, and then move up into the cave. Climb straight up
out of the cave past another RB and FH and arrive at the anchors well toasted.
Michael O’Reilly, Rob Booth and Steve Chapman 5/10/07

* Float Like a Butterfly 24m 24 (sport)
One grade harder than Sting Like a Bee and one grade easier than Amnesty International.
Furthest left route on the main pocketed wall, with FHs. Start on pockets left of the white crack. Keep
left of 1st FH to enter left side of bowl. Across right to 2nd FH then directly up the steep pocketed
crack . Join Sting Like a Bee for 3m using its ring bolts . Continue directly up the line to rap station .
Steve Chapman, Michael O'Reilly and Rob Booth 10-08-2007

Sting Like A Bee Direct 19m 23 (sport)
An easier version of this route. Climb the overhanging start of Sting Like A Bee. Where the original
route traverses left, continue directly up the corner past a FH, and then rejoin the original route.
Michael O’Reilly, Steve Chapman and Rob Booth 5/10/07

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 38
There are 38 messages in this topic.

 

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