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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
VIC Buffalo	Gorge	South Side	Chaos Gully	[ Gorge Guide ]

Topic Date User

Stick Jumping Hippy Logic (95m 22) access Monday, 20 February 2006 At 8:04:49 PM james

Message

when accessing the start of this route, its much easier to skip the 1st 2 raps from the top of the route -
this bypasses climbing on top of the butress (which is a 5m lead in itself, complete with a carrot!). max of
6 bolt plates per pitch, plus bolt plates for the belays (plus a medium cam for pitch 2). Bolts are bomber
glue-in carrots, although a couple were hard to get plates onto so maybe have a couple wires ready just in
case.

So the access would be...

from A Cluttered Room (16), fix a rope & rap down into the gully. Walk/scramble ~100m down the gully to
a big gum tree on the left. From here, head ~5m out along the sloping ledge to 2xbolt belay - i.e. the top
of pitch 1. You'd want to rope up getting out to the belay. Now its just 1 ~35m rap to the ground.

The route itself is pretty damn good - in that fine Buffalo slabbing style...