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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

Screaming Tribesmen, Bungonia

simey

16-May-2011
12:26:42 AM

On 15/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>...half the bolts are still the old homemade hangers and dynabolts,
>...hikes left for a pitch of bush traversing
>...You certainly want to be roped up for this pitch even though its just 4th class scrambling! Very loose blocks and dirt at one point.
>...crozzley (thats limestone speak for dirty!) and badly protected
>...Medium to big cams in poor horizontal which were very crumbly
>...dangerous and certainly unpleasant. Whole footholds and handholds were literally crumbling underneath us.
>...The start of this pitch seems to be missing a bolt??
>...I got some marginal trad gear in this section (poxy cam half only half in and shitty wire in soft rock).
>...We couldn't find any top anchors - and just tied off two little crappy trees.
>...Plenty of loose rock on all new pitches - bring a helmet and don't expect pristine Euro limestone...

>I reckon this new route by itself is two stars and combining it with Iron Curtain makes an awesome three star day of cranking!

Given your description contained the above quotes, I want to know why it should get any stars?!!!


nmonteith

16-May-2011
7:47:52 AM

On 16/05/2011 simey wrote:
>Given your description contained the above quotes, I want to know why
>it should get any stars?!!!

That's all part of the fun on a big adventure rock route! The positives well outweighed the negatives - the positives were big exposure, really sustained pitches & 90% of the time the rock was good. I reckon with a few more bolts protecting the scary sections mentioned above and it would be nicer.

Mark R

16-May-2011
8:22:13 AM

Duncan told me about those gaps... his drill ran out of puff half way through the hole you saw. Part of why we just did the 25 pitch then went straight up (and cos we were tired and soft). Does sound like itll be worthwhile all up when complete though. I thought the 25pitch was a ripper and goes really nicely with the all natural 23 pitch of screaming tribesmen. Love that wall.


nmonteith

16-May-2011
8:25:47 AM

On 16/05/2011 Mark R wrote:
>Duncan told me about those gaps... his drill ran out of puff half way through
>the hole you saw.

It would have been good if he had told Chockstone about those gaps rather than saying it was a sport route!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

16-May-2011
8:17:57 PM

On 16/05/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>On 16/05/2011 Mark R wrote:
>>Duncan told me about those gaps... his drill ran out of puff half way
>through
>>the hole you saw.
>
>It would have been good if he had told Chockstone about those gaps rather
>than saying it was a ~~sport~~ sandbag route!

Thereyago. Fixed that for you nm!

dclimber

16-May-2011
9:50:40 PM

Hi Neil

I am glad you like the route. Thanks for letting me know you enjoyed it.

Apologies if you did not get all the info. I did not really mean to explain the route in my post before and I did say PM me for the topo.

Plan to add some more bolts to the obvious gaps if no one gets round to it till I get to it. I plan to when I get back from Pakistan.

D


nmonteith

16-May-2011
10:26:05 PM

How recently did you do the FFA Duncan? There was a bit of chalk on it - and the drill dust looked new. I presume you only did it in the last few weeks?

There are 27 messages in this topic.