17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
I prefer to think that there is heaps of climbing out there, just the small population and lack of easy access has meant it hasn't been discovered and developed yet. The evidence would suggest otherwise but I'm in denial...
There is a surprising amount of rock out this way within the Golden hour (or a little more) of Wagga that I have found in my wanderings. The reasons for it not being developped or known about;
1. Not many climbers out this way,
2. Its a long way from the capital cities.
But there is;
The Rock - 20 min drive from Wagga, The Towers is the most developed area faces north and is good quality layered quartzite with the odd loose flake or block. Towers is the best area at The Rock with mostly trad and some recent new routes and anchors eliminate the need to climb metres of choss to the top. The big main cliff (visible from the road) is death choss stacked fridge and microwave blocks but a nice walk and view. Some potential exists on the central buttress but its a fair walk and scrub bash in.
Holbrook - 40 mins, has a large granite cliff on the East side of the Hume Fwy with some routes on it. Yet to have the time to explore this and you have to cross private land to get to the reserve.
Blowering Reservoir - 1 hr 15 mins has a bunch of very large cliffs directly above it. Any one know of any docuemented routes here???
Talbingo Mountain - 1 hr 30 mins has some very large crags on its western side, 4WD access off the Snowy mountains Hwy
Yarrangobilly - Limestone Gorge off the Snowy River.
Morgans Lookut - 1 hr ish On the Walla Walla Rd, granite boulders, sharp and crumbly.
Scenic Hill Griffith - 1.5 hrs bouldering quartzite.
Cocoparra National Park - 1.5hrs lots of quartzite, yet to be explored but heaps of boulder potential and maybe routes.
Black Perry/Unamed Cliff - 2 hrs plus, if you feel like some adventure, these are 2 very big cliff cliffs on the northern sude of Caves Creek in the Bogong Peaks Wilderness north of the Snowy mountains Highway south east of Tumut.
Wagga Cemetry - some average granite boulders above the Kooringal Rd cemetry make for a fun afternoon or two of bouldering.
Adelong Falls - has some bouldering on water washed granite and possibly a few small routes at the bottom but nothing significant.
There is more out there but I cant tell you about them not because they are secret but because I have yet to have the time to have a look at them properly and dont know anything about them apart from a glance from a distance. Wagga and Albury do have the advantage of being close to the back of the Alps and there is a massive amount of rock out in those hill for those who want to explore by 4WD.
On 12/11/2015 mattbrooks wrote:
>Blowering Reservoir - 1 hr 15 mins has a bunch of very large cliffs directly
>above it. Any one know of any docuemented routes here???
I repeated a crack route leading to the top of the detached pinnacle located toward the southern end of Blowering cliffs in 1971. I was unable to find first ascent details at the time and can confirm that it wasn't Tumut civil Defence (read SES), or Scouts.
I suspect mine was the second ascent, and I was aware it had been done earlier due the rock cairn located on top of it.
These days I strongly suspect the fellow (can't remember his name at the moment), a Euro who worked for SMA and who put up routes at Yarrangobilly and Blue Water Holes was responsible for it.
... I have a vague memory of his name being mentioned on the Blue Water Holes thread??
Post edit: Czechs Mylec & Nemec!
Access to that section of cliff is best by going straight up the ridge that forms the south side of Ryans Ck, surmounting the initial slab below the main cliff and traversing right to the base of the notch between pinnacle and cliff.
Fantastic views from the top, that can also be gained (without climbing gear), via an exposed scramble up the gully on the other (north) end of the same cliff.
I also put up a route just left of the intermittent waterfall on the more expansive slabs located about 1.5 km further north (adjacent the powerlines / powerline access 4wd track).
Post edit: All been said before!
>Talbingo Mountain - 1 hr 30 mins has some very large crags on its western
>side, 4WD access off the Snowy mountains Hwy
Yes, but blocked by a locked gate these days.
I have checked it out at the main summit gully (that has the most precipitous cliffs flanking it & not far from the fire tower), closely, and the rock is pretty chossy...
The cliffs located south of the main summit are harder to access but the rock looked a bit better there, but still without obvious lines to my eye at time of visit.
>Yarrangobilly - Limestone Gorge off the Snowy River.
See comment above re the Euro SMA worker.
>Morgans Lookut - 1 hr ish On the Walla Walla Rd, granite boulders, sharp
I did one route there. A 12 m crack on the back RH side. The main attraction of the place is that it is located just above the property where the first organised shearers strike occurred in Australia, effectively the birth of the Labour Party!
>Scenic Hill Griffith - 1.5 hrs bouldering quartzite.
>Cocoparra National Park - 1.5hrs lots of quartzite, yet to be explored
>but heaps of boulder potential and maybe routes.
>Black Perry/Unamed Cliff - 2 hrs plus, if you feel like some adventure,
>these are 2 very big cliff cliffs on the northern sude of Caves Creek in
>the Bogong Peaks Wilderness north of the Snowy mountains Highway south
>east of Tumut.
Your 2 hr timeframe is off ☺, as it is actually closer access to Snowy Mtns Hwy and closer to Talbingo than the firetrail leading to the fire-tower onTalbingo Mtn.
In 1972 I did a route pretty much up the guts of the west face of Black Perry. Very bold runouts due scant protection opportunities, but the rock is sound. Most notable memory of that climb was that anything that looked like a decent belay stance was covered in goat shit, but a fantastic adventure nevertheless.
The second (unamed) cliff located about a km further north has one route that is direct to the 'cave' then rising diagonal traverse off left to top-out. I put it up as part of an exploratory trip to check out that 'cave' located just below its headwall. We climbed to the apex of the hidden roof within the 'cave' that isn't really a cave but just an aven-like feature under an overhang... Another post with a bit of further info.
We also explored 3 small limestone depressions (not really big enough to call sink holes!), in Caves Creek. The largest of these had about 15 (maybe 20?), m of grovelly rabbit burrow style cave in fractured fissures within it...
The ridge on north side of Caves Ck/Jounama Ck leading back toward Jounama Pondage/Talbingo from the Black Perry & 'Cave'-cliff area is interesting for the prospector diggings located along it...
One day, if I ever get around to scanning them, I may post up some old black and white kodak instamatic photos of those adventures on this site...
>Wagga Cemetry - some average granite boulders above the Kooringal Rd cemetry
>make for a fun afternoon or two of bouldering.
>Adelong Falls - has some bouldering on water washed granite and possibly
>a few small routes at the bottom but nothing significant.
>There is more out there but I cant tell you about them not because they
>are secret but because I have yet to have the time to have a look at them
>properly and dont know anything about them apart from a glance from a distance.
>Wagga and Albury do have the advantage of being close to the back of the
>Alps and there is a massive amount of rock out in those hill for those
>who want to explore by 4WD.
A 2wd will get you close enough to a lot of it...
The best stuff is still a significant bush-bash away from the nearest 4WD track...
I still have a couple of projects on my bucket list in that part of the world...
>happy exploring folks,