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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

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New anchors and re-bolting at Lower Baldy


rodw

22-Mar-2011
11:35:05 AM

On 22/03/2011 superstu wrote:
>My understanding is that the sport climbing development in the Gardens
>of Stone NP you refer to, really pissed off NPWS and probably went some
>way to contribute to the anti-climbing stance by NPWS at the time.

Wrong understanding there stu..the Gardens of stone is a park that has grown over the years and has swallowed alot of State forest/crown land.....a lot of the devlopment up there predates the NP and NPWS were well and truly entrenched in there bad attitude towards climbers b4 it was created...nothing done since then in GOS NP has made it any worse.


vwills

22-Mar-2011
12:34:43 PM

I think there were 4 climbers at the Wolgan on the weekend. I dont think there is any issue with overcrowding. Some replacement of the mankiest gear is very welcome and thanks for doing it. I have no problems using rings instead of carrots. A lot of metric bolts dont take PFH hangers which is a real pain in the butt when you are half way up a climb (Maquillage springs to mind).
Rings have been used before (eg at the rap station from the top of the Excalibur-Scimitar area) as well as chain and maillons etc in many other locations. A few more rap stations would improve what is sometimes a dicey walk to a tree (eg at the top of Mirrorman).
Wade wasnt anti bolts. (Just anti cragx).


Superstu

22-Mar-2011
1:29:56 PM

I wasn't trumpeting the anti-bolt horn. I have the rap on Mirrorman on my list of things to cleap up around the Wolgan with Mr Bosch. But the whole appeal of the Wolgan is that its not Centennial Glen, and my only wish is for other people to agree with me on this. :-)

widewetandslippery

22-Mar-2011
1:54:36 PM

I agree, The Wolgan has the potential to be a quality sport crag.

Duncan

22-Mar-2011
3:10:13 PM

On 22/03/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I agree, The Wolgan has the potential to be a quality sport crag.

Five stars.


Superstu

22-Mar-2011
3:27:53 PM

Meh, what kinda spurt climber is going to walk uphill for an hour to a crag?


Superstu

22-Mar-2011
3:46:35 PM

Oh and since the rock is so soft and crappy down there, it never forms anything steep enough. Every climb in the Wolgan is a slab. Even the grade 30's!


nmonteith

22-Mar-2011
3:55:20 PM

On 22/03/2011 superstu wrote:
>Meh, what kinda spurt climber is going to walk uphill for an hour to a
>crag?

Most popular crags in the Wolgan are more like 30 minutes up a hill! Any sport climber in Australia who isn't from NSW does this every weekend. The Gallery, Star Factory, Moonarie, The Pulpit - all involve similar uphill slogs.


The good Dr

22-Mar-2011
4:22:37 PM

On 22/03/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>On 22/03/2011 superstu wrote:
>>Meh, what kinda spurt climber is going to walk uphill for an hour to
>a
>>crag?
>
>Most popular crags in the Wolgan are more like 30 minutes up a hill! Any
>sport climber in Australia who isn't from NSW does this every weekend.
>The Gallery, Star Factory, Moonarie, The Pulpit - all involve similar uphill
>slogs.

So that explains why they apparently climb so hard in NSW (don't have to walk = skinny light legs).


cruze

22-Mar-2011
4:31:08 PM

On 22/03/2011 superstu wrote:
>Meh, what kinda spurt climber is going to walk uphill for an hour to a
>crag?
Yeah I heard that the Frenchies were sick of calling Ceuse a trad adventure cliff so they are going to install a chairlift to redefine it as a sport crag.

dalai

22-Mar-2011
6:13:06 PM

On 22/03/2011 cruze wrote:
>On 22/03/2011 superstu wrote:
>>Meh, what kinda spurt climber is going to walk uphill for an hour to
>a
>>crag?
>Yeah I heard that the Frenchies were sick of calling Ceuse a trad adventure
>cliff so they are going to install a chairlift to redefine it as a sport
>crag.

;-)

Actually there is a chairlift, but over the top. Beautiful grassy plateau in fact...


IdratherbeclimbingM9

22-Mar-2011
8:28:12 PM

On 22/03/2011 The Good Dr wrote:
>On 22/03/2011 Macciza wrote:
>>Rings in the Wolgan - Whats the world coming to - Farking ridiculous
>imho
>>Bloody Pusillanimous Sportclimbers . . . Wussy Pussies . . .
>>Don't anyone even think of putting rings in Big Glassy or else!!!
>>
>Lots of people have thought about it. So you had better make good on your
>threats.
>
>It is too chossy even by Bluies standards for real climbers to even bother
>with. You can be rest assured that it will be left for aid officianados
>to bash the crap out of for years to come and brag to everyone about how
>hardcore they are (yawn)

Have not noticed any free routes going up Big Glassy lately...
;-)

mabsydney

22-Mar-2011
8:38:48 PM

Hey vwills, were you guys out there last weekend? We saw some people on Cactus - probably you guys? I plan to renew a few things at the Coke Ovens in winter too......there are some classic lines (Street car visions and Mothers Drugs to name 2) that would be great again with some new bolts.


dave h.

22-Mar-2011
9:38:53 PM

On 22/03/2011 superstu wrote:
>... But the
>whole appeal of the Wolgan is that its not Centennial Glen, and
>my only wish is for other people to agree with me on this. :-)
>

Absolutely. To reiterate the comments made earlier, the wolgan's terrible. You can't rap with less then 90m of rope, and it's full of snakes, stinging nettles and deadly concealed mine shafts... the tracks are impossible to follow, and if by some unfortunate chance you do find your route you will wish you hadn't...

But seriously, thanks for taking the time and trouble to lug bolting gear up those hills...


vwills

22-Mar-2011
9:52:34 PM

Wasnt us on Cactus- maybe there were 6 climbers in the Wolgan on the weekend! So crowded! Maybe word has got out, that its now a sports climbing mecca.
Went to the Coke Ovens Fri afternoon but as I had climbed Cactus in the rain last October weekend I fancied doing some other routes that I could potentially get rained off. Actually the weather improved a bit, enough to get up Old Baldy on Saturday. We saw climbers at the Coke Ovens across the valley. Went to Coal Cliffs Sunday and did 5 routes between showers. Realised how bad the weather had been in the mtns heading down Bells Line with rain, fog, and packed cars at the Bowens carpark (in March).

mabsydney

23-Mar-2011
8:01:22 AM

Oh, you must have been on the upper tier above us then. Yeah we were lucky with the weather in the crowded Wolgan.

bradc

23-Mar-2011
11:36:03 AM

Hey Vanessa - did you have any sightings of the attacking wedgie on Old Baldy?


Superstu

23-Mar-2011
11:40:55 AM

Wilbur the Wedgie normally attacks victorians but is currently being trained to also identify sport climbers wielding bolt guns from 300m.

simey

23-Mar-2011
12:50:48 PM

On 23/03/2011 superstu wrote:
>Wilbur the Wedgie normally attacks victorians but is currently being trained to also identify sport climbers wielding bolt guns from 300m.

I don't think Wilbur is a suitable name as I think it is a female. Apparently the females are bigger than the males and from my up close and personal inspection I can assure you that this is one big bird.

By the way, what do people think about a set of rap anchors in the vicinity of Cactus on the Coke Ovens Cliffs? Given it is one of the mega classic routes in the Wolgan, I almost died when I saw the skanky trees you have to rely on for the rap descent.


Superstu

23-Mar-2011
12:57:52 PM

Wilma the Wedgie?

There are 44 messages in this topic.