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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Pharos (General) Back Wall [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Bolt on last pitch of Judgement Day??

jezza
8/03/2011
10:33:21 AM
I have done this route a few times now. The second pitch is incredible. The third pitch is also good. What's the story with the ring bolt on the third pitch? It's close to good gear. With the old pin, and the shiny ring bolt, the last pitch of Judgement Day is now basically a sport route. I'm guessing that the ring bolt is part of 'Give Me Convenience Or Give Me Death' (28)? Anyway that bolt ruins the fun of the last pitch of Judgement Day. A shame.

tnd
8/03/2011
10:44:08 AM
Get a life.

hangdog
8/03/2011
12:03:03 PM
You dont have to clip it!!
Wendy
8/03/2011
1:10:16 PM
I did Shivers the other week. It joins judgement day mid 3rd pitch, basically at the stonker 8 rock. I hung out there for ages recovering before launching up the last crack. I was never even remotely tempted to clip the bolt. In fact, I can't even remember exactly where it is. You would have to purposefully climb off route to clip it, i don't think it's an issue. If people want to go out of their way to clip it, it's not the only such bolt in the world.
widewetandslippery
8/03/2011
1:12:32 PM
good work. Is it as scary as it looks?
Wendy
8/03/2011
1:28:09 PM
i had a bold and intrepid leader for the 2nd pitch. Sadly, he bailed on me, so we only did the first pitch. It's hard, but safe as houses. Apparantly the 2nd pitch is a harder version of the traverse on Birdman and protected by RPs. And Malcolm fell off it. I find that disconcerting.

jezza
8/03/2011
2:20:02 PM
On 8/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>I did Shivers the other week. It joins judgement day mid 3rd pitch, basically
>at the stonker 8 rock. I hung out there for ages recovering before launching
>up the last crack. I was never even remotely tempted to clip the bolt.
>In fact, I can't even remember exactly where it is. You would have to
>purposefully climb off route to clip it, i don't think it's an issue.
>If people want to go out of their way to clip it, it's not the only such
>bolt in the world.

No, it's right there, on route. Right at the crux, next to good gear. There's no way it's a 19 with that bolt. I'd still like to know where it came from.
Wendy
8/03/2011
5:21:03 PM
right where? how come i wasn't anywhere near it?
Fish Boy
8/03/2011
9:30:09 PM
Did it 8 months ago and there was a ring a couple of moves above me but not on route.

Nottobetaken
8/03/2011
11:05:23 PM
Were you doing this move when you tried to clip the bolt?
(White line obviously JDay)...

jezza
8/03/2011
11:13:41 PM
Holy crap, yes I'm pretty sure that's it. When I led it, I stepped onto that ledge and clipped the bolt. The other time I seconded it, and my leader did exactly the same thing. Sorry you couldn't reach it Wendy. Did you notice the dotted white line? The rain may have washed it off.

I'm just wondering, why is that ring bolt there? What purpose is it serving?
Nottobetaken
8/03/2011
11:37:03 PM
To lower the overall grade of judgment day clearly by introducing a new crux obviously...

ajfclark
9/03/2011
7:21:15 AM
Looking at the photo above, reading the guide and the topo, my guess is the same as yours: that's the bolt on Give Me Convenience or Give Me Death (28). Maybe that's what the name is about? You should ask Ingvar...
Wendy
9/03/2011
8:13:39 AM
On 8/03/2011 jezza wrote:
>Holy crap, yes I'm pretty sure that's it. When I led it, I stepped onto
>that ledge and clipped the bolt. The other time I seconded it, and my
>leader did exactly the same thing. Sorry you couldn't reach it Wendy.


You guys must have been doing too much sport climbing and instinctively headed for the bolt! I have my hands on that stuff that you stood on, head right a move, up into an undercling/layaway for the left then into the crack. I don't get any higher up than that dotted line until i'm in the crack.

>
>I'm just wondering, why is that ring bolt there? What purpose is it serving?

Like Pooh, it just is ... No really, it's in Ingvar's route.

Butters81
9/03/2011
8:21:05 AM
On 8/03/2011 jezza wrote:
>Holy crap, yes I'm pretty sure that's it. When I led it, I stepped onto
>that ledge and clipped the bolt. The other time I seconded it, and my
>leader did exactly the same thing. Sorry you couldn't reach it Wendy.
>Did you notice the dotted white line? The rain may have washed it off.
>
>I'm just wondering, why is that ring bolt there? What purpose is it serving?

Why'd you clip it if it's close to good gear and you don't like the fact it's there?

jezza
9/03/2011
10:15:53 AM
>No really, it's in Ingvar's route.
I wonder why he put a bolt there, when there's so much gear about? I guess both of us went off route by 50cm onto that ledge, lured by the shiny-ness of that ring bolt. The ledge provides a reasonable rest. There's a bunch of chalk near the bolt, and I'd be surprised if most other parties don't do the same thing.

It doesn't really matter. It's just a shame that it's on a *** moderate route, for the sake of a * hard route that probably doesn't see much traffic, and doesn't seem to need the bolt there anyway.
Wendy
9/03/2011
10:19:58 AM
I suspect if you continued up GMEOGMD you'd rapidly feel a very long way above the wire in the break (which would be below your feel when you clipped the bolt. The gear in the traverse on Shivers are shitty RPs, so you're not actually heading towards amazing gear. Ingvar has put up some pretty bold routes in his time (see Fully Loaded or that silly traverse thing on Tjuringa Wall) so I doubt he's put it in because he's a wuss.

nmonteith
9/03/2011
10:23:44 AM
By the looks of the photo the bolt is at least a metre above the trad. Does Ingvar's route go straight up? If so this bolt probably protects moves higher up above the judgment day traverse. If it was cruxy up there I can see the reason for the bolt.

jezza
9/03/2011
10:40:32 AM
Anyway I'm sure Ingvar has a logical explanation for it. FWIW, I reckon he's changed the way 90% of folks onsighting Judgement Day will climb it, and reduced the grade.

nmonteith
9/03/2011
10:43:07 AM
I still don't get your proposition that clipping a bolt will change the grade. You said yourself that the gear is bomber - so how is clipping another bit of bomber gear changing the grade? If it made it way less run-out then you might have a point... but it seems like its just the same.

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 55
There are 55 messages in this topic.

 

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