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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 79
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
change in access to cosmic county/freezer nsw

benjenga
27/02/2012
4:09:19 PM
Looks like a good alternative.
TonyB
28/02/2012
7:27:54 AM
Buddha believed that origin of private ownership was degradation and dishonesty. About private property, Buddha spoke in explicit words that private ownership is the source of "cheating, imbalance (weighing), cheating in measuring, bribery, ingratitude, conspiracy, assault, slaughter, slavery, robbery, looting and murder".
http://www.buddhistchannel.tv/index.php?id=8,5332,0,0,1,0

... the primary activity which a Buddhist learns to develop is unselfish sharing, which forms a basis for further moral and spiritual development.
http://www.exoticindiaart.com/article/dana/

nmonteith
28/02/2012
7:51:46 AM
On 28/02/2012 TonyB wrote:
>... the primary activity which a Buddhist learns to develop is unselfish
>sharing, which forms a basis for further moral and spiritual development.

Problem is, we will have to convince the other two landowners that the road crosses to become Buddhists as well!
One Day Hero
28/02/2012
1:25:58 PM
This whole thing pisses me off beyond belief. I've never seen climbers being disruptive whilst walking past those houses. What a bunch of petty, selfish pricks the landowners are. I'm super keen to chop a track on the public land, hard up against their boundary fence. I then hope to bring a boombox and some booze, and be as intrusive and annoying as I possibly can.....just to teach these c--ts a bit of a lesson.

JMK
28/02/2012
5:48:54 PM
I cannot believe how selfish some people are and I am not talking about the landowners!!!!! We have it good here in oz and ANYTHING that could potentially upset our access must be avoided not only for us but those who come after. What is the point about bitching about land owner issues - how it came about is now irrelevant - just deal with it or you just sound like a whining baby. Remember that climbing while a passion is basically an irrelevant activity and we need to protect our access in a law abiding manner or the privilidge of climbing will be taken away like it was with the west wall of the 3 sisters. Do you really want to risk that?

Climboholic
28/02/2012
6:01:56 PM
Hi JMK,

If you're not on Chockstone often you might not be aware that ODH tends to stress a point with over-exaggeration and colourful use of the English language. I think he does it as much for humour as to make a point. I doubt he would actually do what he said above (I'm sure you'll correct me if I'm wrong ODH).

E. Wells
28/02/2012
6:40:10 PM
ODH you know what boom boxes do to NSW sandstone. Take it easy out there

rodw
Online Now
28/02/2012
7:14:08 PM
On 28/02/2012 Climboholic wrote:
>If you're not on Chockstone often you might not be aware that ODH tends
>to stress a point with over-exaggeration and colourful use of the English
>language.

Just post the picture of ODH with his stupid hat on.....I haven't been able to take him seriously since I saw that.

Climboholic
29/02/2012
11:03:55 AM
On 28/02/2012 dangermouth wrote:
>ODH you know what boom boxes do to NSW sandstone. Take it easy out there

The thought of a cliff disintegrating with a bit of heavy base made me laugh.

We did 'I Had a Dream' on the weekend (from the front cover of the guide). We abseiled in and saw what appeared to be a good ledge a few meters below the anchors which were a hanging belay. So decided to abseil down and belay from there.

All was going fine until it was my turn to climb. A hold broke off as I was cleaning the belay and I fell another 3-4 meters with rope stretch, to a point where the cliff was undercut and vegitated. After a lot of struggling and swearing I eventually managed to get back up to the anchors. It seemed a couple of grades harder than the rest of the route but I didn't have a choice because was below our abseil rope.

As I climbed past the ledge I put a bit of pressure on a block of rock and it literally disintergrated into a pile of dust. I was astounded that it could have held it's shape one moment then and suddenly turn to dust in an instant.

It was like something you'd see in a Vampire movie where the whole thing just instantly disintergrates into a pile of dust!

Moral of the story: If you do 'I Had a Dream' put up with the discomfort of the hanging belay and don't go down to the ledge from hell with the Vampire rocks!

nmonteith
29/02/2012
11:29:07 AM
How was the rest of the route Andrew?
f_ladou
29/02/2012
11:38:21 AM
Yes, how was it? Perhaps in another thread?

Climboholic
29/02/2012
12:13:11 PM
Quiet good. The rock quality on the rest of the route was better but I did break off a small knob about 7m before the finish with my foot. I was annoyed at myself because it seemed like a relitively good handhold and there were plenty of other places I should have put my feet. But it's still doable because there is a crimp above it.

Gerd who led it, said that he didn't think it deserved the stars it got in the guide.

Oh, and don't do it at sunrise! It gets about 1hr of sun down the gully just after dawn and you can't see any holds on your right.

There's not much more info I can offer. All I know was that I was happy to be on second!

Probably worth doing if you're running out of grade 25s.


climbau
29/02/2012
6:00:29 PM
On 27/02/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>Looks like a good solution Mike - mainly because you don't have to walk
>anywhere near the train lines. Currently the walking track on the outside
>of the fence next to the train line is totally overgrown - so it forces
>you to jump/squeeze the fence and walk along next to the train line - not
>ideal.
Yeah, that track has grown over heaps in the last 7 months or so! Too much rain and sunshine, bring back the drought!

BlankSlab
10/08/2012
11:29:49 AM
Is the access to Cosmic County still Via Dam Cliffs at the moment?
Or is the alternative the Mikl mentaioned better?

To enter via Dam clifs where is the best place to park and walk from?

benjenga
10/08/2012
4:57:07 PM
Heading out that way tomorrow so i will give it a try.
bobic
10/08/2012
6:58:31 PM
On 10/08/2012 benjenga wrote:
>Heading out that way tomorrow so i will give it a try.

You're game heading out in this weather. Take your woolly undies.

climbau
10/08/2012
8:38:29 PM
On 10/08/2012 Batey wrote:
>Is the access to Cosmic County still Via Dam Cliffs at the moment?
>Or is the alternative the Mikl mentaioned better?
>
>To enter via Dam clifs where is the best place to park and walk from?
Park in the gravel pit near the train line (watch out for trees that may want to crush your car this weekend). Walk towards the train line and follow the fence left. until you hit the big tree and head down the hill. The fine details are all in the guide books.

E. Wells
10/08/2012
9:14:31 PM
'In this weather' that is exactly where you want to be!! get a tan for me......

benjenga
11/08/2012
10:34:54 PM
On 10/08/2012 dangermouth wrote:
>'In this weather' that is exactly where you want to be!! get a tan for
>me......
>

Yep you got it right, one of the best days at cosmic I have ever had. Pearly weather and a wicked crew with classic routes for everybody.

So we walked in via mike suggested access, we just walked straight down from the gate at the back of the normal car park. There isn't really a track but the bush is light, you walk past a coupe of wombat holes then cross the creek and you hit the tar road heading to 5 ways.
Easy, adds maybe 8 mins extra walk.

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 79
There are 79 messages in this topic.

 

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