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Crag & Route Beta

Area	Location	Sub Location	Crag	Links
All NSW	(General)	(General)	(General)

Author

Anyone climbed this

TonyB

26-Feb-2011
9:06:15 AM

Has anyone climbed this ?:

It looks like it has some good potential. The crag is about 20m high with a 2nd tier above it. It is around 100m wide. Short, easy scenic walk in.


rodw

26-Feb-2011
9:17:02 AM

Location?

TonyB

26-Feb-2011
9:17:50 AM

Can you guess ? ;-)
It's a suburban crag, in need of your bolting expertise.


rodw

26-Feb-2011
9:28:37 AM

If its close I might come to the party...I have no idea of location...PM me details.

mikllaw

26-Feb-2011
9:59:17 AM

Poonang crag 27, 25, 24 26, next to Narrabeen steep side

TonyB

26-Feb-2011
10:38:48 AM

That's it Mike. It looks like the last time anyone was there was when you were a boy. There's 3 very hard looking routes under the mega roof around the corner to the left of the pic.

The area in the pic looks as though it has some nice routes waiting to be bolted. Do you know if anyone has climbed this area ?


pmonks

26-Feb-2011
12:10:04 PM

Described here, although from Mikl's description above it sounds like there are more routes than were in the 1991 guide. I briefly checked out the crag once circa 1998, but couldn't really make out the routes before I ran out of time (hence the "Not Checked" warning).

Several years later I was contacted by one "Catherine Gockley" who was desperate to get in touch with Leonard Coyne. I have no idea what the back-story was, but the tone of our conversation made it sound rather intriguing! ;-)

TonyB

26-Feb-2011
12:57:00 PM

Here's a pic of the routes Mikl mentioned:

The larger and higher unbolted area is around the corner to the right.

martym

26-Feb-2011
10:21:40 PM

On 26/02/2011 TonyB wrote:
>

It bears a very strong resembelance to Jabba the Hut...

27-Feb-2011
9:44:28 PM

I had taken a number of trips out to this section a few years back with grand intentions of equipping about 5 - 6 routes. There is a bit of evidence of my activities with a few first bolt holes etc. I also installed a bit of infrastructure at the right hand end of the crag to gain access to the upper ledge (there may still be a scrap bit of rope in place) and to make moving along the ledge a little safer.
I basically abandoned the plans with a change of jobs, kids weekend sport and more cycling than climbing taking up my time. Happy to share some thoughts on the likely routes. This place would be an excellent winter Sydney venue.. it bakes most of the rest of the time.
Chris


rodw

27-Feb-2011
11:03:17 PM

Checked it out today for a bit of a reccy.

CJ saw your handy work up high today...tat and rope looking a bit sun bleached :)

Btw you had a bag of slings there ya want em back?

George

28-Feb-2011
12:03:25 AM

On 26/02/2011 martym wrote:
>It bears a very strong resembelance to Jabba the Hut...

true resemblance mate!
how many Jabba the Hut can you see in the wall?


sbm

28-Feb-2011
12:07:44 AM

On 26/02/2011 pmonks wrote:
>desperate to get in touch with Leonard Coyne.

Btw would this be the legendary black canyon hardman Leonard Coyne? Was he really poking around wakehurst parkway when he was in oz?

Dr Jeff

28-Feb-2011
3:18:54 AM

Sure was, Leonard and I put up these climbs in the late 80's and a few at the steep side too.

I am in the protracted process of making them consumer friendly with rings but as I am currently on a four month stint climbing in Spain (with Ed) it will be delayed.

I was wondering when the clifflet would be rediscovered.

Leonard and I also put up a lot of climbs around Spenser (where he lived at that time), some worthy of rediscovery too.

Jeff


pmonks

28-Feb-2011
5:28:11 AM

On 28/02/2011 Dr Jeff wrote:
>Leonard and I also put up a lot of climbs around Spenser (where he lived
>at that time), some worthy of rediscovery too.

Were you in touch with Phil Stallard and the Wondabyne crew at all? They put up routes all over the Hawkesbury (most of them unrecorded and/or unremembered) and he specifically mentioned Spencer as one of the better options at one point.

TonyB

28-Feb-2011
7:09:34 AM

CJ, there's an easy scramble up, a few metres past the remains of your bit of infrastructure.

Did you check out the upper tier at all ?

JarryS88

28-Feb-2011
2:44:45 PM

On 28/02/2011 Dr Jeff wrote:
>Sure was, Leonard and I put up these climbs in the late 80's and a few
>at the steep side too.
>
>I am in the protracted process of making them consumer friendly with rings
>but as I am currently on a four month stint climbing in Spain (with Ed)
>it will be delayed.
>
>I was wondering when the clifflet would be rediscovered.
>
>Leonard and I also put up a lot of climbs around Spenser (where he lived
>at that time), some worthy of rediscovery too.
>
>Jeff
>

i'm keen to try "Is this climb my wife".

correct me if im wrong but is the last move the crux? i was sussing it out last saturday and it looked like a fun climb.

JarryS88

28-Feb-2011
2:47:16 PM

On 26/02/2011 TonyB wrote:
>Has anyone climbed this ?:
>
>

>
>It looks like it has some good potential. The crag is about 20m high
>with a 2nd tier above it. It is around 100m wide. Short, easy scenic
>walk in.

The routes I mentioned Tom and I were looking at were finishing on the overhang on top left of this picture.

JarryS88

28-Feb-2011
3:32:02 PM

On 26/02/2011 martym wrote:
>On 26/02/2011 TonyB wrote:
>>

>
>It bears a very strong resembelance to Jabba the Hut...
>

possible suggestion to route names

28-Feb-2011
8:52:14 PM

Beyond my access point it was all rather vegetated back then, so I did'nt notice an easier approach. The upper tier, from what I can remember was relatively short and I think the quality of the rock was lesser than the lower bit, but with fresh eyes, who knows... develop away!
Hey Rod, help yourself to the slings, they have been there a while but might be useful in the garage or in the woody etc.

There are 31 messages in this topic.