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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 5 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 93
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo (General) (General) (General) [ Mt Buffalo Guide | Images ] 

Author
Carrots At Buffalo

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31/01/2011
6:08:17 PM
Don't mind me, as I may be getting old and losing the ability to concentrate...
Heh,? heh,? heh?
~> I seconded another bloke at the time whose first quickdraw nearly self unclipped (was able to clean the draw and plate simultaneously without unclipping it), so my counting ability may have been a little freaked out.

I shall go back and repeat it soon (to count bolts), to confirm if I am going senile.
rolsen1
31/01/2011
8:00:23 PM
On 31/01/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Don't mind me, as I may be getting old and losing the ability to concentrate...
>
>Heh,? heh,? heh?
>~> I seconded another bloke at the time whose first quickdraw nearly self
>unclipped (was able to clean the draw and plate simultaneously without
>unclipping it), so my counting ability may have been a little freaked out.
>
>
>I shall go back and repeat it soon (to count bolts), to confirm if I am
>going senile.

Gee wizz, M9 what a way to stir up a controversy.

I heard that Angels is now a sport route, is that true as well?
kieranl
Online Now
31/01/2011
8:57:44 PM
On 31/01/2011 rolsen1 wrote:

>I heard that Angels is now a sport route, is that true as well?
Yes. Best done wearing shorts to liberate the knees. Wonderful textural experience..
tskinner
31/01/2011
10:42:08 PM
On 31/01/2011 kieranl wrote:
>On 31/01/2011 rolsen1 wrote:
>
>>I heard that Angels is now a sport route, is that true as well?
>Yes. Best done wearing shorts to liberate the knees. Wonderful textural
>experience..

Yes....I would have loved to have seen Ajfclarks legs if he wore shorts on the Aus Day trip to Buff . His knees, his shins, his thighs, his calves were all sporting lovely colours and textural effects. And that was with trousers on. They probably look even more interesting now

ajfclark
1/02/2011
7:47:22 AM
It's all cleared up now actually. Should've taken photos.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/02/2011
2:26:31 PM
On 31/01/2011 rolsen1 wrote:
>Gee wizz, M9 what a way to stir up a controversy.

&
On 12/01/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>Fark, 7 bolts on a 15m slab! Who pulled that shit? That route was already a clip-up as slabs go.




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☻♥♦♣♠◘< ... ... .. .



Heh, heh, heh.
One Day Hero
1/02/2011
10:12:52 PM
On 14/01/2011 gordoste wrote:
>
>Gran Torino is bad-ass. Million Dollar Baby is pretty damn good but not
>really very bad-ass.

So Gordo, following your recommendation I watched Gran Torino last night. This viewing has led me to three conclusions;

#1) Your taste in films is terrible.......I suspect that this problem is not restricted to cinema, please don't ever recommend routes to me as I will assume that they are garbage from that point on.

#2) My initial assessment of Clint's descent from coolness was spot on, apart from my glaring error in forgetting about Unforgiven (ta for reminding me Wide, its actually one of my favorite westerns)

#3) You owe me 2hrs of my life back! I will collect this debt in whatever manner I see fit, it will probably involve you belaying me on some project.......and just to drive home the fact that your life is being wasted, I'll pick a route which is way to hard for me. I will then proceed to dangle off the same bolt for longer than you would imagine is possible, barely pulling on for a second at a time, but spraying about how "close it feels"

cruze
2/02/2011
8:47:32 AM
On 1/02/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 14/01/2011 gordoste wrote:
>>
>>Gran Torino is bad-ass. Million Dollar Baby is pretty damn good but not
>>really very bad-ass.
>
>So Gordo, following your recommendation I watched Gran Torino last night.
>This viewing has led me to three conclusions;
>
>#3) You owe me 2hrs of my life back!

I stopped watching it after about 1 hour - I just couldn't take another Days of Our Lives/Too many opiates look from Clint - "I really need to hang a shite but I forgot to have my metamucil this morning". I opted for sleep - far more satisfying.

gordoste
2/02/2011
9:20:02 AM
fine with me... belaying can be uncomfortable but hanging in a harness for 2 hours is worse! Most crags I can get to and from within 2 hours are beneath your high standards anyway :)

IdratherbeclimbingM9
2/02/2011
3:41:13 PM
On 12/01/2011 gordoste wrote:
>On 11/01/2011 kieranl wrote:
>>The one tick that carrots get from me is their low visibility in public
>>areas such as the summit blocks on The Horn.
>>"Sometimes you can't see them from the ground even if you know where
>to
>>look. There can definitely be a sense of setting off into the great grey
>>yonder".
>>The first ascent party didn't have this problem. They knew exactly where
>>the bolts were. Why should repeat parties have to experience the horror
>>of missing a crucial bolt?
>
>It's not a problem. Everybody has an idea of where the bolts are due to
>the topo. If I miss a bolt it's because I'm an idiot and not concentrating
>enough.
>
>I am talking about SS carrots, glue-in or bash-in. Would be interested
>on whether people think glue-ins or bash-ins are better and why.
>
>Fixed hangers are acceptable also as they are invisible from a distance
>(except when the sun catches them) but shouldn't be used in highly visible
>areas (e.g. right next to walking tracks).
>
>U's and rings are visible from a long way off and IMO have no place at
>Buffalo.
>
>BTW Joe Goding did also put up a few slab routes at the Hump, I believe
>they have FHs or carrots (I haven't looked at them myself) but I guess
>he learnt from the mistake.

Another Chocky member hits the 1,000 posts milestone with this post ...
Waytogogordoste!
rightarmbad
2/02/2011
4:17:40 PM
Pffftt, that's nothing, I'm coming up 4000 on Qurank.

ajfclark
2/02/2011
4:25:06 PM
Topper.
Fish Boy
2/02/2011
5:04:19 PM
Meh, close to 8000 on a skiing forum that I haven't posted more than a dozen posts on in a few years...should keep working on that one...

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There are 93 messages in this topic.

 

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