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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Eastern Teneriffe (General) (General) [ Teneriffe Guide ] 

Author
Claudia Rising
Fish Boy
4/01/2011
6:05:33 PM
Did this the other week with paz.

What's the deal with the two cleaned streaks?

There is a direct start which I assume goes under the roof and straight up meeting with the belay. Normal start begins further left, tends right then goes? In the guide picture of the 1st ascent, it seems the climber is heading into direct start territory above the roof, to far right to go up what I assume is the normal start.

What we did was harder than 20....
Rolsen1
4/01/2011
7:58:37 PM
On 4/01/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>Did this the other week with paz.
>
>What's the deal with the two cleaned streaks?
>
>There is a direct start which I assume goes under the roof and straight
>up meeting with the belay. Normal start begins further left, tends right
>then goes? In the guide picture of the 1st ascent, it seems the climber
>is heading into direct start territory above the roof, to far right to
>go up what I assume is the normal start.

It's been a few years since we've been there but I thought the photo was of the original line and the bit we reckon is the crux, just after the first travse where you need to step up and right?

There is a clean streak that goes straight up from the middle (memory) of the traverse and goes directly to the belay. The normal line starts left goes up for 3 metres traverses right for 4 or 5 goes up where the photo is, then turns slabby to head diagonally back left. I reckon the pitch is a ripper.

We didn't take gear for the second pitch and I ended up diving for the gully when the bolts ran out and I got scared.

>
>What we did was harder than 20....

I thought 20 is about right but it's always hard to tell with slabs.
Fish Boy
4/01/2011
8:34:27 PM
Interesting. We didn't clip the bolt in the pic out right, just went straight up.

My shoes had holes in them but I still think it was a lot harder than the 19's there (which seem about right), but yeah, slabs....might of missed some holds, or they might of fallen off.

When I first tried it a few months ago it was slightly damp, and I tore many chunks off the flake at the start. It still flexes a lot, just before you clip the first bolt.

Superstu
5/01/2011
2:28:07 PM
I thought CR was 'right' for 20 but the other '19 slabs' at Teneriffe were overgraded (comparing to say, buffalo slabs).
CR wandered around a bit but its a good route, finding a path of least resistance through a tough bit of granite, and yes there is a direct version that's harder, might be 22-23, haven't been on it

rolsen1
5/01/2011
7:54:44 PM
I reckon if you went up instead of right if would be a bit/lot harder, also if some holds have gone. The start was a bit crimpy, I think.

As for grading there, i reckon finger lichen good (19) might be closer to 18 but it so consistent its probably worth 19, white heart slab (18) IMO is harder and worth 19 - but easier than claudia. The 17 to the right of white heart and the 18 to right of moon unit (name?) seem under graded to me. Other than that, the grades seem ok.
Fish Boy
5/01/2011
7:57:31 PM
Agreed, white hart is hard...

Paulie
7/01/2011
11:01:17 PM
I went right then up on CR, I remember thinking it was a bit confusing though. I think we did the 2nd or 3rd ascent at that time...that flake is hollow as, I'm suprised it's still there! I found the grades at both Teneriffe and Buffalo to be pretty much the same, with difference in rock type offering a different feel at each crag. Considering that one of the main 1st ascentionists at Teneriffe also consolidated the grades of many Buffalo testpieces, the similarity of grading between the 2 areas seems logical to me. Bear in mind that last time I climbed there, rock dust from the drilling was still making the routes slippery, so some routes have probably lost key foot/hand holds over that time which would certainly account for the disparity in grades.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/01/2011
9:41:35 PM
On 7/01/2011 Paulie wrote:
>Considering that one of the main 1st ascentionists at Teneriffe also consolidated the grades of many Buffalo testpieces, the similarity of grading between the 2 areas seems logical to me.

So when did BC* know how to grade anything less than 20?
Heh, heh, heh.

(*The bloke is a legend who climbs much harder grades!)

Paulie
9/01/2011
7:12:55 PM
true true...he wanted to grade Doughboy at Mt Pilot 23...(it's solid at 25), I told him that he needed to go climb outside Buffalo some more :-)

...to qualify that, BC literally walked up Doughgirl (hard 24 granite slab) making it look like a 15...aside from a few legends who frequent this forum, he's easily the best granite climber I've ever seen.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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