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VIC Arapiles Kitten Wall (General) Tjuringa Wall [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ]

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Tjuringa experiences

Nottobetaken

26-Aug-2005
1:05:37 PM

Would be interested to know from anyone who has attempted Tjuringa (25) *** - Tobin Sorensen's line up on Tjuringa Wall. The Carrigan '83 guide shows a pic of American Mike Graham yo-yoing the second ascent. Apart from this, I have heard that HB has done it, and possibly Steve Monks. The old railway pin (if that's what it is) is still in the bottom break - but the rest of the gear (on the first pitch) looks decidedly sparse. The runout to the roof looks to be about 6m+ - and now has a light sheen of green on it. Despite all this - it gets 3 stars in Simeys guide.
Anyone?

nmonteith

26-Aug-2005
1:38:23 PM

I always wondered if Tobin rapped down this line before he went ground up? It looks totally desperate
from the ground. Some of the slickest rock I have ever seen.

kieranl

26-Aug-2005
9:40:34 PM

I took some shots of Mark Moorehead trying it years ago. "Desperate" is about right. (also desperate was the dawn rise to get to the wall before it warmed up)

Dave C

26-Aug-2005
10:07:40 PM

Carrigan has certainly done the route and I recently met a guy over here (first name Paul, don't know his 2nd name) who did it back in the mid-90s.
The first pitch is definitely a very bold outing (English E5/6 6a) that the chap reckoned was like a giant gritstone slab minus the friction while the second pitch was less sustained but with a very hard crux at the lip. He thought it somewhat hard for the grade overall but one of the best routes he'd ever done.

duglash

26-Aug-2005
10:56:47 PM

A few people seemed to do the first pitch (don't know why not the second) in the early 90's. I know Dave
and Gordy did the first pitch but got a bit lost maybe at the top and finished left. I got the impression gear
was ok on the first pitch but a long runout to finish. Like to do it sometime, prefer to lead the second
pitch!

Dom

27-Aug-2005
12:42:57 AM

The route looks so improbable, if you do decide to do it try to take some pics. Its so rare that I get I go climbing these days, I end up living vicariously through other Chockstoners.

mikl law

28-Aug-2005
9:44:51 AM

Piitch one has a 23-24 balancy move with a long fall onto good gear 5 m below, as far as i know most people who've done it onsighted the pitch, I believe Tobin did it onsight on the first ascent. I didn't try pitch 2, I think the piton was considered a bit dodge

duglash

29-Aug-2005
11:58:22 AM

How is the gear on Bad Cheques Steve?

Nottobetaken

29-Aug-2005
12:13:54 PM

Re: Bad Cheques: Good cam placement after the crux (optional solo to there). I say 'optional' only because the only alternative is placing a wire in a 2 finger pocket - but it drops out if moved sideways - so I didn't bother with it. It's also questionable as to how much this would really save you anyway - you'd probably still hit the pedastal. The rest of the gear on the route is quite good - not too runout at all. Pretty safe really. It's just the start.

(removed)

13-Sep-2005
1:00:29 PM

Malcolm's definitely done it, he said the slab was harder than the roof. He thought the gear was pretty good from memory. I think he said something about needing to put gear into the lip after you've used the hold or something similar though

Gear on Bad Cheques is fine AFTER the crux. I strongly suggest not falling at the crux as that little pocket only holds a dubious wire and you need to use the hold first anyway. Most people lead Strangers Eliminate and then top rope Bad Cheques since the anchors are directly above it, it's the soft c--k option (and that's exactly what I did). It's "top-rope to lead" ratio is about 4000-1 (surpassed only by Dramp). Done on top-rope, Bad Cheques is a fairly unremarkable route though, I wish I hadn't done it this way.

Softc--k

mikl law

14-Sep-2005
7:18:03 AM

I remember a bomber endwise #2 hex on Bad Czechs, rocks etc probabaly not so good.

cheesehead

19-Sep-2005
10:17:43 PM

>I always wondered if Tobin rapped down this line before he went ground
>up? It looks totally desperate

Sounds like a Tobin line :O

There are 12 messages in this topic.