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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Hollow Mountain & Surrounds (General) [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Info required for new Mt Stapylton/Hollow Mt Guide

nmonteith
6/09/2005
4:06:08 PM
Can someone send me a route description for a grade 26 route that Corrine Gynther (I think) did the FFA
on Clicke Wall. There was a description in the appendium part of the recent Grampians Select Guide (the
one with Serpentine on the cover). I havn't been able to find the route description elsewhere and I only
have the older Gramps Select Guide.
kieranl
11/09/2005
5:41:56 PM
I haven't got the description but I think it is "Order through Kaos" and it goes up between Giblets and Close to The Bone with a few bolts.

nmonteith
20/09/2005
2:59:30 PM
I need good climbing action photos for the Hollow Mtn guide. There is no money involved - just the
fame of seeing your photo online. Photo credits will be given. Crags I don't have photos for are...

Gun Buttress
Crank Start Amphitheatre
Orange Blossum Wall
Red Wall
Hollow Mtn Cave
Andersens
Tupameros
White Wall
Koalsquatsy Wall

Photos can be low quality digi stills as this is only an online gudiebook. Send images to neil at
mrppp.com.au

Thanks!

adski
5/12/2005
10:38:11 PM
Nice topo Neil - I may be heading back to taipan for a few weeks (!) around christmas/new years and might have to give your new route a quick look. Some ideas re: the guide - Is it possible / are you already indicating whether abseils require single or double rope on the topo? I see in the topo on your smugmug site that the abseil point has an arrow with a white circle and black inside - perhaps this black centre could be half white to indicate it only requires one rope? Please forgive my ignorance if you're already doing this.

Another thing I think is interesting is hollow stars. These are the stars a first ascentionist gives out, usually to their own routes (!). With subsequent ascents, the quality of the route is confirmed or denied and the stars becomes solid.

cantcrimp
6/12/2005
6:59:11 AM

>Anyone know a name/grade/FFA details for the ringbolted arete just left
>of Crossfire on Epsilon Wall. It
>was bolted by a mystery 'Simon' in about 2003.

Is that the arete with 2 rings to a 2 ring lower off? If it is it was bolted by Julian, climbed by someone else and named by Simon, canne remember the name, grade 23, but get in touch with Julian to find out the full story.
kieranl
5/03/2006
9:52:01 PM
A new rappel anchor has been added for the Trident area.
The scramble across to the tree isn't too bad but it is treacherous in the wet and inexperienced climbers (and lots of them do Trident) can easily pick a less than optimal route. This has resulted in at least one serious accident and some hairy antics - I saw one rather exciting jump being done on it this weekend.
The new anchor is a Fixe camo-chain on glue-in full-thread carrots and it is about 10m left (facing the cliff) of the top of Trident. It still needs two ropes - (a 70m rope doubled might just reach the ground but I didn't have one to check - a 60m doubled will be too short - if you're going to try with a single 70 make be careful as the final 10m of abseil is free).
The chain remains on the tree for the climbs around Germinal.
pecheur
4/03/2013
1:42:08 PM
On 5/03/2006 kieranl wrote:
>A new rappel anchor has been added for the Trident area.
>The scramble across to the tree isn't too bad but it is treacherous in
>the wet and inexperienced climbers (and lots of them do Trident) can easily
>pick a less than optimal route. This has resulted in at least one serious
>accident and some hairy antics - I saw one rather exciting jump being done
>on it this weekend.
>The new anchor is a Fixe camo-chain on glue-in full-thread carrots and
>it is about 10m left (facing the cliff) of the top of Trident. It still
>needs two ropes - (a 70m rope doubled might just reach the ground but I
>didn't have one to check - a 60m doubled will be too short - if you're
>going to try with a single 70 make be careful as the final 10m of abseil
>is free).
>The chain remains on the tree for the climbs around Germinal.

Oh it's LEFT of the climb. Ben mentioned that he'd read about it and couldn't find it. I didn't even know to look for it and certainly didn't see it when I climbed it just before him.

Could someone who has access to "thecrag" and climb.org.au, please add "left" to the description, "an anchor near 'Trident'" is a pretty poor description when someone as fastidious as Ben didn't find it. I think most people would also search between the climb and the tree.

Also please remove the extra 'd' from "removedd" (sic).
kieranl
4/03/2013
2:24:14 PM
On 4/03/2013 pecheur wrote:

>Oh it's LEFT of the climb. Ben mentioned that he'd read about it and
>couldn't find it. I didn't even know to look for it and certainly didn't
>see it when I climbed it just before him.
>
>Could someone who has access to "thecrag" and climb.org.au, please add
>"left" to the description, "an anchor near 'Trident'" is a pretty poor
>description when someone as fastidious as Ben didn't find it. I think
>most people would also search between the climb and the tree.
>
>Also please remove the extra 'd' from "removedd" (sic).

Done that. Though I'm surprised that people couldn't work out where the rap is from the topo showing it on the ACA site. The info was originally entered on the ACA site in conjunction with the topo so the exact wording probably wasn't significant. But later the text was imported into The Crag but the topo wasn't.

* edit * The info stating that the anchor was 10m left of the top of Trident was also contained in the New Routes and Beta section of May 2006 Argus
armstp
4/03/2013
3:05:33 PM
A lot of people donít seem to use or know about the guide book section of the ACA site. Which is a pity as it is often more comprehensive than anything on The Crag, or any published guides, and frequently has good photo topos and maps as well.

I have bumped into a number of people with relatively unhelpful printouts from the crag when the ACA info for the same cliff would have been much more useful for them. Some of the material imported from the ACA site into the crag tends to finish off in a jumbled order, and the topos and diagrams disappear.
pecheur
4/03/2013
3:21:04 PM
On 4/03/2013 kieranl wrote:
>
>Done that. Though I'm surprised that people couldn't work out where the
>rap is from the topo showing it on the ACA site. The info was originally
>entered on the ACA site in conjunction with the topo so the exact wording
>probably wasn't significant. But later the text was imported into The Crag
>but the topo wasn't.
>
>* edit * The info stating that the anchor was 10m left of the top of Trident
>was also contained in the New Routes and Beta section of May 2006 Argus

Thanks for that Kieran, I didn't mean to be critical. I had a quick look on thecrag, I agree that climb.org is often much better in terms of information and topos in general, I should get back into the habit of checking that.

ajfclark
4/03/2013
5:19:52 PM
From memory, the hangers are also painted and blend in quite well.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 31
There are 31 messages in this topic.

 

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