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Crag & Route Beta

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Beta on Passport to Insanity?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

9-Sep-2003
12:22:35 PM

Sounds to me (from kieranl description), that 'The Fortress' is a very appropriate name.


The Blond Gecko

9-Sep-2003
2:50:44 PM

I have to say I'm with Kieran on this one. From what I've heard, the Fortress often ends up festooned with fixed ropes, slings and other bits of tat, all of which are going to be an eyesore from the ground. By comparison, a couple of Neil's camo ringbolts aren't likely to be visible from any more than a couple of metres away. My 2 cents is that bolts are much less of an eyesore than other fixed gear. Oh, and IMHO anyone who pulls a bolt placed with the blessing of the first ascentionist(s) is as much guilty of vandalism as anyone who retrobolts without the first ascentionist's permission.

Cheers,
Tristan

P.S. No matter what happens, I'm planning to use the tyrolean. Sounds like much more fun than abseiling!

Mike Bee

11-Jan-2010
10:52:25 PM

This is a bit of resurrection from the dead I know, but whats the latest descent beta from Passport?

Did it ever get bolted, or is it still a choice between a tyrolean or an abseil from a bollard and then a manky peg?

Also, what size BD cams go best in the roof? I'm planning to make and attempt to aid this by the end of daylight saving, so I'm starting to get some info together and figure out what gear I'll need to buy, borrow or scrounge.

kieranl

12-Jan-2010
9:21:56 AM

I don't believe that any (bolted) abseil anchors have been added.
However there is this alternative descent discovered by the late Shaggy and described in this post http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=1&MessageID=10025&Replies=1
Take note of goshens comments on his use of this descent.
The only negative about this descent is that it's leaving more tatty slings about the place.

Mike Bee

14-Jan-2010
7:12:04 PM

Thanks for the heads up on that kieran, I'll add that to my planning for the descent.

Anyone know what size Camalots the roof crack takes? Is it evenly sized the whole way (ie do I need a bunch of multiples of the same size) or does it taper (meaning a more standard trad rack will suffice)?

Wendy

14-Jan-2010
7:21:56 PM

It's green to start then red pretty much the whole way.

There are 46 messages in this topic.