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A question of etiquette


Eduardo Slabofvic

7-Mar-2011
2:38:10 PM

Someone (maybe even you) has their rope on a route. They are clearly climbing that route, as in they actually engaged in climbing upwards.

It is a single pitch route. There are many other routes near by with no one on them.

Do you start climbing up after them before they are finished?


ajfclark

7-Mar-2011
2:42:32 PM

Are you seconding or leading?


Eduardo Slabofvic

7-Mar-2011
2:43:49 PM

I was actually shunting, but I might have wanted to do a couple of more laps after going to the bother of setting up the situation.


nmonteith

7-Mar-2011
2:50:22 PM

On 7/03/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>I was actually shunting, but I might have wanted to do a couple of more
>laps after going to the bother of setting up the situation.

I'm not a fan of people 'lapping' climbs if its a popular area with other climbers about. If the climb was the classic of the area then letting others have a go would be nice. On the other hand if the other party had just asked you before starting up that would be nicer!


Eduardo Slabofvic

7-Mar-2011
3:06:37 PM

I was the only one there to begin with, which was why I selceted the route in the first place, and I only did 2 laps to warm up.

What if your dogging a route and I feel like climbing it. Do I just start on up ignoring you? No difference between dogging and laping.

earwig

7-Mar-2011
3:12:51 PM

The best bit of gear in this situation is the vocal cord, though it seems not everyone is aware of how to use it correctly.

Failing that, I reckon that before party number 2 starts heading up party 1's top-roping/shunting gear should be packed away (or party 2 given an invite to use it). For a multi-pitch climb, party 1's seconder has to be on their way or close to it.


sliamese

7-Mar-2011
3:13:19 PM

Well if u keep cutting laps after i politely ask if i can go next, then you are displaying very bad ettiquette. If it is the popular route you can share it surely!! Even just hold your TR solo line off to side while person leads, second cleans and leaves you to your business.

Just cos someone arrived first doesnt mean you can stay on it all day. You can but you'll be rightly called a dick. If you cant wait 5 minutes for someone to finish their shot/dog on a route, regardless of TR solo or not, you'll be rightly called a dick.

Seems like a no-brainer, dont be a dick....

Edit: even easier option, introduce yourself, get a belay on said route( maybe even put their draws on because thats a non-dick thing to do) and everyones happy????

Can u honestly not see a difference between your 1368th lap on a route and someone dogging before a redpoint?

ZERO

7-Mar-2011
3:35:22 PM

Bad form to start without asking.
even worse is "reserving" routes by leaving a TR in situ while you are on something else.
A bit of courtesy is warranted. Otherwise Eduardo, carry a few loose stones in your chalkbag.


ajfclark

7-Mar-2011
3:38:01 PM

Just had an image of this exchange:

"Hey buddy!"

"What?" *clunk*

"Rock"


Sabu

7-Mar-2011
3:40:17 PM

Agreed, poor form to start without asking. Same goes for multipitches, I often check its ok to come up if people are on the first belay or so.

bones

7-Mar-2011
3:44:53 PM

On 7/03/2011 Sabu wrote:
>Agreed, poor form to start without asking. Same goes for multipitches,
>I often check its ok to come up if people are on the first belay or so.

We're lucky that crags are quiet enough to allow for this kind of ettiquette. A typical multipitch outing in europe involves being overtaken on the crux by teams of speed climbing germans with runners in every 20 meters while dodging falling rocks from belay ledges choked full of military training groups


Eduardo Slabofvic

7-Mar-2011
3:48:07 PM

... or delivering a case of the awsome, the insidious, flying butt pliers.


hangdog

7-Mar-2011
3:55:19 PM

On 7/03/2011 bones wrote:
>We're lucky that crags are quiet enough to allow for this kind of ettiquette.
>A typical multipitch outing in europe involves being overtaken on the crux
>by teams of speed climbing germans with runners in every 20 meters while
>dodging falling rocks from belay ledges choked full of military training
>groups
Is that so different from a day out on Sweet Dreams at Sublime Point. Substitute the germans for others and military training groups for guiding companies.


nmonteith

7-Mar-2011
4:14:32 PM

On 7/03/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>What if your dogging a route and I feel like climbing it. Do I just start
>on up ignoring you? No difference between dogging and laping.

You get one lap dogging or top-roping then let others have a go. One of small joys of climbing at busy crags is getting the chance of doing a route on someone elses quickdraws!


vwills

7-Mar-2011
4:15:59 PM

No problems with crowds at Boganville (Blueys) on the weekend. Had it all to ourselves. May have been hard to set up a top rope though!

Rude not to communicate with you.


nmonteith

7-Mar-2011
4:39:36 PM

On 7/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>But did you pay to use the bolts??

We paid in flesh. And sandbags.

rolsen1

7-Mar-2011
4:44:08 PM

On 7/03/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>Someone (maybe even you) has their rope on a route. They are clearly climbing
>that route, as in they actually engaged in climbing upwards.
>
>It is a single pitch route. There are many other routes near by with
>no one on them.
>
>Do you start climbing up after them before they are finished?

Its only happened to me at the gym, but has happened a couple of times. I start being semi-polite and pointing out appropriate etiquette but things usually go quickly downhill and I'm forced to use less subtle language. At least I won't die from stress, however, my climbing partners think I have anger issues.

Actually, now I think of it, about 15 years ago I lead trapeze and was setting up belay (couldn't see the chains 1 metre away) after pointing to the chains, Simey proceeded to down climb the route, rope in place before the second had started.

I was just so glad to be able to witness Simey firsthand and his great soloing feat.


nmonteith

7-Mar-2011
4:59:04 PM

People soloing or simul-climbing over the top of someone elses lead rope is total death! It suddenly make the person leading responsible for the soloist. Now that's bad etiquette!


The Good Dr

7-Mar-2011
5:06:12 PM

Ed, doing laps on Exodus. Nice to see you upping the ante.

JDB

8-Mar-2011
8:49:33 AM

On 7/03/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>I was the only one there to begin with, which was why I selceted the route
>in the first place, and I only did 2 laps to warm up.

Mr Slab,
I'm really surprised you were the only one there !!
Once you had warmed up and whipped off the T-shirt 'a la Beau Geste'(selected guide photo) I thought the fans would come flocking

There are 23 messages in this topic.