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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 16. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 307
Author
Trashing Tassie ... it's beyond salvation

sliamese
21/02/2011
9:53:11 AM
>While it's easy to knock routes and to sound ungrateful, despite the sheer
>amount of time and money spent developing crags, it's worth pointing out
>that every time a route is put up you're staking your claim on climbing
>history. With that being the case it's worth ensuring that they're quality
>routes.

Yeh it easy to bag out badly positioned/poor quality bolts. But its easier to just ask for stainless steel or spend an extra hour hanging about on your new climb to ensure its quality! Like u say, u are influencing everybody else experience with that piece of rock forever, do a good job.

Yeh yeh im a hypocrite, ive made mistakes too. But i think ive learnt from them...
jesus
21/02/2011
9:58:10 AM
On 21/02/2011 Winston Smith wrote:
>I comprehend most of what Jesus is banging on about: having climbed in
>Tassie regularly over the past few years I also find the whole "no bolts
>at Ben Lomond but bolt the f*** out of everywhere else" quizzical to say
>the least.
>

>
>By the way, it is nonsense to have included rap stations in the most popular
>guidebook to the Ben - Climb Tasmania - and then chop/oversee the chopping
>of said rap statons, thus immediately making the guidebook outdated. It
>seems fairly self-defeating. (I know that the main Ben Lomond guide is
>up to date but I believe that most visitors use the older omnibus Climb
>Tasmania guide).
>
>Having visited most of the Northern, East Coast and North-West crags I
>must say that the number of mediocre, badly bolted routes is staggering.
>Bolting practices have been developed over years here on 'the mainland"
>but it appears that Tassie sport route developers have decided to reinvent
>the wheel.
>
>As a result I climbed routes at Hillwood where the crux was unprotected
>on several "moderate sport routes" and required additional gear to prevent
>a groundfall as well as routes where removable hangers had been epoxyed
>to carrots - in lieu of fixed hangers - only to have fallen off or have
>been souvenired.
>

>
>Blackwood Rocks was an interesting afternoon's diversion on soft sandstone
>where worn and breaking holds will ensure that some routes get harder with
>the passing of time.

Yeah .... and hopefully we won't see a repeat of wot happened at Fruhauf at Hobart when a few holds broke ............... a certain big(g) ego-ed person decided to ' restore ' the holds with a chisel ... this then ' inspired ' him to gouge huge jugs up the middle of the semi-blank main face , to establish what the locals now regard as ' classics ' ...
>While it's easy to knock routes and to sound ungrateful, despite the sheer
>amount of time and money spent developing crags, it's worth pointing out
>that every time a route is put up you're staking your claim on climbing
>history. With that being the case it's worth ensuring that they're quality
>routes.
>

AMEN !!!

: )
Cam McKenzie
21/02/2011
10:18:27 AM
It's Freuhauf. If there was every a cliff that was meant to be chipped and grid bolted, this is it. That said, I love the place personally.
jesus
21/02/2011
11:05:14 AM

>>>If there was every a cliff that was meant to be chipped and grid bolted, this is it...

...faaaark.... the new bunch of gym-clones / Frauhof-clippers , probably think the same thing about Fingal ...


Simeese ... the new mob see ur ' mistakes ' and take them as ' gospel ' ... cos they don't realise they are ' mistakes ' ... and so the pox spreads ...

... if ur fair dinkum about ... ahem ... resurrecting... the CCT ... (bolt) Clippers Club (of) Tasmania , then fix ur mistakes and then social-network that rectification ...cos the new crew will be looking to u 4 guidance and leadership ...



jesus
11/03/2011
12:34:11 PM
>>>>Maybe when the CCT gets going we can team up with a lawn bowls team, to provide people >>>with something other than climbing to help them realise, ITS JUST CLIMBiNG!! Maybe then >>>the ego can be dropped...

>>>Say what u will about me, my mum thinks im cool...


..................................................................
jesus
11/03/2011
12:44:26 PM
>>>Having visited most of the Northern, East Coast and North-West crags I must say that the >>>number of mediocre, badly bolted routes is staggering. Bolting practices have been >>>developed over years here on 'the mainland" but it appears that Tassie sport route >>>developers have decided to reinvent the wheel.


" COPY NEIL ????? !!!! "

Neil ... if the CCT do a few chock / choock raffles to cover ur flights / accommodation / beer etc ... would u be willing to go to Lonny , to conduct a re-bolting clinic / workshop etc ... so the northern boys can start cleaning up the pox .... Ive been talking with DAD and s/he says there should be a moritorium on bolting in Tasmania until the crags have been treated and healed ...


Apparently it all started a few years ago when Fisher or someone bolted the lovely sea-side cliffs at Sisters Beach , using mild steel bolts ... just shows the short term smash n grab mentality that still prevails in northern Tassie ... DADs not impressed ... Easter eggs might be withheld until the plague of selfishness has passed ...


jesus
11/03/2011
12:50:55 PM
Some VERY unchristian nonsense going on here ...

http://www.thesarvo.com/confluence/pages/viewpage.action?pageId=197820430&focusedCommentId=198836264#comment-198836264

Maybe Bob McMahons @#$% ANGST &^%$# is rubbing off on Gerry ...

http://au.finance.yahoo.com/news/Pulp-mill-doom-Tasmania-abc-972224571.html?x=0

It would be nice if Bob cared as much about the cliffs , these days , as he does about stopping an assumed increase in atmospheric contaminants in the Tamar Valley ...


jesus
11/03/2011
1:02:15 PM


" NNEEEEEEEEEEIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIILLLLLLLLLLLLLLLL !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! "

crazyjohn
12/03/2011
1:49:46 AM
Nice work sh:t stirring. However, that is almost all it is. entertaining but empty. speaking of empty and entertaining, you may like this i posted on thesarvo. soooo good I had to post twice!


Hey Gerry! Your an international celebrity! Anna is following this "debate" about who is the biggest c0ckhead in the land, from bible school in Germany. Here is her take:

From Anna:

I read the rants of Gerry. Pretty bad! If you want to make him upset you could quote Galatians 5,22: “But the fruit of the Spirit is love, joy, peace, patience, kindness, goodness, faithfulness, gentleness and self-control.”

BTW, You should be happy that Ingvar's route at the Ben is the hardest trad route at the moment... That is, till one of the Hobart boys downgrades it! See ya up there!




Also, I think Gerry called you out...Phil is it? you seem to just be taking the piss. this is funny, but are you actually making any points and trying to influence climbing? it may be wanky but these days, these online forums actually do influence climbing. think of it as instant magazine articles. You dont have to make all these subreferences to old school climbing to establish cred for your arguments because, frankly I cant tell WHAT YOUR ARGUMENTS ARE! :) so youve been around the block. big deal. tell us something solid man!
jesus
12/03/2011
12:22:52 PM
Greetings , my son ... DAD thinks ur just a very naughty boy , CJ ... but I think ur OK ... u can use those Arapiles hammers to bash my nails , any day ...


>>>BTW, You should be happy that Ingvar's route at the Ben is the hardest trad route >>>at the moment... That is, till one of the Hobart boys downgrades it! See ya up there!

Jonny.... not clear ... is this bit from Anna or u ? .... ...what is clear is the ongoing & infantile : us / them ; Examiner / Mercury ; Boags / Cascade ; north / south ; etc / woteva ...


Hopefully Simeese can organise the CCT so its not just the Southern CCT ...

Ura good bloke , jonny .... but .... in denial .... have a good read of Winstons ' lies ' ...

; )

Crazy jesus




jesus
12/03/2011
12:57:33 PM
>>>frankly I cant tell WHAT YOUR ARGUMENTS ARE! :)

Why doesnt that surprize me ...

For someone who uses mild steel where the coastal beeze is blowing corrosive salt all over them .... ur just pissin in the wind , buddy ...

+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++









OI !!! .....Neil .......... seriously .......... cmon ................
crazyjohn
12/03/2011
5:06:31 PM
On 12/03/2011 jesus wrote:

>Jonny.... not clear ... is this bit from Anna or u ? .... ...what is clear
>is the ongoing & infantile : us / them ; Examiner / Mercury ; Boags /
>Cascade ; north / south ; etc / woteva ...

Which is ongoing? Which is infantile?
Friendly competition/Needless shitstirring
stream of conscious babble/meaningful illustrative criticism
vague personal references/straightforward discussion (with, of course, some shit talking!)

and remember to always check your rope before you jump. ;)

>Hopefully Simeese can organise the CCT so its not just the Southern CCT

Im not all that psyched. good thing he is.

>Crazy jesus
you wish!

>
>
>

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12/03/2011
7:10:10 PM
On 12/03/2011 jesus wrote:
> OI !!! .....Neil .......... seriously .......... cmon ................

It is a long weekend in Vic. Hex, or have you forgotten omnipotent one?
Oh, that's right (sorry I forgot), NM has become nswelshman now!...
;-)

nmonteith
12/03/2011
8:17:36 PM
I am utterly confused.

shortman
Online Now
12/03/2011
8:24:23 PM
On 12/03/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>I am utterly confused.

Welcome to my world!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
12/03/2011
8:29:34 PM
>confused.

I expect that Jesus will reveal all at the 2nd coming...
In fact I am surprised that he hasn't got out there and fixed the perceived Tassie bolting mistakes by others already? ~> Is probably waiting till the Tote falls first to save on miraclefixittrips??
jesus
12/03/2011
8:50:54 PM
If ya gunna come into da church , then dont throw rocks at the stained glass windows !!! RESPECT !!!!!!!!!!!



Winston has summed up the reality on the ground ... it needs fixing ... Neil is da man to facilitate ...



The ' no bolts at Ben / trash every other crag ' is the other theme here ...

Here is the political state of play in the U . S . & A . :

'...Fixed anchors in wilderness areas have been a hot issue since the early 1990s, when the first bolting bans were issued ... After several years of debate in which it appeared that bolts might be banned in many or all federal wilderness areas, a session of “negotiated rule making” took place in the late ’90s among the Access Fund, AAC, wilderness advocates, and the National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service, and Bureau of Land Manangement.

Two main principles were agreed: There would be no use of power drills in wilderness areas (carried over from the 1964 Wilderness Act, which prohibits the use of motorized devices), but climbers might be able to hand-drill with prior authorization.

However, until recently, the federal agencies had not created policies to implement these ideas. “Around 2000, agencies agreed to go forward with these principles, but they never got it done,” says Jason Keith, Policy Director of the Access Fund. That is, until 2007, when the BLM issued an instruction memorandum regarding the use of fixed anchors. This policy recognized climbing as an appropriate use of wilderness; said that climbers might need prior authorization from land managers; and allowed “placing a few permanent fixed anchors to improve climbers’ safety on sections of routes where the use of removable hardware is not feasible.” ...'




Right ... thats the jist of what I see as the future of ' development ' at Ben Lommond , when I referred to QUALITY semi-bolted adventure routes ...









crazyjohn
13/03/2011
10:25:51 AM
Who cares what the us park service says? Is this too hard to figure out?
There
Will
Be
No
Bolts
In
Ben
Lomond
.
Your saying that since you dont like the bolting at other places in Tas, I guess Fingal, you should bolt at the Ben? You are an idiot. If you bolt in Ben they will get chopped simple as that.
jesus
13/03/2011
11:29:47 AM
YOOOOOORRRRRRRRRR CRAAAAAAAAAZY JAAAAAAAAARRRRRN !!!!!

CJ seethed :

>>>Who cares what the us park service says?

They are only one of the stake-holders , eh...

>>>There
>>>Will
>>>Be
>>>No
>>>Bolts
>>>In
>>>Ben
>>>Lomond

There will never be a pulp mill in the Tamar Valley ...

>>>Your saying that since you dont like the bolting at other places in Tas, I guess >>>Fingal, you should bolt at the Ben?

Dude ... uv got the logic of a 3 y. o. ...

>>>You are an idiot.

Yeah well thats what most extreme muslims think :P

>>>If you bolt in Ben they will get chopped simple as that.

and then on thesarvo

>>>I believe the vast majority of climbers in Tassie agree that bolts do not belong on >>>routes in Ben Lommond, but there needs to be bolted abseils.

Make up ur mind Jonny ...

>>>I believe the vast majority of climbers in Tassie agree that bolts do not belong on >>>routes in Ben Lommond...

Only because Gerry has brain washed everyone for so long ...


>>>f you bolt in Ben they will get chopped simple as that.

OK GERRY ...


jesus
13/03/2011
11:50:59 AM
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
If ya gunna come into da church , then dont throw rocks at the stained glass windows !!! RESPECT !!!!!!!!!!!



Winston has summed up the reality on the ground ... it needs fixing ... Neil is da man to facilitate ...



The ' no bolts at Ben / trash every other crag ' is the other theme here ...

Here is the political state of play in the U . S . & A . :

'...Fixed anchors in wilderness areas have been a hot issue since the early 1990s, when the first bolting bans were issued ... After several years of debate in which it appeared that bolts might be banned in many or all federal wilderness areas, a session of “negotiated rule making” took place in the late ’90s among the Access Fund, AAC, wilderness advocates, and the National Park Service, U.S. Forest Service, and Bureau of Land Manangement.

Two main principles were agreed: There would be no use of power drills in wilderness areas (carried over from the 1964 Wilderness Act, which prohibits the use of motorized devices), but climbers might be able to hand-drill with prior authorization.

However, until recently, the federal agencies had not created policies to implement these ideas. “Around 2000, agencies agreed to go forward with these principles, but they never got it done,” says Jason Keith, Policy Director of the Access Fund. That is, until 2007, when the BLM issued an instruction memorandum regarding the use of fixed anchors. This policy recognized climbing as an appropriate use of wilderness; said that climbers might need prior authorization from land managers; and allowed “placing a few permanent fixed anchors to improve climbers’ safety on sections of routes where the use of removable hardware is not feasible.” ...'




Right ... thats the jist of what I see as the future of ' development ' at Ben Lommond , when I referred to QUALITY semi-bolted adventure routes ...

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There are 307 messages in this topic.

 

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