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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 6 of 16. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120 | 121 to 140 | 141 to 160 | 161 to 180 | 181 to 200 | 201 to 220 | 221 to 240 | 241 to 260 | 261 to 280 | 281 to 300 | 301 to 307
Author
Trashing Tassie ... it's beyond salvation
jesus
16/03/2011
11:10:34 AM
The best approach to ' no bolts @ Ben ' will be NOW to focus on Frews Flutes ...Gerry and others are concerned that Sky Rocket style desecration will occur on the aretes , 1-2 meters from the trad classics ... FAIR ENUF ... my route on the western flank is a PURE QUALITY semi-bolted adventure route that ENHANCES that part of Ben ...


Anyway ... the ' world class ' perception of Frews Flutes is non sense ... The top 20 feet or so is FLAKEY CHOSSY HORRIBLE CRAP !!!! ... you climb 80 % of some routes thinking this is pretty good , then ya have to negociate the pus to reach the top ...
aoraki
16/03/2011
12:11:58 PM
Heres a totally unclimbed 100-200m cliff to try the theory out on:
http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=-41.569337,147.627518&spn=0.013517,0.033023&t=h&z=16
simey
16/03/2011
12:25:29 PM
On 16/03/2011 jesus wrote:
>The best approach to ' no bolts @ Ben ' will be NOW to focus on Frews
>Flutes ...Gerry and others are concerned that Sky Rocket style desecration
>will occur on the aretes , 1-2 meters from the trad classics ... FAIR ENUF
>... my route on the western flank is a PURE QUALITY semi-bolted adventure
>route that ENHANCES that part of Ben ...
>
>
>Anyway ... the ' world class ' perception of Frews Flutes is non sense
>... The top 20 feet or so is FLAKEY CHOSSY HORRIBLE CRAP !!!! ... you
>climb 80 % of some routes thinking this is pretty good , then ya have to
>negociate the pus to reach the top ...

I agree with everything you are saying - it would be a shame to see bolted routes one to two metres from skyrocketing cracklines. I just think that you are opening a can of worms by allowing certain routes to be bolt protected and not others.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
16/03/2011
8:58:11 PM
simey wrote;
>the murky dilemma of trying to differentiate the validity of bolts depending on how the routes were established would be futile (for example Pole Dancer at Cape Raoul is a sport route that was bolted on lead using a power drill).

and hex wrote:
>When will ppl realise Pole Dancer is not a ' sport climb " ??? .... when ya gottat drive then bushwalk then scramble/climb ... for hours ...to get to the base of a route which is stuck out in the Southern Ocean ....... IT AINT A FKN SPORT ROUTE !!!! .... its a bolt protected adventure route .. just in this case ALL the runners are bolts

I agree with simey.

Regarding sport routes, I also reckon the majority of climbers would agree that a bolt protected route is a sport route, regardless of access in/convenience.

Oy Hex, by your logic an all-bolt route on Frenchmans Cap, or Balls Pyramid, is still purely an adventure route?

PS Have you managed to get up the Tote yet?

nmonteith
16/03/2011
10:14:37 PM
You have to do several full trad pitches to get to Pole Dancer - so really its an adventure day with a sport last pitch.
One Day Hero
16/03/2011
10:21:10 PM
On 16/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>Touched a nerve eh?
>
No, just thought I'd point out the reality of what'll happen. You're a gunner, dave.
One Day Hero
16/03/2011
10:25:18 PM
Btw, I reckon Cartman is the coolest character that has showed up on seppo TV since Seinfeld ended.

Butters81
17/03/2011
8:22:11 AM
On 16/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>Btw, I reckon Cartman is the coolest character that has showed up on seppo
>TV since Seinfeld ended.
Nup.
Randy from South Park
way better than Cartman

Climboholic
17/03/2011
8:54:39 AM
On 16/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>Btw, I reckon Cartman is the coolest character that has showed up on seppo
>TV since Seinfeld ended.

Who was cool on Seinfeld??? That show was MASSIVELY overrated!

And I support Butters on the Randy Marsh call.
simey
17/03/2011
9:01:18 AM
On 17/03/2011 Climboholic wrote:
>Who was cool on Seinfeld??? That show was MASSIVELY overrated!

How can you say overrated? I learnt everything that I know about relationships through Seinfeld.
One Day Hero
17/03/2011
9:06:43 AM
On 17/03/2011 Climboholic wrote:
>
>Who was cool on Seinfeld??? That show was MASSIVELY overrated!
>
Spose its probably dated quite badly, I wouldn't try to watch 'em again now. It was pretty revolutionary to have a sitcom where all the characters were selfish arseholes. I liked George, by the end they had him pretty well formed into a total prick......but ya were still on his side. That's harder to do than you'd think.
Tastrad
17/03/2011
9:07:59 AM
you put 2 bolts on a 7m runout grade 24? Weak as piss. Grow some balls and run it out. There are routes up there we did in the 80's just as hard where the leader has sucked it up and gone for it onsight, and sometimes taken the plunge. other routes like Kilamanjaro 25 at Africa are more difficult and the long crux section is protected by a 2rp and the smallest c3 cam. Write up the route on thesarvo if you want to own up to your pathetic efforts. If you can't handle the challenge of new routing on the Ben and have to lower the rock to your standard, then piss off and leave the drill at home.
widewetandslippery
17/03/2011
9:33:56 AM
I'd rather read a mad tassie rant any day rather than watch Seinfeld.

But then again I suppose I'm talking about comparing a nasaly New York Jew wanker to an inbred Tassie Christian wanker.
simey
17/03/2011
9:46:56 AM
I would rather watch George work out the secret to hooking up with beautiful women than read mad Tassy rants.
crazyjohn
17/03/2011
9:49:30 AM
On 16/03/2011 jesus wrote:
>The best approach to ' no bolts @ Ben ' will be NOW to focus on Frews
>Flutes ...Gerry and others are concerned that Sky Rocket style desecration
>will occur on the aretes , 1-2 meters from the trad classics ... FAIR ENUF
>... my route on the western flank is a PURE QUALITY semi-bolted adventure
>route that ENHANCES that part of Ben ...
>
>
>Anyway ... the ' world class ' perception of Frews Flutes is non sense
>... The top 20 feet or so is FLAKEY CHOSSY HORRIBLE CRAP !!!! ... you
>climb 80 % of some routes thinking this is pretty good , then ya have to
>negociate the pus to reach the top ...

You never did this route. I get the distinct impression that you are 100% full of shit. Ill just reply to your "hypothetical" route. Ground up is good. The local ethic is no bolts. If you want to shit on that by bolting, your a dick. Go to the czech, use chalk and cams while your at it. Or go chop the bolts off serpentine because you think it should be a trad route. Point is, your just being contrary to stir people up. You are a liar and I dont believe a god damn thing you say.
One Day Hero
17/03/2011
10:10:00 AM
I also quite liked how they would start with a bunch of unrelated and wierd premises, then find a really clever way to tie them all together by the end of the show. The muffin-top-shop episode was inspired.

Gavo
17/03/2011
10:11:04 AM
But isnt Jesus supposed to speak only the truth? No..thats a magic 8-ball.. hmm
simey
17/03/2011
10:29:27 AM
On 17/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>I also quite liked how they would start with a bunch of unrelated and wierd
>premises, then find a really clever way to tie them all together by the
>end of the show.

Such as George meeting an attractive girl and bullshitting that he is a marine biologist, and Kramer taking up golf and practising down on the coast. Then one day when George and his new girl are walking along a beach they come across a crowd surrounding a beached whale. Someone yells out, "Is anyone here a marine biologist?" which of course blows George's cover. Turns out the beached whale had a golf ball lodged in its spout... thanks to Kramer's golf practice!
bones
17/03/2011
10:47:13 AM
On 17/03/2011 simey wrote:
>On 17/03/2011 One Day Hero wrote:
>>I also quite liked how they would start with a bunch of unrelated and
>wierd
>>premises, then find a really clever way to tie them all together by the
>>end of the show.
>
>Such as George meeting an attractive girl and bullshitting that he is
>a marine biologist, and Kramer taking up golf and practising down on the
>coast. Then one day when George and his new girl are walking along a beach
>they come across a crowd surrounding a beached whale. Someone yells out,
>"Is anyone here a marine biologist?" which of course blows George's cover.
>Turns out the beached whale had a golf ball lodged in its spout... thanks
>to Kramer's golf practice!

"The sea was angry that day my friends....."

ajfclark
17/03/2011
11:06:05 AM
On 17/03/2011 davidn wrote:
>Yeah but South Park does it better and Robot Chicken better fits my attention span. Hey, maybe there's a link between limited attention span and bouldering...

Then you chuck individual pieces on the internet and it's even shorter and need less attention... Here's one of my favourites: http://www.break.com/usercontent/2006/8/3/morning-wood-136725

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There are 307 messages in this topic.

 

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