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Chockstone Forum - General Discussion

General Climbing Discussion

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 48
Author
Rockclimbs Around Melbourne guidebook
dalai
17/01/2011
11:43:11 PM
On 17/01/2011 gfdonc wrote:
>And did the strategy work, or what?

Simey hasn't been here anywhere as frequently or been upset with M9.

I'd say it has been working; Simey is busy and not grumpy for a change... ;-)

Pat
18/01/2011
8:51:52 AM
Where abouts is Blue Haze in relation to both the Jawbones and how many climbs does it have?
Dave C
18/01/2011
3:32:16 PM
On 17/01/2011 simey wrote:
Although
>...I soon realised that women would take a lot more interest in a guy that owns a funky little cafe near one of the best crags in the world, as opposed to a guidebook author trying to sex up scrappy little outcrops around Melbourne.


Did you consider how many eligible women there probably are in Nati and how many there are in and around Melbourne!?

Pat
19/01/2011
7:00:54 PM
On 18/01/2011 Pat wrote:
>Where abouts is Blue Haze in relation to both the Jawbones and how many
>climbs does it have?

Bump this question.
dalai
19/01/2011
7:01:47 PM
Buy the guide? ;-)

Pat
19/01/2011
7:05:43 PM
Yeah its the obvious answer and I'm keen to support local publishers, but I have a lot of the other areas in the guide covered and wanted to know how much was in the new area.
Fish Boy
19/01/2011
8:48:03 PM
Any other new routes, or just Blue Haze Peak?

nmonteith
19/01/2011
10:21:14 PM
The photo topos are worth the money alone.

cruze
20/01/2011
8:51:46 AM
I borrowed a look from a climber at the crag on Sunday. The format is much more usable than the VCC guides to eastern/northwestern/southwestern but I question the durability of the spiral binding at the crag. I guess it might be a trade off for the value for money it represents to the weekend warrior at $30 or thereabouts.
bones
20/01/2011
8:56:34 AM
bought it and like it. Should reinspire me to squeeze in some more daytrips.
I'm pretty sure the blue haze peak routes are the only new ones in there, but the topos are great and it's nice to have all the decent climbs in one book.
widewetandslippery
20/01/2011
9:12:56 AM
How much did the authors pay the FAs for bolts?
dalai
20/01/2011
10:21:37 AM
On 20/01/2011 bones wrote:
>bought it and like it. Should reinspire me to squeeze in some more daytrips.
>I'm pretty sure the blue haze peak routes are the only new ones in there,
>but the topos are great and it's nice to have all the decent climbs in
>one book.

I'd heard that the Black Hill bouldering had been documented - not sure if it made the final guide though...
simey
20/01/2011
10:31:50 AM
On 20/01/2011 widewetandslippery wrote:
>How much did the authors pay the FAs for bolts?

I think Glenn paid Mikl $9.53 for all his weird and wonderful gear placed in Melbourne crags.

The reason Glenn didn't include North Western Outcrop in the You Yangs is because he didn't want to pay the extra $$$ for the fixed ice screw that Mikl placed in It Came from Outer Melbourne. The same goes for Hanging Rock (where Mikl fixed an inertia reel seat belt on one of his routes). You wouldn't believe how much Mikl was going to charge for the fixed protection on that particular route.
OSP
20/01/2011
10:36:57 AM
Hi All,

Thanks for the great feedback on the guide. We are really pleased with it although as with all of our books we always think we can do better! We wanted to try a new format with this book - putting it in landscape so as to take advantage of the fact that many of the cliffs are shorter. The spiral bound is also a first for us. The benefits of this are that the topos can be seen completely flat - perfect in the case of the double page spread. The pages can also be flipped around. With regards to the durability of the spiral binding - time will tell and your feedback on this will be greatly appreciated. It is enough of a concern that we will be monitoring it - should the cons outweigh the pros, we have designed the layout as such that it can be stitch bound for the next edition if it fails to live up to expectation. We also wanted to bring onto the market a really decently priced guide that covers the selected climbs of many of the areas. At $29.95 the guide definately falls into the decently priced category - stitch bound would substantially push the RRP up. VCC guides are still great for comprehensive coverage and would think that this guide would be a companion to those guidebooks.

And in answer to some of the questions re Blue Haze Peak and any new routes....read away....
Falcons Lookout has been almost completely reworked. Some of the routes have been rewritten, and all of the bolts are now indicated on the topos. There are a few new minor new routes that have not appeared in print before. At Mt Beckworth there have been a couple of new routes added and many new descriptions. Bolt anchors have also been placed on top of the Main Wall. Half a dozen previously unrecorded (or new) routes have been added to Dog Rocks and Wabbit Wocks at Mt Alexander. Camels Hump has also gone through some major topo reworking. Again, a few previously unrecorded (or new) worthwhile additions have appeared, grades have been changed on a few routes and the topos are now much clearer. Black Hill has also undergone quite a few changes. Due to the efforts of people like Mark Rewi and Steven Wilson there are a bunch of new climbs and some of the older routes have been rebolted and rap anchors placed on top of a couple of tors. In the Cathedral Range there have been quite a few changes and additions. Since the fires Sugarloaf Peak has had a complete reworking of four or five climbs left of Cherrys Flake. This area has been climbed all over for nearly 60 years but the sometimes poor rock and long runouts on the few recorded routes made the climbing very serious at the grade. The route descriptions in previous guides were also flawed so climbers were always getting lost. The climbs now recorded are on generally much better rock, have good belays (a bolt was placed on Baghdad [10], to make the belay safer) and are generally well protected. South Jawbones has had a couple of routes added or straightened out and the topos reworked. Blue Haze Peak is a new cliff which has about a dozen new climbs recorded between grade 11 and 21. North Jawbones has also undergone lots of rewriting. Previously unrecorded (in print) routes include Cadence (18), Captains of Industry (18) and Travelling Home (13). On the Left Buttress, Jerry-Pot, Jerry-Pot Direct and Junglescope (for example) have been completely rewritten.

Thanks again and keep the feedback coming.

The team at OSP
simey
20/01/2011
10:51:01 AM
On 20/01/2011 OSP wrote:
>Falcons Lookout has been almost completely reworked...

I'm surprised you have used the name Falcons Lookout instead of Werribee Gorge. I think it is a bit confusing.

nmonteith
20/01/2011
10:59:01 AM
On 20/01/2011 simey wrote:
>I'm surprised you have used the name Falcons Lookout instead of Werribee
>Gorge. I think it is a bit confusing.

I agree. I had to really think twice before i realized what it was refering when i opened the guide for the first time!

My only other 'complaint' is the action photos. Too many tight cropped photos that didn't show the location of the route in full as well as too many shots making the crags look they are infested with hundreds of bumbly top-ropers! Needs less helmets and geeks and more glamour and sex in the next version. The photos reminded me of why i left Melbourne. :-(

Pat
20/01/2011
7:00:25 PM
Neil, you just sold it to me as I fit the demographic perfectly. (Waddles off to polish helmet)
kp
24/01/2011
9:41:09 AM
Nice looking guidebook, but i was very dissappointed with the accuracy of the content. It seems to me that lots of obvious projects have been written up as routes and 'assumed' to have been done. This is pretty uncool, as it is basically complete rubbish information presented as a fact.

Also many routes, particularly routes by Matt Brooks, have been severly downgraded. Stone Cold Bush @ Dog Rocks, once 28/29....now written up in your "guidebook" as 26??? wtf!

simey
24/01/2011
9:59:37 AM
On 24/01/2011 kp wrote:
>It seems to me that lots of obvious projects have been written up as routes and 'assumed' to have been done. This is pretty uncool, as it is basically complete rubbish information presented as a fact.

What routes are you referring to?

>Also many routes, particularly routes by Matt Brooks, have been severly downgraded. Stone Cold Bush @ Dog Rocks, once 28/29....now written up in your "guidebook" as 26??? wtf!

What is wrong with that? It is considered standard practice for guidebook editors to lop 2 or 3 grades from any Matty Brooks route.
kp
24/01/2011
10:14:46 AM
Finger crack left of inquisiition @ wabbit wocks
Face right of Little Bo Peep @dog rocks... a Toprope problem which is 23? yet i have never seen anyone do the moves??!!
Face right of McDogs @dog rocks
Route left of Satanic verses @camels

Im over all the pointless downgrading, which seems more to spite the FAist than anything else.

Edit: To me this guidebook is a bit of a joke. The VCC have covered all of it before (minus one slab at cathedrals)... and atleast they included the best crag in melbourne (The pullout @ mt alex).....

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 48
There are 48 messages in this topic.

 

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